Henny

Oooh, I like that... Keeps the originality, yet freshens the rear up... Nice... :D

Yup, dead right... Any oil that Porsche dealers have decided NOT to use anymore due to oil pressure problems isn't going anywhere near my engine... I used to run my 16V MKI Golf on magnatec and always thought that I may have had an oil pump problem... Since changing to Synta silver, it never had a problem again... :? :shock:

The rubber water hoses don't like having oil in them as it eats them... :shock: :( You'll probably find that some of your water pipes will start to burst, so keep an eye out for that... As long as you noticed it pretty quickly, there was still oil in the engine, you weren't thrashing the nuts off it when it went, and there was no "mayo" effect in the oil on the dipstick, you'll probably be OK with the rest of the engine... Make sure that you flush out the radiator and entire cooling system (including heater matrix!) as much as you possibly can and you may find that you get away with it... :)

Have you got an aftermarket steering wheel on the car? Could have something to do with it if you have... 8)

You star! :D I knew that rieger were doing an ABS RS style front bumper but no-one knew what it was called or where to get one from! :roll: I'd appreiciate it if you could find that info out for me.... :D 8) I thought that a couple of their other bumpers were also half bumpers too... Must have got my wires crossed somewhere along the line... :oops: The engine is gonna be good... I don't think that there was as much damage caused when the bolt sheared as I feared, but I'm gonna rebuild it anyway! :lol: 2litres of balanced G60 fun with some other little "tweaks" along the way! It's gonna be fun! :lol: 8) Interesting wheels? Plenty out there, and having chatted to you I can bet they'll be something just that little bit different to be really interesting! :D 8)

The Rieger front bumpers aren't all full bumpers, so be aware of this when you look at them. Their R-RS that I wanted is only the bottom half of the bumper and has to be bonded onto the original which you have to cut along the line of the bottom of the fogs/indicators :shock: Don't fancy that much! :? It's a hard decision on a car like yours... I really prefer the original lines of the 'rado, but a tastefully 'kitted car like yours also has started to appeal to me recently... :) I think that I'd go for the euro style option if, by that, you mean low, smooth and clean original lines with a killer paint job and wheels... 8) If you find any ABS RS style bumpers, let me know please! I'm getting desperate for one for my project! :roll: :lol: Good luck with your decision... 8)

Looks lovely... I really like those wheels, they compliment the smooth look really well... :D I've always preferred the earlier bonnet, makes the front of the car seem lower and slightly squarer and more agressive IMHO... 8) The no side repeaters is a nice touch too, makes the side look much less cluttered... :) With those mods I'd estimate between 180 and 190 BHP, although if it's a nice loose engine, you could be up near 200... :D Time to put her on a rolling road and find out! :lol:

Oooh, bummer... :( Hope it's not as bad as you think it is at the moment.... Main thing is that you're OK... :) Fingers crossed that she's fixable...

If you re-route the air pipes it can be done... It'll run like a bag'o'$#!te, but it'll run... The ECU will be over-fueling and an 8V non G60 Corrado feels slower than a 1litre fiesta! I know of a couple of people who have had to do this bodge to get home after blowing up their chargers trying to be clever at shows :? :roll: but it's not recommended though...

dubster82that's all in the future for me... at the moment I just want a nice, quick, standardish looking G60 engine in my 'rado so that she's back on the road as my daily driver... Then I can sell the Golf Driver I've just bought and get on with my REAL project car which is my MKI golf GTI before my parents scrap it 'cos it's been sat in their garage for nearly 4 years! :? :shock: :lol: I agree that a 20V, G60 supercharged, 2 litre would be one hell of a combination and probably break your neck with the torque if you could get the grip, but I can't afford to go down that route at the moment with either the time, or the money... :( ah, maybe next year when I get bored! :lol: :wink:

I agree, but you're more likely to blow the oil into the water system and run the engine dry of oil if you're running it like this. The oil pressure is WAY higher than the water pressure so the oil will enter the water system and end up messing up pipework, radiator and expansion tank and cap... Euro car parts do the cooler (genuine!) for about £25... I change them whenever I change my car now during the first service after a rather large bill caused by a dodgy one... :roll: Good luck! 8)

Metallic rattles at around 2500rpm tends to be a heat shield rattling on the exhaust on a G60 'rado... I've got the mother of all jubilee clips around my downpipe's heatshield 'cos the rattle finally got so far on my nerves that I was gonna rip the shield off until I realised I could get a large jubilee clip around it and stop the rattle once and for all! :roll: :lol: There's another post about this somewhere that someone mentions a possible dead catalytic convertor causing this if you've also got a loss of power... I dunno about that, 'cos I've not got a cat, but check your heatshields... 8)

:lol: :lol: :lol: I thought you'd appreciate the sarcasm in that one! :roll: :lol: :wink:

I've been waiting about 14 weeks now... My car's not on the road at the moment, so I'm not that fussed really... Bit annoying that a part can take that long to come though, you'd be stuffed if you OWNED a lupo GTI that someone nicked the wipers off! :? :lol:

Ker-ching.... :lol: My wallet recently became quite fat, so I'm not going the cheap route, however I'm also not just throwing money in every direction too! I've a definate plan, and after just talking and finalising the plan with John (16VG60) we're going ahead with the project with John supplying the internals for the block and doing the bottom end work, and myself re-assembling the rest and modding all the bits I wanna do elsewhere :) 8) This should be a really interesting, torquey engine which will be well matched and pretty much factory reliable... 8) Keep watching folks... This could take a while, but will be worth the wait... 8)

Beavis Thanks for that note and your concern. I know that the TSR 2 litre I mentioned is based around the van engine and, IMHO, is more suited to be a diesel engine than a free revving G60 due to the stroke length,( :shaking: ) that's why I'm not going down that route although I have spoken to a couple of people with this conversion and they're happy with it, I just feel it isn't the right option for me... 8) I know that there are plenty of other ways of getting more power outta my engine while I'm rebuilding her, and believe me when I say that your 1.9 pistons are well up on the possiblity list if anything doesn't quite go to plan with the 2litre :D however I tend to agree with the words of the good old yanks "there ain't no substitute for cubic inches..." :lol: so if I can get as close to 2000ccs as possible while staying reliable, I will! :) Valver whose MKI was that? That's gotta be one mentally fast car, my MKI 16V was fast, and I've driven a 2litre and a G60 MKI and they were faster, but a 2L G60 MKI has gotta be an eye opener :shock: I'd be really interested in talking to them to get their opinions on the conversion that's been done... :wink:

There's a great engine place in Burslem who I've used for lots of engine/head work while I was a mechanic... He did the valve guides/seats on my KR 16V and IIRC it came to about £100 all in... :) You do have to take him the head only, so you'll need to strip it yourself... DAVE RUSHTON (Engines) Ltd, Unit 2 Maplehurst Close, Hot Lane Industrial Estate, Burslem, Stoke on Trent ST6 2EJ Tel: \ Fax +44 (0)1782 822353 http://www.daverushton.co.uk/ Be warned that he can be a miserable sod at times, but his work more than makes up for it! :? :lol:

I've got a funny feeling that the part is Japanese and the instructions are bad german so when you try to translate them it doesn't work 'cos it's like bad Jap instructions in english... :roll: Has anyone managed to get one of these things to fit yet?!? :?

Phew, not just me then! :lol:

The block and parts will probably be worked on by 16VG60 (John) as he did a lovely job on my flowed head and has so far said all of the correct things I needed to hear about the job, we've just got to work out a few logistics this evening before we get going with it... Who told you it was being built down south? I've mentioned this to very few people who'd know people here... I'm trying to keep most of the details reasonably quiet (he says on a public forum! :lol: ) until it becomes a reality as I've read too many posts that turn out to be nothing but hot air and don't want my plans to go the same way... 8) Stealth used to advertise a PG based 2 litre, and still will do it, but it ain't cheap! The other couple of companies I've spoken to are based in Germany... There used to be a local company that did a couple of 2litre G60s as well (which is where I got the idea from) but they've folded now and I'm struggling to get info on how they did it... I think they used the TSR style conversion using the tall block and long stroke crank. Not my preffered way of doing it... :roll: :shaking: Not as stressful as when the crank bolt sheared off after 3 days of having my new head fitted :( :roll: It should be pretty cool, I enjoy building engines, and as I have a golf to drive around in while the C is off the road, there's no hurry to get her finished... 8) I could do, but I want to do something slightly different to the regular tuning companies who are all doing the 20V conversions at the moment. I also prefer the supercharger route of forced induction and want to keep the car relatively standard looking... If I could work out a way of keeping the original front bumper AND putting in a front mount intercooler I would, but I just don't think that there's enough space behind the grill to do it and personally I don't like the modified number plate way of doing it... :roll: :lol:

Let me know how you get on, as mine is just sat in my garage gathering dust! :roll: :lol:

Check that your wheel nuts are tight ASAP! I had this problem on my mothers Astra when I'd just started to drive... If there's one thing I don't want to ever happen again it's being overtaken by one of the wheels off the car you are driving! :shock:

DM Ta mate! :D 8VG60 Secret? That'd be telling! What good's a secret if you tell everybody on a Forum?!? Seeing as how I'm building the thing, guess I'm gonna know what's in it! :lol: Banana Man I'd love to take you up on that offer, but there's no way in hell that I can get my car rebuilt in that time with that wonderful thing called "running in time"! Also 'cos of work commitments she's not likely to be ready until late November/early December... (gotta go to Tenerife for an outside broadcast for a week and a bit soon! It's a hard life! :roll: :lol: ) Next season when she's had the chip and pulley and is all bedded in and working 100% with correct fueling etc you're on! :) Beavis You're right about the overbore to 85.9mm and needing balls of steel to do that... but you forgot about the "new crank"... I never said what it was, or what it's throw was so all your calculations are out the window until I reveal (If I ever decide to! :lol:) what has been put in the bottom end :D Nice try though 8) I know of at least 3 tuning places that do a 2litre conversion to the original block, and all of them have had examples running for a good while with no problems... 8) I also said that I was gonna throw some money at my 'rado, so don't think "within the box" for what I'm doing! (Clarion TV systems ain't cheap for a start! :lol: ) everyone else keep watching! :D

A dis-connected/blocked vaccuum hose to dash clocks will cause this problem. 8) Check all hoses and see what happens...

Yup, as Skye says, the blue one is ECU, the black one does the gauge... The cable/sensor that you describe sounds very much like the knock sensor if it bolts onto the front of the block just to the left (from the front!) of the oil filter head. Time to replace it I feel... I'm just doing mine as the engine gets rebuilt so I don't know any tips to help yet... :roll: :lol: