Henny

Welcome to the Forum Adam... Looks like you've bought yourself a rather interesting car... 8)

That'll be H100VW (Gavin) then... 8)

yup, there was a 2.0 8V... Engine types were: 1.8 16V (KR) 1.8 G60 (PG) 2.0 16V (9A) 2.9 VR6 (ABV) 2.0 8V (dunno! I've never seen one!) And now all sorts of weird and wacky concoctions such as 1940 G60, 1.8 20VTurbos, 2.1 16V are starting to appear too! :wink: :lol:

Mine has over 250,000 miles on it and was still going pretty well until the crank bolt sheared off... :roll: It's been well cared for over most of it's life, which has helped it, but abuse from the last owner has caused most of the problems I've had with it. :mad: The engine itself is a solid lump, there's not much difference to the 8V GTI engine. The only thing to make sure is that the supercharger has been well maintained by a reputable company... If in doubt, knock £500 off the asking price for a rebuild from either Pitstop or G-Werks... :wink:

IIRC there's 53 splines on a VW corrado steering boss... 8) I'll leave this thread open for a bit yet so people can either confirm or correct this... 8)

I saw a nice dark grey/silver 'rado at the Chelford Roundabout heading towards Macclesfield this morning at about 8:40. Didn't get a great look at it as it was on the other side of the roundabout from me, but looked very smart. Also Red G60 H plate looking very standard sat just outside Congleton town center last night... Nice! 8) I've been seeing loads of 'rados over the last week or so... Has there been a sudden buying spree of 'rados in the SE cheshire area or something?!? :wink:

sounds to me like you've got a rotten earth cable to your chassis/engine/gearbox... Check the thick cable that has the battery -ve terminal on it, it should go from the battery to the chassis by the battery tray and then on to the gearbox. If it is nasty looking at any point, then your starter (and all of your engine sensors!) aren't getting a decent earth, so starting will be difficult and you may find that you have some random running problems too... :? This is pointed out by the fact that it'll bump start easily, if it were a fuel pump, it'd be a swine to start at any time... 8)

yeah, and try my little G60 when it's back on the road... I think a whole new gear selection AND an LSD are gonna be needed... :? :lol:

MKII 16V GTIs are great fun... Revvy engines, plenty of power and cheap to fix 'cos they're just golfs at the end of the day, so there's loads in scrap yards... 8) The 8Vs aren't bad, but are lower powered than the 16Vs and coming from a VR6, you'll really notice the difference! :? I seriously looked at a few before I decided to go REALLY cheap and get an Astra when I bought my house a couple of years ago... I only kept it for a year, and then got my G60. :wink:

Hi Soz, It's a lovely looking 'rado you've got there... Almost identical to my first one too... 8) I'd go with what the rest of the people here seem to have said, subtly lower the car, but keep hold of the original springs and shocks. At the end of the day, it's a simple modification to return to normal again, and will increase your enjoyment of driving your car, as long as you get a decent setup... 8) Welcome to the forum... :)

Hang on in there Jim... I had to wait the best part of 3 years between my first Corrado and the one I've got now due to insurance problems... It'll be worth it when you finally do get one again... 8)

There are 3 mounts, if you stand in front of your corrado with your knees touching the front number plate: Front mount is directly under your nose! Gearbox (rear) mount is to your right at the back of the engine bay Rear engine mount is to your left at the back of the engine bay. The front mounts are the ones that usually let go first, followed by the gearbox and then rear mounts. None of them (on an 4Cyl car at least) are particularly bad to do, just a bit fiddly with access to them... Dunno about how hard they are to do on a VR6, as I've never worked on one... Hope this helps... 8)

the rubber O rings that sit in the peddle go soggy after a few years... you can pick 'em up from VAG for only a couple of quid, they take about 2 mins to fit, and you'll not have this problem again for another 5 or 6 years... 8) Guess how I know? :roll: :lol:

the top hose onto the rad on all cars flexes as the engine moves, repairing a split on one is neigh on impossible... Replacement is definately the way to go with it... Also, before you start shelling out cash to replace this hose, check that your engine mounts are all OK... A split top hose is often an indication that you've got a duff engine mount. :? Do a search for "engine mount" here and you'll find loads of threads on how to test them... 8) Hope this helps.

erm... :offtopic1: :nono: Cool that you did, but please try to keep this one on topic until exturbo2003 gets somewhere near a solution... Thanks...

The fuel level sender works on a standard set by VDO, so your old one should still be fine to use with whatever new pump you need to get... 8)

In that case, it's gotta be a broken water temp gauge... or that your water temp really isn't going over 70deg... :? Check that the resistance between the 2 terminals on the black water temp sender (the one that does the gauge) changes with the temp of the water... Also, when the car is hot, turn off the ignition, swap the wiring from the black sender onto the blue one, then turn on the ignition (BUT DON'T START THE ENGINE!) and see if the gauge works then... These water sensors are known for going faulty, so it wouldn't suprise me if it's the black sensor having broken... :roll:

Be careful with the GSF ones, they may not be the original spec multilayer metal ones... A lot of people bodge the headgaskets by putting a standard 8V Golf one on which won't handle the pressure created by the supercharger... For the extra £10, I'd go VAG every time... Oooh, look, I have both times too! :wink: :roll: :lol:

and just as importantly, what offset?!?

£73 is for the full kit though isn't it? :?

yeah.. it's a multi layered metal one, it costs about £35 from VAG for just the gasket... 8)

Genuine ones are also metal... (I know, I've done 2 on mine now... :roll: )

Ah! You're Daaahn Sowff... £10's probably not far wrong in that case... :wink: :lol: /northern monkey

most tyre fitters will fit tyres that you've bought elsewhere for you... Don't be suprised if you don't get a receipt and they want cash to fit them... :wink: if you pay more than £5 per corner, you've been robbed... :wink: :lol:

yup, that was my instant reaction too... Also that it's got a straight red (IE no tracer colour or looming tape) is odd and points to an aftermarket fitment gauge sender... 8)