Henny

Supercharged, no, 'cos I wrote one of 'em off... :( (although I do feel slightly happier now that the third party's insurance has admitted liability so I know it wasn't my fault... ;) 8) )

you need a SERIOUSLY hot soldering iron and a very fast soldering technique to be able to solder onto those... (I can normally do it without blowing/melting the LED, but it's not easy... ;) )

CoxyLaaaaaaaad!, yes, 3 channel like the later models, but without the EDL traction control crap that is the bit that tends to break in the main pump causing expensive repair bills... ;) Front Left, Front Right and REARS can be pulsed independently depending on which wheel has locked up... Supercharged, The (none ABS) brakes on H-YYU feel much better than the ABS enabled brakes on J-DUB too, so you're not alone in that "feeling" thing... 8)

Phil K, yeah, I'm 100% sure it's still in the staff carpark... The dashboard is currently sat in my garage and the ignition wiring is on my desk in front of me being modified as I type! :lol:

feck, other than the wheels, that could be mine from that angle... :| 8)

reading back through this thread again, you've basically narrowed the fault down to 4 things. (excluding the posibility of a dodgy new component) 1) your immobiliser 2) the ECU 3) the ECU relay 4) dodgy wiring... I'm assuming that you've checked that your coil has power. Have you tried your ecu in another car to eliminate that from the equation? That'd be the first thing that I'd try... I'd then swap across an ECU relay to make sure that's working properly... after that it's a case of removing the imobiliser and then as a final resort start buzzing wires through to find the problem... Good luck mate... 8)

looks like an immobiliser problem then... :|

that's a Golf G60 one (same as in my car)... The Rallye one is the same core size, but the inlet (on the left as you rightly say) is longer and more squared off which makes clearance a bit too tight... although that one appears to have had the towing eye and bracket removed to make a bit more clearance... 8)

Cool, that's probably ruled out the switch then... 8) It could still be a dead hall sender in the dizzy then... otherwise, I'd go with a dead imobiliser no matter what the little lights are showing... :|

also check the eject button hasn't jammed?

don't know mate... I get my mate to do it for me.... :oops: :lol:

lukeage, I seriously think it's just to gauge a measure of how much they're gonna rip you off and how much you know that they're gonna rip you off... :|

go and see a local MOT station who will have a gas analyser... it'll only take 5 mins to set the emissions and tickover up, and that should make it drive completely differently... 8)

Avoid if it's a new diesel Ford... the engines may produce nice power and be economical, but, MAN, do they ever rattle and clatter like a bag of old bolts attached to a train... :|

if you get a remap, they tend to read your existing chip into their PC and then modify the map that's then on the laptop... the final map is then burnt back onto a new chip which is the one that's then fitted to your car... My chip's map is based on an SNS chip that I bought so I have the no-lag code, but my map is spot on for the engine in my car... 8)

it'll need re-setting up for idle and on the CO pot with a proper exhaust gas meter thingy now you have a properly working ECU... ;)

belt is under £15 for the 2.0 16V, however the tensioner is somewhat more expensive at £32! (prices from GSF) It should take about an hour for a pro to change a cambelt on a valver... you may want to consider changing the powersteering belt at the same time seeing as they have to take it off to do the cambelt anyway... ;) Good luck! 8)

phone VAG's head office and give them the chassis number, they'll tell you if it's a genuine Storm or not once and for all... 8) Sorry to hear about your loss though... hope you get it all sorted out with the minimum of hassle... 8)

I've just removed the G60 badge from my otherwise de-badged car... makes for a much cleaner look IMHO... I think the debadged front grill makes the car look much more agressive when it's viewed through someones rear view mirrors... ;)

Critical_Mass, have a word with DubWhizz over on Dubforce.net... He's just had his car repainted and it's a TOP quality job... they guy who did it is just setting up in business so is doing work cheaper than normal to get his name known around the VW circles to drum up business... 8)

Lagunas have terrible problems with electrics and the interiors kinda fall apart (like most french cars) with age, so expect not a lot of build quality with a sub 3K french car... Focii seem to be doing a bit better age wise, and I don't know of any serious problems with them to be honest... they're just a bit bland and common... :| My best mate has just picked up an R plate 1.9TDI passat estate with 90K miles, full service history (first 60K main dealer, then a specialist) one years MOT and 6 months tax for £2300... That's a whole shed load of car for not a lot of money... 8) That's what I'd go for if I was after one, or possibly even a SEAT or Skoda of the VAG era... 8)

ask the seller for the part number, post that up and someone will confirm... ;)

VR box = G60 box with a different final drive ratio, 2nd gear ratio and bell housing... The internals are, otherwise, identical, so the G60 box is just as strong as a VR box... 8) If you're that worried about strength, go for a MKIV/V box as they're 3 shaft design rather than the original Corrados 2 shaft. However, they're heavier and will need custom driveshafts and the rear subframe modifying to make it fit... As it is, I'm aiming to be near to 300bhp in the not too distant future and am pretty sure the only thing that'll need doing transmission wise is all new CV joints as the old ones have 165K miles on 'em and are getting a little loose! ;) :lol: FYI, I'm running a 260K mile G60 box which has been reconditioned by Vince at Stealth with all new bearings and seals and had a Quaife LSD and VR6 2nd gear fitted too... 8) I am considering changing 5th to be a bit longer as motorway cruising is a little loud at the moment... If I was going to do my rebuild again, I'd probably go for a 20VT 6 speed box, with a lower final drive ratio and an LSD (either Quaife or Peloquin) with custom bits mentioned before... ;) 8)

I visited the same guy to have a look at a "mint" Late pearl green G60... EVERY panel needed work due to dents or scratches, the FULL SERVICE history wasn't even close to being half a service history, it had dodgy tyres on it but, to be fair, it did drive beautifully and had been a CCGB member's car at some point (still had sticker in the window!) I left after he told me he wasn't willing to take offers, but would have the paintwork sorted out for me if I paid him an extra £200... It needed a full respray, not a quick £200 blow over... :| AVOID this guy would be my advice... ;)

yeah, you'll need an LC1 (sorry, got the wrong name in my last post) for $199 including a Bosch wideband probe... That'll give you everything you need for your narrowband ECU you're currently running AND allow you to run a wideband in the future... I'm seriously considering getting one of these shortly when I've saved up a little... 8)