Henny

the fuel breather MUST NOT be pressurised or subjected to vacuum, so connecting it anywhere other than to an air filter (be it an aftermarket one as Kev suggests, or to the airbox as Daz suggests) is not a good idea... If you can smell petrol, then you have an explosive gas floating around in your engine bay... not a good idea... :|

Stop that Darren, you little tempter you... ;) :lol:

start by using the search bukers, There's a full on "how to" on this posted a while back by someone else... ;) Welcome to The Forum by the way... 8)

do you have a pic of what one should look like? These sound very similar to the normal seat runner sliders and if one of those can be used, they're a couple of quid each from VW... 8)

I'm with Daz here... New Beetle's your best bet as lots of 'em came with steelies and are now having big aftermarket alloys fitted so the steelies are somewhat more available than any others... ;)

oh, how about a Hebmuller VW Beetle Convertable? Only a handful ever built and only one known left in existence today...

G-Werks does 'em for £115 according to their website... 8)

vr6storm, can't say I'm sad to see any of those disappear into the pages of history to be honest!

yup, I have a certain soft spot for K-Jet too... I like mechanical things, they have a certain elegance to their solutions that electronic sensors just don't quite have...

damn, knew I missed out a major plus point for K-Jet... :oops: Anything else I missed Kev? 8) Ah, is that all they did Phil? I never knew that it was basically that simple a change... 8)

GazzaG60, where are those figures from? I didn't think a KR head flowed that much... :|

K-Jetronic was only fitted to the 1.8 16V flavour of the Corrado (KR engine), but it found its way into all sorts of other cars, from the MKI Golf GTI through some of the Audis and even the Porsche 924! A modified version (K-E Jetronic) is found on the later 16V Corrados, but this works in a slightly different way and I've no experience with them so can't really comment on them... K-Jetronic is a purely mechanical fuel injection system despite the "tronic" part of the name suggesting electronic bits... It is also known as a CIS system (Constant Injection System) as ALL of the injectors are always spraying fuel onto the back of the valves even if they're shut. The metering head (the heart of the system) contains a large movable flap which all of the air going into the engine is fed through. The air lifts the flap inside a cone shaped area which opens a valve inside the metering head allowing fuel through to the injectors. The higher the flap is lifted inside the cone, the more fuel gets to the injectors and thus into the engine. The shape of the cone is critical to the application of the injection system... a 16V metering head's cone is completely different in shape to that of an 8V engines as the fuelling profile needs to be different for each design of engine... There were several additions to the basic system to allow for cold starting - a 5th electrically opened injector, a throttle bypass valve to allow a "choke" setting/higher tickover when cold, and a warm up fuel pressure regulator to allow the fuelling to be adjusted according to temperature. It's as basic as injection systems get, but is still pretty good and generally more reliable and more efficient than a carburettor setup, normally giving similar (if not better) power/MPG figures than a carburettor setup can... 8)

yeah, but the problem with the x-flow is getting a custom made inlet manifold and exhaust manifold and then getting the whole thing setup to look factory and give anywhere near factory reliability/repeatability... ;)

colourblind, yeah, it'll drop the charger rebuild period from around 60K miles down to around 35 to 40K instead, and it's worth getting the charger checked out BEFORE fitting any smaller pulley just so you don't make it do a good impersonation of a grenade... :| The rest of the engine will hardly show any difference in wear, but it's worth changing the oil a little more frequently (around 5K miles) and, as Yan says, sticking on a better oil cooler... Definately THE modification to start with on a G60... 8)

Personally, I'd speak to Darren at G-werks about a new belt, pulley and SNS chip rather than getting the Jabba one... G-werks/SNS is now generally accepted to be a better setup for your engine and give a better power delivery for your money too... ;) 8) (they're cheaper too at £185 according to their website... http://www.g-werks.com 8) ) They really are almost as simple as they sound... change the pulley, change the pulley belt for a slightly shorter one (don't use the adaptor, they're crap) and then the tricky (well, relatively anyway) bit is to get the ECU out, open it up and swap the chip over... 8)

GazzaG60, nope, nowhere near what either the Eurospec or G-werks head can do...

Having just spoken to Darren, Please be aware that the graph I have posted above is running with STANDARD VALVE SIZES! The only thing making the difference between the standard and the modified flow rates is the CNC porting! Daz says that there's another 15% improvement with the larger valves they can fit! He's going to post up some data later (hopefully with some pics and some other interesting comparisons ;) ) which should show just how good these heads are...

so will you be fitting the MKIV brake compensator too to make sure all the biases (is that the correct word, or is it biasi or biasus?!? :lol: ) stay matched then? I know all about getting the rears to lock due to uprated fronts and no ABS, that's how I flat spotted the rear tyres during my accident in J-DUB! :oops: I agree that the rear A2/A3 brakes are crap, I was just wondering if putting bigger rears on wasn't going to cause as many problems with braking bias as it'll sort out the with the rear brakes? :? p.s. these are genuine questions 'cos I'm interested, not me being arsey and thinking I'm right... I'm genuinely not sure about any problems this may/may not cause 8)

here's a pic I've had from Daz showing the difference in gas flow between a standard cylinder and one of the machined cylinders... *edit - these graphs are all with standard valve sizes, just the CNC machining differences! *

why bother with larger rear brakes when you still have the automatic brake bias compensator on there? I'd have thought that you're just likely to mess up the brake bias causing the rears to lock up under heavy braking if you upsize the rear disks without adjusting the rear bias accurately... :|

saysomestuff, 'kinell, that's a good set of figures for a N/A lump... 8)

these heads that Darren's doing ain't exactly cheap, but looking at the data from the flow tests, they're well worth the cash... 8)

I think that I've decided that my first stage fogger will be in the main pipe to the throttle body as close to the intercooler as I can get it and will be the larger of the 2 foggers. The second stage will either be just before the throttle body, or in the inlet manifold itself...

samm_cvr6, he's got a 2litre 16V G60 engine... ;)

bix, ah, OK, if Bilal says it'll be OK then it should be as he's the guy to ask... 8)