Henny

with dr_Mat here... 8) When I had my chip written, the rollers would have been programmed for the wheel radius to make it all accurate, but the controller was damaged which is why I still don't know what power my engine puts out (when it's running... :roll: )

on a red car, I'd go with black or anthracite centers on 'em... will look lovely... 8)

olly elworthy, LJ, I'm running only slightly higher compression than normal... IIRC normal C/R is 8:1 and I'm running 8.5:1, but it's been so long since I've looked at the stats for the engine, I can't remember exactly... The compression ratio on mine was altered by a combination of a slight skim of the head (very slight) and the change of pistons and crank which also gave the 1940cc capacity... Just skimming the head will indeed alter the compression ratio, but you need to be damned careful that you don't mess up valve and even sparkplug clearances onto the pistons else the first time you turn it over will be the last... :| The best way IMHO is to go about it as a full rebuild and use different pistons and a re-bore to get the characteristics you want out of your engine... My bottom end was specc'd up by John Mitchell (16VG60) and has proven to be exceptionally strong, and delivers EXACTLY what John promised when I first approached him with the idea of the rebuild... :) Gman, At the stealth rolling road session I got 198.2 Lb/Ft torque, However, it's since turned out that I was a tooth out on the cam and had a boost leak! :oops: :crazyeyes: All I know is that it's much more torquey now (or at least, it was when it was in one piece... :roll: ) JimsG60 has been out in her both before and after I sorted the timing and boost leak and looked suitably scared by the difference in performance! :lol: 8) BHP Curve (line!) Torque curve (take notice what the reading is at the start of the curves ie, just above idle... ;) :lol: ) Making the KR engine more torquey is a tricky one, as 16V engines need to be revved to get the torque and power out of 'em... due to the design, they tend to be a bit lacking of torque low down in the revs... :| Depends on what you want to get out from your modifications as to which ones you do...

normal Corrado rear pads fit into the MKIV calipers fine dinkus, don't worry... (I'm running 'em in mine, and as Jim will testify, the brakes work well... ;) :lol: )

right, if you've got a de-cat pipe on there, you have 3 joints before the lambda which could be leaking... 1) head to manifold -Ugh, pray it's not this one... :| 2) Manifold to downpipe - Gasket costs about £6 from GSF and you can do this pretty easily either from above the engine if you've got long arms, or underneith it if you can get the front end of the car up enough to get easily underneith the car... 3) downpipe to cat-bypass - Should be 3x 13mm nuts and bolts with a triangular gasket (again about £6 from GSF)... this is the EASIEST to do as it's accessible if you just jack up one side of the car... 8) The other point it could be leaking from is the flexy joint on the downpipe... these do wear with time (especially if you've had a dead engine mount in the past) and fracture/rip slightly causing an exhaust leak... Check these out carefully before commiting yourself to trying to get the manifold off... ;) 8)

there are 2 air channeling pieces of plastic either side of the radiator beside the headlamps which funnel the air into the radiator. These are held on with several bolts (sorry, can't remember how many, it's 4 years since I owned a valver) you need to undo these and the rad will drop back into the engine bay and simply lift out...

Daz (G-man) is also quite an active member on this forum (and Dubforce.net too) so it wouldn't suprise me if he'll have seen this post by the time you call him! :lol: 8)

*looks at dented front wing and nods in agreement with Si B...* :oops:

same way I did it vwdubs only I also changed all the water pipes inc. the metal ones! Not cheap, but sodding effective! ;) :lol: 8)

is it for the end of the fuel tank breather pipe? [/random guess]

you called? :lol: Exhaust manifold to head gaskets? Good luck, they're an utter barstuard to do while the head is on the car... :| Parts would include new nuts (They're locking nuts and so are single use only) the gaskets, LOTS of plasters and some cool beers... also, have a backup plan just in case, as the studs have a nasty habbit of snapping instead of the nuts coming off leaving you almost certainly needing to take the head off to get 'em extracted... :| Are you 100% it's blowing from the head to manifold joint? the ones I've normally seen have blown from the manifold to downpipe joint which is a damned site easier to replace the gasket on... (I've got it down to sub 30 minutes to do 'em now!) I'm not trying to put you off doing this job, it is a job you can do at home, but be aware that it's very easy for it to not go to plan and cause lots of problems... Just ask Woody what happened when John took his exhaust manifold off... :|

..cubic inches help with torque too... the bigger the engine's capacity, the easier it is to pull nice big chunks of torque out of it... ;) I've upped the compression ratio and the capacity of my engine, as well as gas flowing ALL of the inlet and exhaust tracts to allow the gas (and the occasional bolt it would appear! :roll: ) in and out of the cylinders with as little obstruction as possible.. this gives me oooodles of torque from waaaaayyyy down low right up to redline and makes the car soooooo much fun to drive! :D 8)

told ya... as long as you phone 'em they're great, email em and don't expect to hear from 'em... :roll: :lol:

there will be stitching around the inside edge of the rim...

just flush it through with a hose pipe for a few minutes before you re-seal the sytem and fill it up... that'll clean it out enough to make sure that the G12+ goes in OK...

exactly... mine ARE ET30, you may need a 5mm spacer... as I said, I've got a spare one of these wheels if you need one... ;) (last one out of Scotford's warehouse!)

Cool article there Daz... 8)

Scotford are the official UK Borbet importers... 8) Phone 'em though, 'cos they're a bit pants with their email answering... ;) :lol: 8)

8) Try it without any and see what you think... I wouldn't go above 5mm to be honest, and you'll probably be able to get away with the cheap spacers if it's only for 5mm... 8) Make sure you contact Scotford though to get hold of the correct spiggot rings for these wheels to be fitted to a Corrado... they're only plastic and shouldn't cost much at all... 8)

same here Jim... it's great stuff, but ain't half a lot of work... :|

oops... not too horrific then... :)

yup, a short or your gauge is fooked...

that'd be your question about the number cast into the rim then would it?!? ;) :lol: Nice one... another member of the Borbet C owner's club... I've got a spare one of them for sale if you're after a 5th, almost brand new too... ;) :lol:

welcome to the forum Paul... I'm sure you'll fit in... we do have some other Ex-saxo owners here too... (don't we Jim! ;) ) Red Corrado at Biggar? That's GOTTA be AndyCowuk... :lol: 8)

nah, 16V head gaskets are a doddle to do and ain't that expensive either... At a guess you're looking at less than £150 if you do it yourself with a decent bodyshop checking the head for trueness and skimming lightly if needed... 8) I'd be tempted to go whole hog while you're in there though, and sling in new tappets, cam-chain + Belt/tensioner, oil pump and bottom end shells while it's in bits if you're doing it all yourself... you'll then have a nice practically new engine to start modding... 8) That's what I did when I blew the head gasket on my valver anyway... ;)