Henny

Jammy jammy jammy get... :roll: :lol: (do I get a prize for guessing it right - like a spare ticket to go over with you, Eric? :lol: )

big_chris1981, undo the 3 screws and remove the headlamp, it's a damn site easier than trying to do it in situe! :lol: ;)

CorradoDriver, nice one... has it sorted the problem out? 8)

damn, Think I want to swap my black leather for grey now... :roll: Looks excellent! 8)

Eh? there's an echo from Oz here! :lol: (good to see you on here Gav... 8) )

yup.... 8)

broke the headlight switch? maybe why your sidelights don't work... ;) :lol: Fogs will only come on if the sidelights are on... I'd be checking the fuses carefully to see if something odd's going on there which would stop your sidelights from working, thus stopping the fogs from ever coming on... ;)

:oops: got halfords ones on at the moment :oops: I hasten to add, not through choice, they were the only ones I could get to prove that they weren't the problem in the first place... the genuine ones I was using will be going back on along with these plugs... 8)

I don't rate EBC pads at all to be honest.... their green stuff pads I found to be too hard, not warm up enough and generally not be very good for road use (never tried 'em on a track).... Aren't the red stuff pads intended for track use mainly? You'll probably find that they don't work very well at all on the road if I'm right about that... :|

just picked up a set of Beru plugs from GSF this morning... They're the Polo G40 ones and came in at a whopping £2.43 each to me! :lol: Just got to change the fuel pump, filter, plugs, dizzy cap and rotor arm and see if that's gonna get her running on 4 cylinders again... 8)

yeah, but they'll make a better seal over time as things loosen up slightly... Why else do you reckon that VW engines are at their best at around 50 to 70K miles! That's when they're bedded in properly! :lol:

Toad, it'll need to wear in the bores and other moving parts (mainly the bores and piston rings though) - using a synthetic oil stops the piston rings bedding into the cylinders properly meaning that it never properly beds in creating a good seal on the cylinders giving you an engine that will always burn some oil and won't give you the maximum compression it should... ;) I ALWAYS bed my engines in with Morris mineral oil (10W40) for the first 5000 miles, changing the oil at 100, 250, 500, 1000, 3000 and 5000 miles and then using Quantum Silver oil from then on every 4000 miles... 8)

No problems getting 250+ down through my modded ratio G60/VR6 hybrid box... The Quaife ATB Diff and Goodyear Eagle GSD3s handle it well... 8) 1st's a bit pointless to be honest though, I only tend to use it for hill starts normally unless I'm trying to prove a point from a set of traffic lights/junction... ;)

if it's only 8 weeks old, and it's not working on the lower speed (even when you wire it straight to the battery and earth) take it back, jump up and down a lot and get a new one out of them... ;)

check the switch out with a multimeter, work out the colour codes, rewire properly... ;) :lol: I'll bet that you're trying to power the passenger seat of the dash lighting, hence the blown fuses! :lol:

wish I had a job where "due to unforseen circumstances" I'd end up being the owner of a sweet motor like this... :roll: :lol:

Yesterday: Got towed home by the AA (again :roll: :oops: ) after (I think) the fuel pump finally waved the white flag, groaned and died...

From what I'm understanding from your post, you've removed the multiplug from the temp sensor on the radiator and put a piece of wire between the RED wire and one of the other two wires... on one of the wires, the fan does nothing (middle one on the connector), on the other, the fan spins normally? if the fast fan works from the same power supply that the slow fan DOESN'T work from, you have a broken resistor pack inside the fan motor... You have 2 options: 1) you can either buy a new fan (expensive but correct way of fixing the problem) or: 2) you can bodge it by bridging the wiring so that the fan comes on flat out when it hits the low temp threshold on the switch (which is how my aftermarket fan is wired up! ;) ) basically you need to connect the 2 other wires from the multiplug (NOT the red one!)... As far as I'm aware, there's no way to open the fan up to change the resistor pack... :(

it's easier to convert the car not the system as the hangers on the car just bolt on, where the ones on the exhaust are welded... ;) Your problem is probably going to be getting hold of the hangers you need... ;)

pump for an early Corrado G60 is £90ish from VW... I know 'cos I've one in the boot of my car at the moment waiting for me to get time to fit it! :lol: Can't help tell you which relay it is though, sorry....

there are some differences internally on the door, (extra strengthening) but AFAIK, they should be interchangable... 8)

have you added 12V onto the switch wire to see if the bulb in the switch is OK? Could be something as simple as the bulb has gone and is shorting the ciruit which is why it blows the fuse... ;)

that sounds like one of the gears which control the air direction flaps has broken so you're never blowing air through the heater matrix... It'll work when the fans aren't on, but as soon as the fans come on, the airflow moves the flap and blocks the heater matrix... Had this on mine recently until I nicked a cog off a MKII golf to sort it out... 8)

can you hear the pump running when you try to lock the car? Could be as simple as a split pipe under the dash or in the hinge area of the car (probably the passenger side if that's where the first fault occurred... ;) )

Looks sweet... but then I would say that! :lol: 8)