Henny

I'm sorry, I just have to point out that I LOVE that domain name! 8) A company with a sense of humour is a nice thing in this day and age... 8)

could do to be fair... like I say, you've got me stumped there... :?

euww.... that's what mine's just done (all fixed now though! 8) ) it's naaaasty to clean out... :? Anyway, 'cos it went that way around, it's unlikely that the water temp senders, thermostat, radiator or water pump have been contaminated by oil, or damaged by excess pressure in the waterways, although I'd still be tempted to change the water temp sender anyway just to confirm that it's not over-reading (just changed both on mine, just in case ;) ) A 10 degree change isn't that much to be honest... the concentration of antifreeze that was put back into the coolant system could add a few degrees onto the temps, and the gauge ain't exactly accurate anyway! ;) :roll: My old valver used to run at 90/100 all the time with oil temps at around 105 normally rising to around 115 in traffic, and that was bog standard and in great condition... 8) Something simple like that added with the summer weather, could well account for the change... I wouldn't be suprised if the heat hazes were there before and you're only noticing 'em now 'cos you're still a little paranoid about the engine since the gasket went... ;) 8) Check the simple things like the heat of the top hose compared with the bottom hose when warm to ensure that the thermostat is working properly, and check that the fan is working properly and is getting a full 12V with clean contacts on everything including all of the earths to the engine (including all of the smaller ones onto the head etc) as if may even be an electrical fault making the gauge over-read slghtly.... Personally, I'd keep a good eye on it and make sure that it never goes above about 110 water and 120 oil temps and that the oil and water levels are constant over a few weeks, and then I'd forget about it and just keep my normal paranoid eye on the warning lights and gauges waiting for the next thing to go wrong! ;) :roll: :lol: 8) Good luck with it mate, hope it's all OK... 8)

sounds like how I did mine... I have no idea then... :?

Did you have the ignition turned on while you bled 'em? The ABS needs to be powered while bleeding the brakes else you'll get a spongey pedal... :? I didn't know this so wasn't too impressed with my new Brembos until I found out about it and then nearly put myself through my windscreen! :lol: :oops: :mrgreen:

yup, it's repairable... I'd lay odds on it having come off internally so it'll just need clipping back together again... 8) If not, then it's pretty easy to swap the whole unit for one out of a second hand set of clocks so that you don't loose your milage reading... 8) Put the steering column to it's lowest setting, Undo the 4 screws around the dash clock trim (2 at top, 2 behind covers in the bottom corners) and carefully remove the trim. Undo the 2 screws either side of the clocks - NOT the 2 that are inside the black plastic surround, the 2 through the white plastic casing! Pull the top of the clocks towards you and stick your hand down the back to unclip the wiring connector. Remove the clocks. Open the clocks by undoing the screw on either side of them. Remove the clear plastic face. The dials will now pull straight off the circuit board (they're only held on by pins which pull straight out) Remove the needles on the fuel/temp gauges (they should just pull straight upwards and off on these 2 gauges) and then undo the 2 screws which hold the face onto the rear plastic housing. You should now be able to see the actual mechanism inside. There's a lever in there which has probably come out of it's guide, clip it back in (you'll see what I mean when you get to this stage! ;) ) If it looks well mangled in there at this point, you can insert a new/second hand pair of gauges from any Corrado as they are identical... just use the face and needles off your clocks... 8) Now put it all back together again! ;) :lol: :mrgreen:

knock sensor should take 20 mins tops... Lambda's a bit more of a git 'cos it's on the top of the cat so can be a real sod to get at... :| Dunno how long to do one, as I've never had to do one with the car in one piece 'cos I changed mine when the engine was out... ;) 8)

was that the first time or have you had it done again sinse the rebuild?? I can get access to corner weight gauges remember, if you fancy getting it done a bit cheaper next time?? first time, but I've had it checked and tweaked for free since the chip was done 'cos the guy wanted to have a drive and see what it was I'd built and he'd MOT'd and set the suspension up on! ;) :lol: 8) I may well take you up on the offer soon though, 'cos I'm thinking of changing the suspension set up to something a little different... ;) 8)

who you gonna get to map it?

It's only needed on the 2.0 16Vs... don't panic! 8) :D

how did the gasket blow? Ie. oil into water, water into oil, compression into oil / water / both / outside world, etc etc etc.... There's so many different ways a head gasket can blow that there could be many different and valid answers to this question.... :? Hell, it could be something as simple as changing the water temp sender... :roll: :lol: 8) give us some details and we'll see what comes out.... 8) :mrgreen:

With you ALL the way there matey! :D I reckon that the labour on my car so far would have cost WELL over £4K if I hadn't have done it myself... :? :crazyeyes:

I'd bet that the insurance will write that off... my first Corrado had less damage to the body than that about 4.5 years ago and they wrote that off as soon as they saw it... :( I wish I'd have repaired it now rather than going thru the insurance and then scrapping it, as the parts to fix it weren't that expensive, it was the "ah! it's an insurance job" labour rates which wrote it off... :( :cry:

To be fair, that's a good price IMHO... I paid nearly £300 to have my car corner weighted and that was purely labour costs at a local specialist garage... :| £165 for that little lot's not bad at all... 8)

you can tell by the last 2 letters.... Around here X999XEH would be Stoke 'cos of the EH at the end... EH = Stoke KC = Liverpool They're about the only 2 I can remember after a rather good session at the pub tonight.... ;) :lol: 8)

I may be able to provide a supplier to make parts to allow the 16v clocks work accurately with the 7K redline dials... the only thing is that you'd be revving OFF the clocks quite regularly during "spirited" driving... ;) :?

I'm with Kongo on this one... check the outlet pipe for oil, anything more than a light mist isn't a good sign.... :|

A cat 2 immobiliser can be had (fitted) for around £90... Expect to pay about £200 for a basic cat 1 alarm/immobiliser rising up to silly money depending on what options it has... 8) For reference, my mate's just had a Selca Cat1 alarm with total closure fitted at a local place for £250 all in... 8) And, yes, they get me for immobiliser required on my insurance too... they even specified it on my 1.4 Astra Merit 'cos I'd changed from a Golf GTI to it so it was on the same poilicy... :roll:

Here we go again! ;) :lol: 8)

the wheel sensors are for the ABS... :roll: typical VAG not knowing their arse from their elbow... :mad: Speedo sender is on the gearbox and is driven off the ring gear on the Diff....

I'm leaving mine for 3000 miles until I start using sinta silver... I may treat it around then too depending on how I feel... Odds are I'll leave it until around 10K 'til I treat it... 8)

I like my painted gearbox...

DO NOT put slick 50 into a new engine! It'll never bed in properly and will continue to burn oil if you do use an additive before the engine is fully bedded in... :| New/rebuilt engines should be run on mineral oil (non-synthetic) during the running in period, and then on your preferred semi or fully synthetic oil there after. VAG do not recommend the use of any oil treatments in any of their engines, although I have used Slick50 in my MKI 16V before with no problems...

you could, of course, always just buy the correct 17mm allen socket from somewhere like Halfords for around £5... :roll: :lol:

the only way I could see of doing it would be to use shims to raise or lower the spring seats... :? Anyone else out there know otherwise?!? :?