Henny

At Bruntingthorpe I finally managed to get J-DUB's oil temp over 120 with my mocal, but that was doing flat out sprints up the 2 mile straight and shed loads of 0-60 sprints at the time... Get a Mocal oil cooler on it or change 5th for a longer gear ratio... Oh, and lose the lead wellys or you'll lose your licence!!! :lol:

balanced to 8700rpm?!? Woah... that's gonna be a bit of fun! 8) :notworthy:

samg60, snap... Genuine VAG pump in my engine too... 8)

Glad to see it's all working now... 8)

Right, All of the firmware which makes the MFAs work on are engine specific, IE a G60's MFA won't work properly in a 16V etc, you'll be able to bodge the actual speedo, rev counter, temp and fuel gauges to work though... VR6 clocks will only work properly in VR6s 'cos the rev counter is set for 6 cylinders not 4! 1.8 16V clocks To convert between the early mechanical and the late electronic ones needs a gearbox speed sender and some wiring to that and also for the spoiler. It's not massively difficult, but will probably hurt your brain a little while you get your head around the wiring! No 1.8 16V came with red needles, they all had white ones. G60 clocks 4 types of clocks here, mechanical, early digital, middle digital and late digital. Late ones have red needles, early and middle ones have white needles. Early digital clocks have markings upto 12gallons on the fuel gauge, middle and late ones have upto 15gallons. Mechanical to digital swaps are the same as for the 1.8 16V, some wiring changes and gearbox speed sensor to be fitted. Middle digital clocks are a straight swap for late digital clocks. Early ones will work after a swap, but the scale on the fuel gauge will be incorrect. VR6 clocks AFAIK there's only one type of clocks used in VR6s which have the red needles. 2.0 8V and 16V AFAIK these both use the same type of clocks, although I can't guarantee this as I've never had either. Both use red needles.

Is that the one that goes forwards to meet the back of the bumper where the spoiler attaches and that has a pipe looped through it for the Power Steering? It's often known as (ready for this? ;) ) the radiator support cross member! :lol: They are known for going rusty and nasty looking, but that tends to only be the bit by the bumper which isn't actually needed for much. On J-DUB, I simply removed the rusty bit... 8) Anyway, to remove it you need to remove the bumper and spoiler, front engine mount and front subframe. Undo the shed load of bolts that hold on the lower front spoiler and remove the spoiler. undo the 4 17mm headed bolts which hold the bumper on (they're under the car under the chassis legs) - DO NOT undo the 13mm headed bolt to the side of the 17mm bolts yet or the engine will drop on your head! - And remove the bumper (after disconnecting the fogs and indicators!) Undo the nut on the top of the front engine mount and support the engine so it can't drop. Undo the jubilee clips which hold the rubber P/S pipes onto the metal pipe that goes through the panel you want to remove, take the pipes off and drain the P/S fluid. Support the front cross member and undo the 13mm headed bolts (one either side) this will allow the cross member to drop down and out. IIRC there's then another 13mm headed bolt that holds the panel you want to replace in on either side. Obviously when you drop this down, the radiator is just gonna be hanging there, so you may want to remove it earlier in the work, or you could support it with some rope/string via the slam panel while you replace the support cross member... ;) NOTE - This was written off the top of my head having done this a few times - I may have missed a step/bolt or two out but I'm pretty sure it's not far off... Refitting is pretty much the reverse of stripping it down except that you need to put P/S fluid back in to the system again! ;) :lol: Good luck, and hope this helps... 8)

yup, that's what I want too... 8)

:iamwithstupid: Yup, I agree with the above... 8)

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha *THUD!* *Picks self off floor* Paul? Have you ever been in a TT? No offence mate, but you just wouldn't suit a TT, and as for practical, have you ever looked inside the boot of one? I don't know what you buy at Asda, but I couldn't get my weekly shop even NEARLY into a TT's boot. I also think the TT is probably the worst car to get in and out of I've ever had the misfortune of trying out, the doorway is just too low and it's near on impossible to get in the back of one (although I have been a rear seat passenger in one a couple of times, but I'll not do it again...)

MKI = much lighter and nimbler than the MKII but rarer and therefore more expensive and difficult to find good ones... MKII = slightly quicker in 16V form, (unless you get a MKI 16V ;) ) easier to get hold of good ones cheaply, and slightly more creature comforts... I've had both (2 MKII GTIs and 3 MKI GTIs) and I still prefer the MKI, although as a daily driver, I'd get the MKII and de-badge it to keep some of the local wildlife away from it... ;)

yup, all Corrados had the same rear lights from the factory... 8)

still sounds like a timing issue to me... I'm not around this weekend, but I may be able to pop over with my timing light next week if you can't get sorted beforehand... 8)

steveo29, bloody good point there... 8) Cam belt, Supercharger belt and Power Steering belts will all be showing their age and that they've been stood for so long... :| I'd be tempted to change 'em before even cranking it over... (don't forget to do the cam belt tensioner too while you're in there... ;) )

A lot of people are now dumping their K&N filters on G60s and going back to original paper filters which are changed every 10K miles. Before starting, remove the spark plugs and turn it over on the key for a few seconds to get oil around the whole engine without over-stressing anything. Then put the plugs back in again and try to start her up. You'll find that she'll run like crap for a while as the petrol will have lost its edge. Make sure it gets: Oil Oil filter Air filter Fuel Filter Plugs (Preferably Bosch W6DPO ones) Fresh G12+ Coolant Check the brakes (and preferably change the brake fluid) and also check the condition of the tyres as they may have become flat spotted due to being sat for so long, or the side walls may have cracked and crazed meaning that they're no-longer structurally sound and may disintergrate under load (had this happen to me on the motorway in an old Golf, and trust me, it's not fun... ) Good luck!

it's simple.... remove the old handle, knock out the pin that holds in the broken part, insert the new part and push the pin back in again... refit the now working handle... Should take under 30 minutes... 8)

you can chip the 2.0 16V, but +30bhp is a little on the exagerated side... :| I don't know who supplies chips for 'em though, sorry...

Welcome to The Forum... 8) If you have a look at THIS LINK as one of our members makes a repair piece for the handles which is much better than the original part that snaps and is cheaper than a new handle... 8)

The volkspares engines are just old engines that have been fully rebuilt... We used to buy our Beetle engines from them when I worked as a mechanic and they were pretty good... For the same price you can build something much better yourself though...

Golf G60 - slight modification needed to I/C (with a grinder/saw) and small mod to car needed too (one or two hits with a hammer! ;) ) Golf Rallye - mod to drivers side towing bracket needed due to extra width. Audi S4 - lots of pipework needed, fits VERY well behind RS2 or RS4 front bumper.

'lo dlmb500, Welcome to The Forum, Flashing coolant bulb just means that you're low on coolant, not that you're overheating... A quick check list: 1) Check that the fans are coming on properly on all speeds and are getting at least 12V when they're on - The copper wires often oxidise meaning you don't get full power to the fan so it doesn't spin as fast as it should. 2) Check the temp of the bottom radiator hose compared with the top one once the car's up to temperature. If the bottom one is cold and the top one is hot, the thermostat is not working properly. 3) Check for water leaks - Even the smallest leak will cause the temps to rise as the system is designed to be sealed and therfore pressurised. Lose the seal, and the water will boil at a much lower temp than with it sealed and pressurised causing over heating 4) Check the temp gauge - They're not exactly the most accurate of things! Are you 100% sure you're actually got overheating problems? Water temp should be between 90 and 110 and oil temps should be similar on just about all Corrados. Much over those and there may be a problem, otherwise, it's about right... Good luck!

undo the big nut in the middle of the pulley and pull like ####!!! ;)

Chris M, I guess that's where I have a problem with mine then... I can't hear the normal whistle 'cos of the whine from the toothed pulley kit! :lol: :oops:

It WAS opening fully when I first installed the engine, but I had to bed it all in again, the stop has obviously not taken well to the extra thrashing that the car now gets and undone itself in protest! ;) :lol:

'Lo all... Last night as I was starting to change my heater matrix I discovered something that has completely transformed how my car is on full throttle... :| :shock: I always thought that the engine in my G60 wasn't as explosive (power wise!) in the grey one as it was in J-DUB, but since this discovery (and it's free solution), the difference is marked and was instantly noticable... So? What did I find and what did I do? :? (and why is this in interior?!? ;) ) . . . . . . . . . . . I found that the stop under the throttle pedal was not screwed in properly and so was stopping me from opening the throttle fully... :oops: :lol: Removed it (as I'm taking out the carpets anyway) and suddenly the engine performs as I remember it doing! 8) :lol:

Could be the ABS pump presurising the system...