Henny

fuel filter is under the right hand side sill, just before the rear wheel arch. It's not a difficult job to change, however you may find that the bracket that holds it on has rusted badly over time and may also need replacing... (not expensive from VW)

get the oil from GSF, save yourself some money, AND they'll let you know which oil it is you need.... ;) :lol:

I'll have a look at my moonroof tonight when I pop up to my parents to do some work on the 'ssat and see if I can see anything obvious that'd cause your problem... 8)

strange... the mechanism should have a surround around the edges so that any water which leaks in past the seal (I know it's not really a seal, but I can't think what else to call it! ;) ) lands on the surround and not directly onto the interior blind... It sounds to me like you may have a damaged mechanism or a part missing? :|

matt paint, rust, dents and oil leaks pretty much sum up Rat Look... ;)

yup, but that's the way that the car owning world is going at the moment... it's not just CGTI that's suffering... we all know about CCGB, but there's many other clubs for many other makes that are suffering the same fate... :( I can't think of a single older club that's managed to embrace Forums and the internet and be progressive enough to keep the membership numbers that they used to have pre-internet as well as keep their friendly local meetings going... :(

rat look? hmmm.... *goes off for a closer look at J-DUB....* :twisted:

my 1940cc G60 engine which is currently in H-YYU used quite a bit of oil for her first 1200 miles... she's now bedded in properly and uses practically none.... (she just eats head gaskets instead.... :roll: :oops: :lol: )

also could be the CO pot.... mine failed completely on H-YYU and meant that she was flooding with fuel while trying to start her... swapped it for a spare one and Voila! fixed... 8) Normal causes of G60 overfuelling are: Blue temp sensor Lambda sensor CO pot Incorrect timing Dodgy map (unlikely if it's just started to do it, or if it's been fine before) Low power from battery/alternator (caused limp home rich map to kick in on ECU) Knackered/leaky injectors Knock sensor (unlikely, but can affect fuelling by messing up timing) Faulty FPR (again, unlikely, but it can happen) Think that's about the complete list anyway... 8)

I used a passat estate roof in J-DUB and a saloon passat one in H-YYU... neither has any problems with leaks and both used the complete Passat mechanism sliding cover and all... sounds to me like there's a problem with the drains on the roof you've fitted... there shouldn't be any puddles of water sitting on the mechanism, even in heavy rain as that's what the 4 drains are there for!

I'm seriously thinking about stripping out my G60 and making her into much more of a motorsport themed car while keeping her external looks pretty much as they currently are... Looking to lose a lot of excess weight from the interior to up the BHP/Tonne ratio in a positive way.... ;) Not seen many 'rados with the interior stripped out yet, so it's definately not a sheep-ish way of thinking anyway.... ;) Money no object? Carbon race seat, full FIAA roll cage, STACK dash instruments, plumbed in fire extinguisher and nothing else inside the car... oh, and maybe polycarbonate windows.... :)

I've been a member pretty much all the time since 1994 when I got my first Golf GTI, and I've watched it as they've battled to keep it afloat with the incoming wave of smaller, more localised web clubs and Forums threatening to swamp it and finally send it under.... It'll be a real shame if it does go under, but I can't see a way they're going to keep it afloat and still justify the membership costs... :( The curborough sprint days would be the biggest thing I'd miss... Always been a great day out, although there was a markedly noticable lack of people and cars at this years event... :(

I've had a MKI Golf for the last 12 years..... admittedly it's been stood in roughly the same place for the last 8 of them and it's been stripped to a bare shell, but I'd agree that they are a piece of Pee to work on.... 8) Still not quite as much fun as my G60 though, even with the 16V engine that I dropped into it... ;)

I know your pain.... still not got my Corrado running... still not even worked out 100% WTF is wrong with it... :(

yup... undertrays out, steering to highest adjustment (just makes life a little easier!) then undo the 2 screws either side of the fuse box and it kinda tilts forwards on a pivot and lifts up and out...

kevHaywire, I agree about the bonnet vent thing as you've pointed it out, however, I think I need to clarify my post as it appears to be contradictory to what you said... 8) In the original post the question was about using a sprinter vent in the wing to pull cold air into an induction kit... this is gonna make F all difference. What Kev's on about is venting at the REAR of the bonnet to extract heat from the rear of the engine bay... this will make a difference as Kev says, but (again as he points out) looks crap... :lol:

could also be something as simple as a dodgy connection on the back of the fuse box.... I've found a couple of multiplugs just staying in place due to the wiring holding them in roughly the correct place before now on some VWs which caused all sorts of intermittent problems... make sure all the plugs are firmly inserted into the back of the box... ;)

I've got a phenoloic gasket on my G60 (thanks to Steve's advice and him mentioning that he'd got one sat around waiting to fit to his G60) and it really does drop the temp of the inlet manifold by quite a bit... Heat reflective tape on the underside of the inlet manifold, and wrapping the downpipe/exhaust manifold with exhaust tape drops the engine bay temps quite a bit too... Mocal oil cooler and uprated radiator fan (got a pacet one on my G60) will drop the temps a little more, as will the use of water-wetter in the coolant... To be honest, on a MKI golf, there's little point in a wing/bonnet vent... you've got this lovely BIG flat grill on the front of the car that's gonna ram air into the engine bay as you're driving... a little vent is gonna make sod all difference unless you're putting some very clever ducting and the like behind it... ;) The Cryo coolant kit is not a bad idea, but it's better to ensure that your basic setup is sound before fitting one. Sods law will dictate that you run out of CO2 when hammering it and end up overheating your engine due to the basic cooling system not being up to scratch! :lol:

having fitted one to my G60 and having had all sorts of entertainment getting the sodding thing to work with it after fitting the new head, I agree 100000% with daz's post above... get the engine running spot on, then add the vernier into the equation and get it set up by someone who knows what they're doing... It allowed Wayne to get mine from being 240bhp upto the max of 252 we got out of her on the rollers, so definately worth getting one if you've got a hotter cam in your engine.... 8)

if you get one of the good HID conversion kits for H4 bulbs from Ebay, they come with a cap on the bulb tip to make them work better with normal reflector style headlamps.... I've not used or bought any yet, so I can't swear to that, but I may well treat H-YYU to a set if I really like the kit that I'll be fitting to the 'rat shortly.... 8)

the temp is just the colour rating, you can select which temp you want when you buy most aftermarket kits.... your uprated headlamp loom would still be needed, although the kit I've bought comes with it's own relay'd loom to make sure the Ballast boxes get full battery voltage... The H4 bulbs are a little more expensive as they're twin element... think the place I got mine from wanted another £3.50 for 'em! :lol:

yup, already flicked the nice metal switch inside 'em ready for when the bulbs arrive next week... Will make life a doddle when I pop over to France to see my sister... no more farting about with those stick on thingies... 8) Got new LED sidelight bulbs, Xenon main beams (55% brighter) and the HIDs going in as well as clear indicators with silver bulbs just to clean up the lighting on the front before it gets dark early and I end up driving both to and from work with my lights on... 8)

actually Andi, I'm doing the conversion 'cos I bought the wrong headlamps for my Passat and ended up getting a set of crystal clear projector lamps which are for HID bulbs only instead of as well as... my GCSE German failed me there... :roll: :oops: :lol:

bugger, got mixed up with block numbers.... :oops: S2 pistons WON'T work in the 9A/6A block as mrbeige points out...

hence why I went for the 6000K ones! ;) :lol: