Henny

The corrado was built VERY well balanced - hence why it was always known as a brilliantly handling car. Lobbing coilovers on and setting them up by corner weighting can tweak that balance enough to make a significant difference, especially when compared to a set that have just been lobbed on and set by eye. Just about ALL race cars (Rally, road or track) use some form of corner weighting to get the balance correct. Not many domestic/kwikfit style garages do it any more, but you'll find that quite a few specialists still do it... 8)

if you raise the front left ride height, you move the center of gravity of the car and so more weight will go onto the rear and right side of the car. Think of it this way, when you jack up the whole front of the car, you don't lift 50% of the weight of the car do you? the weight moves backwards onto the rear wheels so you're actually only supporting a smaller percentage of the weight of the car on the jacks.

quickest way of clocking a Corrado is to simply change the clocks for a set with lower milage on 'em... Obviously that's getting harder to do as they get rarer, but you get the idea... ;) They're just a simple chip on the back of the clocks which you can re-write with some simple equipment and a laptop. There is some skill in doing it without messing up the MFA and some of the other settings, but there's plenty of people out there (and a few on this very forum) who can do it. Mostly it's just ensuring that you don't put too much voltage in to the chip and make sure you're operating with properly isolated with no static electricity risks... I'm going to get the clocks on J-DUB put right (someone's conveniently swapped the clocks for a set with around 130K miles less than the car's done) when I do the new engine conversion on her and have had a chat with a couple of people who can do it (properly) for me for under £60...

Corner weighting involves putting the car onto 4 sets of scales (one under each wheel!) and adjusting the height of the coil-over springs to give an equal weight left/right on the suspension and a certain ratio of the weight front/back. It is really only possible on adjustable height coil-over suspension. I had J-DUB done when I fitted my supersport coilovers and it totally transformed the handling. I had it done with a half full tank and with someone the same weight as me sat in the drivers seat. Seeing as I wanted it setup for how I normally drive her, and most of my milage (21K per year!) was on my own with around half a tank of fuel, that kinda made sense to me! :lol: Basically, the reason you do it is to make the car handle as well as it possibly can. If the car is (or as near as damn it) perfectly balanced meaning that cornering is the same going either way and it's very predictable. When mine was done, it actually looked BETTER than before. The Corrado is pretty well designed in terms of where the heavy components are, so it looked balanced and sat almost level after it was setup. As to where to get it done, have a look around for some race prep specialists... I'm lucky in that I have 2 within 300yards of my house, both of whom can do corner weighting... 8)

Followed a red Corrado (with no badges) this morning at 9am from Chelford Roundabout towards Alderly Edge... A7UBO Anyone here? I've not seen that car around here before...

saysomestuff, better now? :lol:

yeah, The parts ARE different for LHD and RHD... the pipes come out of the matrix and through the bulkhead at a different angle. :roll:

Nice... what mods have you done? That dip at 5500rpm looks like it could do with sorting though... I think this is normally the sign that the hall sender's not 100% happy... :?

Interesting, I've just got some interesting info off Coolingmist's (and also Aquamists) website before I saw your post... 8) Quote from aquamist.com Where do I place the water jet? Normally immediately after the intercooler unless the intercooler suffers from heat soaking such as the type that is fitted on top of the engine (Subaru, GTI-R, Toyota Celica and etc). Surely if the jet is placed before the intercooler it will have better cooling effects? Not quite true. If the air entering the intercooler is pre-cooled, the cooling efficiency of the intercooler will drop due to the smaller temperature differentials between the ambient air and induction air within the intercooler core. Secondly, there is also a possibility that the hot air from the turbo may cause unnecessary vaporisation of the injected water thus taking up precious volume that was intended for the charge air. Should the water jet be facing the direction of the in-coming air? Two possible locations, if the jet is to be installed along an induction pipe, point it at 90 degrees to the direction of the air flow. Position the jet furthest away form the throttle body as this will enable better mixing and intercooling properties. If the jet is installed at the end-tank of the intercooler, point the jet in such a way that it has the greatest cavity to accommodate the 90 degree spray pattern. Quote from coolingmist.com Standard Injector Mounting Depending on your vehicle the installation can be different. The first thing you need to do is decide where to mount them. For a dual stage we recommend that the larger injector be mounted furthest from the engine and the smaller one be mounted close to the engine. If you have an intercooler you can mount your injector prior to the intercooler or just after. We recommend to install the injector after the MAF sensor of your car (if you have one). If you have to mount before make sure you have it far away so it can evaporate completely. You can drill a hole to install the injector or tap the injector. We recommend that you install the injector AFTER the turbo or supercharger unless you have no other choice.

yeah, don't like the thought of blowing up one of my G-laders... I've blown up just about every other part of an engine in the past and don't want to blow up something that's getting as rare as the G60! :oops: :lol: I hadn't thought about Pitstop, I'll go and have a nosey... ;)

ah, your car will be LHD then seeing as you're in Holland? In that case, I have no idea, sorry... :|

markmcie, and there's the big question... There's some debate (mainly started by me :oops: ) as to where the best point on a G60 is to inject the water... Just about everyone agrees AFTER the intercooler to stop water condensing in there, but after there it gets a little confused. I thought (although I don't know that's part of the point of this thread, to gather info) that the best place would be just before the CO pot so that the ECU is aware of the sudden drop in inlet temps and can adjust the fuelling accordingly preventing lean running. Other people have said to insert it just before the throttle body with others injecting directly into the inlet manifold to avoid water vapour being sent back down the boost return and into the G-Lader... :? I'm still reading up on a load of info I've dug out, but the general concensus so far is "trial and error" to find the best place... :|

'lo and welcome to The Forum... 8)

it's also good for lighting BBQs especially when you add in some Nitromethane... ;) :twisted: :onfire:

has it got a 'B' suffix on the part number? If it has, then it's got the valves built in... 8) If it's for a VR6 then it should have the valves in it anyway though... 8)

Hammerite is oil based, so if you EVER spill any oil or petrol in the engine bay, or work on the engine with greasy hands, it'll take the paint off the engine... :| Alloy wheel paint is good, although that's normally silver. void the "ultra high temp" paint sprays (with a 4 branch manifold on the spray can) 'cos they're crap as VEEDUBBED, says... I used the hi-temp paint on engine laquer, which, as the name implies, is designed for painting onto engines! :lol: It's a brush on paint, but you can get a VERY good finish with it as it's nice and thick and takes ages to set so it sags neatly into a nice coat rather than leaving brushmarks everywhere... It's oil and temp resistant but it does smell horrible for the first couple of minutes after you first warm the engine up... :pukeright: :lol:

g-man :lol: Supercharged, yup, I'd go with that one too, deffo the cheaper way of doing it as you'll only need a gasket (about £3) and a little bit of labour and it'll look original too if you ever get an arse of a mechanic who tries to tell you that you must have a cat... It's quite a common misconception that you MUST have a cat to pass an MOT after August '92... You don't, it just means that you are subject to the stricter UK emission tests (as g-man points out) which most cars with Lambda probes will pass anyway without the cat... 8)

dunno Campaign, I spotted the charger on the floor to the right of the car from that photo and could work out that's the alternator sat on top of the engine... ...I think I need to get out more, or at least get a car that I've not dismantled more times than I care to remember... :oops: :lol:

you WILL get away with it though, the emissions on the car will be low enough for it to pass the test if the engine is healthy without the need for a cat... My somewhat non-standard G60 will still pass the emissions test for a car with cat even though it's kicking out more than 70BHP over standard and hasn't got a cat! :lol:

it's under an hours job to swap the cat over... the worst bit is getting the old lambda probe out. You'll get away without having a cat for the MOT, so just bung in a £50 decat pipe and rest assured that you'll never have to change it again... ;)

yeah, the hall sender is basically a VERY thin copper wire coiled up tightly. The copper oxidises over time or can fracture due to vibrations from the engine meaning that once it warms up due to the current going through it and the fact it's part of an engine, it starts to give either false readings or (more likely) missing readings and therefore not giving the signal to fire the sparkplugs causing crap running... Also the magnet that the sensor detects looses it's magnetism over time which doesn't help things either... Dizzy's in the post in the next day or so... 8)

With the VR 2nd gear, you hit 3rd at around 55 which is smack bang in the power band for 3rd gear... 0-50 seems faster with the VR 2nd gear, I dunno if it is or not to be honest, but not having to change at around 45 with the standard 2nd gear I'd have thought would make it quicker. 1st is the same ratio anyway, but is part of the same shaft as second which is why you have to change both when you want the VR6 second cog. 0-80 is DEFINATELY quicker as 3rd gear is hit mid torque/power curve (changing up at just over 50mph) which makes 3rd fly past upto 80... 8) I changed my 2nd gear 'cos I always felt it was a weak ratio in the standard G60 box, not just for the 0-60 improvement as you need to practically redline the engine to hit 60 which I don't like doing. The standard 2nd always seemed stupidly short and I tended to hit 3rd at around 40mph which was too slow a speed to hit the main chunk of the power curve... after I fitted the engine I built to my modified gearbox, I probably could have gotten away with leaving the ratios as they were 'cos the torque curve flattens off from about 2K anyway so that wouldn't have been a problem anymore, but while the box was in bits, it seemed daft not to do it for the price of the parts... 8)

Feck me, they're a bit bigger! 8)

he's talking through his arse... De-cat pipes are available for about £50 from quite a few manufacturers and they're as easy to fit as fitting another cat... After market down-pipes are also available, but why you'd need one when the cat is held on to the downpipe by 3x M8 nuts and bolts with a nice gasket in between is beyond me... :roll: Which version of the Corrado do you have, and what makes you think that it needs a new cat? normally it's just the heat shield that makes it rattle which can be sorted with a large jubilee clip... ;)

stanbates, he's off to Oz... ;)