Henny

to be fair, most of the aromatic organic compounds ARE bad for you... The Pine smell is a classic carcinogen. Most of the vapours (organic or not) given off by glues and other such things will kill you or at least not do you much good if inhaled... Hell, there was a study which concluded that the safest way of filling your car with Diesel was from about 10 yards away so you didn't inhale any fumes... Petrol users don't laugh - for Super unleaded it was 20 yards due to the extra Benzine (another carcinogen!) in it to get the extra octane ratings.... :| Humans are VERY frail in the scheme of things, there's so much that'll harm us or kill us out there, and that's before you count other people... :|

can't fault that reasoning R1-Jay, 8) I'd always err on the side of safety/precaution too, especially when it's got anything to do with my missus... 8)

*puts hand up to add another vote for removal*

you may find that the cable to the probe is a little on the long side compared with the original, it does come with cable ties to tie up the excess though! ;) 8)

Cool, it's one that a lot of people forget about... 8) The two man way shouldn't be any more effective, but it may be worth a go as that's the only way I do it due to not having a one man kit... :lol:

yup, that's pretty much nail and head there Cai... 8)

it's the one with 3 wires to the Lambda and an earth wire that goes from the 4 pin plug to a ring terminal which you connect to the bracket next to the plug.

not a bad idea actually, they've done the same on the M6 near Sandbach a couple of times after some particularly nasty accidents in the past and it's kept the traffic moving preventing the usual dozy driver stuck in queue after accident type accidents... 8) It is VERY weird being told to turn around on a motorway and drive the wrong way down the hard shoulder though! :lol:

IIRC New levers are available from GSF pretty cheaply 'cos they're the same as the ones on Golfs... (Late MKII GTI for early Corrados, MKIII GTI for Late Corrados... )

system pressurises itself, you just need to fill it with no air-locks upto the line on the expansion tank. I normally fill the system via the radiator top hose into the block (ie with it removed from the radiator) until the coolant comes out of the pipe, reconnect it to the radiator and then top up into the expansion tank. Run the car for a few minutes with the expansion tank cap off, squeezing the top hose to make sure there's still coolant in there. Turn off the engine, top up, replace the cap and then run for a 10 mile run. Let the whole thing cool back down (overnight's good) and then check and top up in the morning. That should give you a full, un-air-locked coolant system. 8)

did you have the car jacked up when you tried to bleed the brakes? The load compensator would have been letting almost no fluid through to the rear brakes if it was which makes bleeding the brakes bloody awkward to say the least. Sounds to me like there's still some air in the rear brake pipes...

OK, wiper is supposed to work by pushing the stalk away as you say. The stalks have been known to break though and stop working, so it could be simply a dead switch, but I doubt it 'cos you're getting water spraying. IIRC there's a relay in the fuse box which controls the rear wiper, and it's possible that's died stopping the motor from working. The sliding button is for the MFA on the dashboard. there's 2 different settings (1 and 2) and the zero resets the corresponding one. The button on the end of the stalk changes which reading is displayed on the clock between time, elapsed travel time, average speed, traveled distance, MPG, oil temp and outside temp. Setting one resets after the engine has been off for 2 hours, setting 2 only resets by using the switch, or when one of the either the elapsed time or traveled distance readings has reached its maximum reading figure.

ah, the 1.8 16V is a doddle to work on and is reasonably bomb proof... If the pump has gone weak, they're not expensive to do and a full set of bottom end shells won't cost more than about £40 + an hours labour while they're in there to change it... 8)

'lo and Welcome to The Forum... 8) Looks nice in your sig pic, would be good to see some more though... 8)

Oh, I could well be wrong on that one then... I must say it's about 3 years since I tried to buy some from there, so it's very possible that they sell them now... 8) oh, and the numbers in your post above look right to me...

GSF don't sell the oil temp/pressure switches as far as I know... :|

yup.

Red Corrado with black eyebrow spoiler heading into Alderley Edge from the M56 this morning.... didn't look like they were hanging around either... ;) Anyone here?

Lippy, Don't tempt me... ;) :lol:

:iamwithstupid: What Neil G60, said... ;) A decent quality belt of the correct length will eliminate virtually all of the slippage when using a standard setup. The toothed belt system just manages to eliminate ALL slippage! :lol: As to where to look next, dunno mate. Could possibly be that the P/S belt is slipping too? Without seeing it, it's difficult to identify this kinda problem over T'internet... :|

there's a thin brown wire with a white trace on it that'll be up near the cylinder head/fuel system somewhere. It should be connected to a brass looking bolt which is actually a temp sensor. It's this which controls the fan run-on via a relay. Check that this wire hasn't come loose and isn't touching anything metal as this will leave the fan on permanently. Also there IS a relay for the fan run on which is worth checking. It's either bolted to the front of the expansion tank (if you have ABS) or the wiring is behind the glovebox (if you don't have ABS) where the ABS brain would normally hide. Good luck!

With the 2 bits shown in your pics, your dipstick was about an inch too low in the sump meaning that you've been running about 1.5 to 2 litres short on oil - hence the low oil pressure warning! DO NOT RUN THIS ENGINE UNTIL YOU'VE SORTED THE OIL LEVEL! :crazyeyes: Fitting the dipstick guide is (as Riley says) just simply putting it onto the tube and pushing down hard on it... I've found that adding a little oil to the top of the guide tube helps in the past, and also make sure that the new plastic bit is quite warm too as it's less likely to break again. Frankly, it's a crap design and I reckon it's been the death of quite a few engines over the years... :roll:

yup, I'll confirm that it DOES NOT have a valve in it. potatonet, have you changed the heater matrix? If not then it may be worth your while bypassing it (connect the pipes that feed through the bulkhead together) to see if that's anything to do with your problem if you're certain that you've changed everything else...

try the trafford park one, they had a couple left in stock when I got mine... ;)

PM SteveMac, he gave me the part number...