Henny

it'll be the thermal fuse on the resistor pack... This normally blows when the bearings in the fan motor are worn as it causes the fan to draw too much current and blows the thermal fuse... :| The fuse is available from Maplins or RS components for about 50p and can simply be soldered in to replace the old one, but you'll probably need a new fan motor to prevent this happening again (about £30 IIRC 8) ) See HERE for details on how to replace the fuse... 8)

A20 LEE, it's easy to wire throught to the boot lid... 8) ;) you need a bit of mains twin and earth cable, strip it back so you have one of the insulated cores only (either red or black, colour don't matter! ;) ) feed this from the hinge up through the tailgate with it open (remove the parcel shelf screw first! ;) ) after a bit of swearing and quite a few scraped knuckles you'll find the end gets up into the bit behind the lights... pull it around , and then tape on the wires you need to run through the lid and pull the first cable back through... 8) I'll give you that it isn't especially easy to do, but with the amount of time and effort you've put into your car so far, it'll be worth another 30mins of struggling.... 8) (I've ran 3 new power wires and a co-ax cable for a video feed into my boot lid... ;) ) I'd have said that using the wiper stalk to operate the boot was a BAD idea.... you'll be accidentally opening the boot at daft times all over the place and could end up doing the car some damage in the process.... :| I'm not sure how you'd manage to wire up the existing wiring to work with a solenoid anyway, as it would only work when the ignition was on anyway.... :|

Roger Blassberg, Golf MKII Diesels were fitted with an under engine guard which prevented large amounts of road crud getting onto the engine... just helps with keeping things nice and dry and clean.... 8)

the dizzy is identical to those found on a MKII 8v Golf GTI - It's a bosch unit. Odds are you'll find one in a scrap yard near you for not a lot and can nick the bit you need off it... 8)

there are 3 mounts. On on the front of the engine (the front engine mount) which is on a bracket which attaches to the gearbox via the bolts that hold the starter motor on and connects it to the front subframe On the gearbox at the rear (the gearbox mount) which is under a pair of brackets coming off the gearbox and attaches to the rear sub frame On the back of the engine (rear engine mount) which is under a big metal bracket bolted to the rear of the engine block and attaches to the rear subframe.

:D :D :D 8) 8) 8) :lol: :lol: :lol:

'ey Up! :D Wanna learn? you've come to the right place! :D 8)

there's an anti vibration damper on that drive shaft which has a habbit of breaking loose and making nasty knocking noises... :? Have a look here to see what I mean and possible solutions.... 8)

same with all coilovers King_prawn, stick 'em on the car with 'em set reasonbly high up towards the top of the thread, then drive the car a little bit to get it to settle, work out how much lower/higher you wanna go with it on each wheel, and adjust it accordingly.... 8)

it's ABS plastic...

it may be worth you trying to find a Golf Diesel in a scrap yard... They had them fitted as standard, and seeing as the Corrado subframes are almost identical, it won't take a lot to fit one.... 8) Dunno if this will protect the bit you need to though...

Big hammer?!? :wink: :roll: :lol:

I don't think it's actually that difficult, I just don't think anyone's done it yet... :? You'll definately need a gearbox speed sensor off a later car (to replace the speedo cable) and you'll have to put wires in to take the signal to the clocks... I'm pretty sure the early mechanical clocks have the speed sensor built into them to give the signal to the spoiler, so you'd need to connect those wires up to the new gearbox sender to get everything working again... I'm not sure what else you'll have to do though, I don't think I've ever actually seen a set of the early clocks in real life... :?

humm, I wonder how far off I am from having removed and refitted all of the parts on my Corrado now... :| Looking at that pic makes me think I can't be far off now! ;)

I used the same stuff in my Valver as I now use in my G60... VW's Quanta Silver oil... 8) It's good stuff... :)

Yup, count me too.... ;) :twisted:

no way... :shock: :shock: :shock: Ah Man, Eug, I am soooooo gutted for ya, that was a sweet motor... :( I can't believe that the insurance company are gonna write that off, it doesn't look enough for that... :| I hope the police catch him (or someone else gets the driver ;) )

CorradoWannabe, 8) Happy for ya mate... 8)

ALL bulbs on the clocks are accessible from the rear of the unit, so you don't need to open up the housing unless you want to mess with the colours of the illumination... ;) Even if you do want to open 'em up, there's no soldering involved as the gauges just pull off the main board and the LCDs are held on by T4 (I think) screws...

I'm pretty sure that VW has actually lowered the price of headlamps recently (to around £70 each) and so are the cheapest place at the moment... 8)

Awesome used to get all their badges from Trimsport who can't get these badges anymore.... Worth a try, just make sure you post back if they've got any... ;) 8)

shame that when it hit the wall it was SOOOOOO blatently fibreglass.... :roll: :(

the problem is that the groove that the top of the door sits in opens up and it looses it's grip on the door.... when you close the window the seal moves with the glass.... :| Also the moss and crud that collects on the seal wears it down and eventually wears it through to the metal which scratches your window costing you a damn site more than the seal would! :? :roll:

Campaign, how so? (not questioning your answer, just interested... 8) )

Very VERY nice, but you REALLY need to sort the light behind the LCD to make it visible... 8)