Henny

Found it at last.... CLICKY! 8)

any chance of a pic of: A) the car they're to be fitted to, and B) the stone dials... (I can't get Fred Flintstone's car outta my head :lol: ) to help make up our minds?

Riley just junk the whole carbon cannister setup... much easier to do... ;) Daz tends to do this as soon as he looks at a G60 these days! :lol:

rather cool idea to be honest... 8)

ooh, I stand corrected... 8) For some reason I thought that the Passat and Polo ones were vertical not horizontal... :|

I've got one AKTIV one and one none-AKTIV one (don't ask, I don't know why either) Both are grey and at least one is a little tatty.... I'll have a look tonight and take a couple of photos to post up here tomorrow... 8)

Mamps, Welcome to the Forum... Good to hear that you've decided to give it a go yourself.... they're really not as difficult to work on as people assume... 8) Get a head gasket set from GSF for your valver... they're as good as the VW ones and are a damn site cheaper! The head gasket set includes the valve seals, head gasket, rocker cover gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, inlet manifold gasket and the rubber O rings for the water flanges which come off the head - Basically every gasket and O ring you'll need to do the job... 8) *edit - damn, just noticed there was a second page of this thread :oops: :lol: *

Riley, you'd get a vacuum leak which would make the car run like crap when not at idle, possibly giving you intermittent power delivery problems... sound familiar?!? :|

potatonet, why? my 8V g60 is producing around 250bhp and idles smooth as standard (if not better... ) 8) 8V G60 will produce better low down torque than the 16V version, although with a better 8V head (flowed, ported, bigger valves) you should be able to get some serious power out of the 8V... 8) Going the 8V route also rocks in that it doesn't look any different from standard from the outside... ;) I'd advise having a word with G-man as he does 83mm pistons which are specc'd for a 1900 G60 and also having a chat with Race Power Motorsport in Kent... They're shit-hot with the G60 engine and can build you a monster, or at least spec you up one and supply you with the parts to build your own... 8)

JT-G60, yup, standard bumper... the lower grill (the one just above the chin spoiler) should stop most road crap from hitting the cooler directly with enough force to burst it... mine's been there for about 20K miles so far (admittedly on 2 cars now :roll: ) and is fine with no signs of damage to it... 8) Anyone's welcome to have a look around my car on the 27th... 8)

what colour AKTIV cover? I think I've got an early grey passenger side one at home... I'll check tonight if that's what you're after...

I thought all the logos on the switches were the wrong way up on the Passat or Polo switches... :?

Holy thread ressurection batman... :crazyeyes: Almost 32 months between posts! :|

yup, as far as anti-road salt/corrosion treatments go, it's a good one and well worth doing if you value your car... 8)

Lets clear some of this up shall we... If your car has been listed with SORN, then you are NOT allowed to keep your car on the road at all, insured or not. It MUST be kept off the public highway. It doesn't need insuring or taxing, just the SORN certificate. You CAN NOT tax a vehicle with out a current MOT and a valid insurance document. If your car is SORN registered, then that will not affect your ability to tax your vehicle as it's just the same as taxing your car as your old tax disk runs out... (trust me, I have 3 cars which are SORN declaired! ;) )

nope, I think my Cobra Coupe is still just about in the lead...

As I understand it, the typical way of doing a compound charged engine is to have the turbo and the supercharger plumbed in with seperate air feeds, (although normally from the same air box/filter) feeding into a boost pressure or RPM controled valve system. This way you're not forcing air through either the turbo or the supercharger at any point in the rev range/ boost provision. Below a certain number of revs the turbo is simply venting allowing it to spin up freely. At this point the supercharger is operating normally and is providing the boost to the engine giving plenty of low down power... At a certain boost level/RPM limit a valve operates which should give a seemless transition in boost pressure (if set up properly!) from the supercharger (which then vents) to the turbo providing the boost instead. The supercharger normally has a magnetic or centrifugal clutch operated pulley and around this point this starts slipping/disengages to prevent spinning the supercharger too fast and damaging it. Over the boost/RPM threshold the turbo is then providing all of the boost with the superchargers clutched pulley slipping enough to keep it from spinning too fast. On the way back down the revs, the valve will swap back to the supercharger to provide the boost as the clutch re-engages drive to the charger meaning that, again, there's no sudden change in boost pressure or any points where no boost is available. If it sounds complicated in theory, try actually setting one of these things up... definately not an easy task! :lol:

GPC?

1inch by 15 feet long! :lol:

Yup! I've got mine where my intercooler used to be with the air scoop that used to feed the intercooler firing nice cold air onto it... 8)

'Lo and Welcome... 8)

I rebuilt (fully) my KR engine (that Aposegil's mate's just bought from me) for under £500 about 5 years ago... That included getting the head rebuilt too... 8)

I got mine from Demon Tweeks... 8) CLICKY

minor body and interior tweaks, quality suspension upgrades and serious engine power upgrades are the way my thinking goes these days... 8)

exhaust wrap knocked about 10 degrees off the temps in my G60's engine bay... :| It's well worth doing... 8)