Henny

Riley, how old is your dizzy? Is it the original one? I have a known good working one I could send you if you wish to swap 'em over which will totally rule out the hall sender which I think could well be the remaining cause of your problems... PM me your address and I'll send it over to you if you wish... it'll be free postage, and if it improves things and you want to keep it, I only want £10 for the dizzy... 8)

there was concrete dust on the track there... normally that means someone had already dumped oil/fuel on the track at some point recently which didn't help the guy after he'd already screwed up the approach to that corner something chronic! :roll: This is a perfect illustration why fibreglass bumpers aren't worth having... minor crunch like that and it's completely disintigrated! :lol: It's probably that which is making the rather horrible sounding crunching noises as it's loaded onto the truck... :?

6.62 to 60mph with just a those mods and a standard gearbox? nope, sorry, whatever kit you're testing with is wrong/not calibrated correctly. At the Dubforce Bruntingthorpe track day not one Corrado managed under 7 seconds to 60 timed using their track use based GPS system. On my GPS tracker (Trak-M8 ) I've only managed a 6.75 once and that's with a modified gearbox (LSD and VR6 1st and 2nd) and my 1940cc engine... Was this measured with one of those units which are supposed to measure the G-force your car gives and work out the acceleration and speed based on that? If it is, I'll say no more than I don't rate them at all and figures like this illustrate why... :|

Just found this interesting article (and a load of others I'll post up once I find if they're relevant or not...) From Autospeed Water Injection - It lets you safely develop more power with nearly no running costs! by Julian Edgar Water injection is a technology that is nearly as old as the car itself. However, like many automotive technologies, it has waxed and waned as fashion has dictated. Water injection has the ability to suppress detonation, allowing the use of higher cylinder pressures. It is easy to control and relatively simple to install. In times of tight emission controls, decreasing fuel octane and rising petrol costs, water injection is one of the best ways of controlling detonation. And it has another major advantage over taking other approaches - the 'fuel' is available at almost zero cost! How it Works Water injection is used to suppress detonation. Detonation occurs when the flame front does not burn progressively across the combustion chamber but instead explodes into action. This causes a massive and sharp increase in combustion pressures which can damage pistons, rings and even heads. Detonation can sometimes be heard as a 'tink, tink' sound coming from the engine. The piston and head shown here has suffered severely from detonation. Water injection works in three ways. Firstly, when the water is injected into the intake system prior to the cylinder head, the small droplets absorb heat from the intake air. Water has a very high specific heat rating (it can absorb lots of energy while only slowly increasing in temperature) and so the intake air is initially cooled. Next, the small drops of water start to evaporate. Water has a very high latent heat of evaporation (its change of state absorbs a lot of heat) and so the intake air charge is cooled still further. Finally, when the remaining water droplets and water vapour reach the combustion chamber, steam is produced. This acts as an anti-detonant and also keeps the interior of the engine very clean, so preventing the build-up of carbon "hot spots". Water injection was first experimented with in the 1930s. At the time it was discovered that detonation could initially be prevented by enriching the air/fuel ratio. As cylinder pressures rose still further and that approach ceased being effective, the injection of water into the intake air stream was found to prevent detonation. Interestingly, the detonation remained suppressed, even if the air/fuel ratio was then leaned-out. This occurred because the excess fuel was being used to cool the combustion process. When water replaced fuel in performing this function, less fuel was then required. This has major implications for both emissions and fuel economy at high engine loads. In fact Saab on some of their recent turbocharged cars has used water injection at high loads in conjunction with leaner air/fuel ratios to reduce emissions output and improve fuel consumption. To put this another way, at high engine loads it is possible to reduce the amount of fuel being used, replacing it with water without sustaining any loss of power! Always Water? While I have referred to 'water' injection, many systems add a 50/50 mix of water and methanol, or water and methylated spirits. Research carried out during World War II indicated that pure water is best at suppressing detonation, while a 50/50 mixture of water and methanol permits the greatest power output before detonation occurs. One reason for this may be that the alcohol burns more slowly than petrol, so causing peak cylinder pressures to occur at a later crankshaft rotation, increasing torque. The question of whether a water injection system can increase engine power is a contentious one. While the intake air will be lower in temperature (and so denser) when a water injection system is operating, the presence of an increased amount of water vapour in the air means that there is less room for oxygen. It is for this reason that dry air (that is, air with a low relative humidity) can allow an engine to develop more power. So when the air is cooler but its water vapour content is higher, will more power be developed? If no changes are made to air/fuel mixtures, theoretically the two factors almost exactly cancel each other out. This means that if water injection is used without any changes made to the tuning of the engine, improvements in power are possible but not probable. However, if the engine air/fuel ratio is leaned out, or boost is increased, or the ignition timing is advanced, more power is very likely. Supercharged aircraft engines using water injection had mechanisms that leaned out the air/fuel ratio simultaneously with the operation of the water injection. However it is very important to note that making random changes to the air/fuel ratio and ignition timing at high engine loads can be very dangerous for the health of the engine. Such changes should be made with care - it is very easy to blow up a forced induction engine with random leaning of the mixtures and/or ignition timing changes! Both methanol and methylated spirits mix well with water when it is required that a mix be injected. However it is important to note that both of these mixtures are inflammable and so the anti-detonant injection system's storage container, pump and lines should all be designed and installed with the carriage of an inflammable liquid in mind. Note that it has been suggested in some circles that the water can be directly added to the petrol by using a solvent such as acetone. However, I have not heard of anyone actually doing this! Water Injection Systems A water injection system should: Distribute the water equally to each cylinder; automatically start the water flow prior to it being required; have positive shut-off (eg via a solenoid valve) when water injection is not required; either warn the driver or decrease engine power (e.g.- by dropping boost) should the water supply be exhausted; be very reliable. Many aftermarket water injection systems do not satisfy any (let alone all!) of these criteria. To be most effective, a water injection system should add water in proportion to the changing airflow. In other words, the flow of water should match the flow of air, with small amounts of water being added at low loads and high amounts at high loads. If very accurate control of the water injection quantity is available, maximum water flow per cfm of induction air should occur at peak torque when cylinder pressures are at their highest. The water should be injected in as fine a spray as possible. Doing this results in each drop being smaller, increasing the surface area to volume ratio and so promoting evaporation. The smaller drops are also less inclined to fall out of the air, wetting the intake manifold walls and perhaps then being distributed unevenly from cylinder to cylinder. A small droplet size means that a high-pressure pump and a well-designed spray nozzle are required. UK company URL at http://www.aquamist.co.uk produces some very sophisticated water injection systems - probably the world's best. The company has developed their own pumps which work at high pressures and low flows. The pumps use an approach a little like a bicycle pump. Water is drawn in during the induction stroke of the solenoid-like pump, then pushed out past a valve by internal spring pressure. The stainless steel armature pulses in this way 50 times a second, delivering up to 160cc a minute at over 70 psi. The pump has built-in electronics to control this pulsing, with a 0-12 volt input control signal able to vary the flow. While URL use a sophisticated ECU to control some versions of the system, the availability of the control signal input means that the output of the airflow meter or MAP sensor could probably be adapted for the same purpose. An alternative to a pump is to use boost pressure to force the water through a nozzle. If this system is adopted, the spray can be used only in a forced induction car with the water introduced prior to the compressor. A very special nozzle is also needed if the spray is to be sufficiently fine to pass through the compressor without long-term damage occurring. People using coarse droplet water injection in front of turbos have reported that over a period of time the edge of the compressor blades develop a serrated edge - presumably from the impact of the water droplets. The injection of water can occur at a number of different points within the intake system. In a naturally aspirated car, the nozzle is usually situated prior to the throttle body. In a forced induction car, the nozzle can be situated: before the compressor, after the compressor after the compressor but before an intercooler after an intercooler. URL suggest a nozzle position just prior to the throttle body for road cars, while the supercharged aircraft of many years ago used up to 18 nozzles positioned around the supercharger exit diffuser. Testing of the two systems discussed below indicated that the best nozzle location should be found through experimentation. The amount of water that needs to be added to an engine is also best assessed through trial and error. If the flow of water is initially high and then is slowly reduced, this approach can be done quite safely. However, testing on aircraft engines indicates that the mass of water required to suppress detonation is 20-30 per cent of the weight of the total liquid charge (that is, the water plus the petrol) being consumed. The system should be configured so that water is only ever injected when there are high intake airflows.

sounds like a good plan.... wonder where I can get some plans on how to do a Corrado TDI? ;) :lol:

custom mounts, driveshafts and a few other small bits are needed... You'd need to use a 6speed VR6 gearbox as the bell housing on the TDI box is based on the 4cylinder engine style and so won't fit onto a VR6 engine... Let's just say, it's not a simple plug and play conversion... :?

point A else the engine won't know what's going on with your air intake... ;)

earth lead? There's no earth lead on the alternator... that's a LIVE... :|

could simply be that the recall valves have blocked up... See if the pipes on the bulkhead side of the valves are getting as hot as the engine side of the valves... if they're not, then there's your problem... ;) IIRC they're about £25 from VAG new...

there's a thin blue wire that connects to the alternator that has a connection down by the starter motor. This is the wire that sends a signal to the dash to turn the light off... make sure you've not accidentally disconnected that while you did the starter motor... Also check that the thick red from the alternator is connected to the +ve terminal of the starter too... 8)

front on it is FAR too BMW for my tastes... :| Nice idea to have a sunroof in a convertable though... wonder how long before it breaks?!? ;) :lol:

WONGA, when did it come on, and what does it do now? If it comes on as soon as you turn on the ignition and never goes out, then it's VAG-COM time to try and work out what's going on as it's an electrical fault. If it comes on and then goes out when you start the car, and then comes on when you go over about 15mph and stays on, then it's either a dead sensor, muck in the rotors or a slipping rear rotor. If it only came on once while you were driving, and hasn't been back on since, don't worry about it... 8)

woah, 'kin 'ell you got that at a steal! Nice one... 8)

Welcome to The Forum dutch... LHD will cost you more in insurance than RHD, but that's about it for the downsides... 8) The JET is the most common (and even then, it's not exactly common) LHD special edition over in the rest of Europe, IIRC they were available in Purple or Red with much brighter door cards than the normal cars. There was also (I believe, although I've never seen one) a Pirelli edition which I've been told was only available in white, but this may be a myth... Anything else is likely to be someone trying it on... ;) Oh, and if it says "Wolfsburg" anywhere near anything on a Corrado, then that's aftermarket as Corrados weren't made in Wolfsburg, they were made in Osnabruk... ;)

can't wait to see (and go up against :twisted: :lol: ) this new setup Sam, sounds like it's gonna be a real animal... 8)

congrats mate, nice to hear it's working out for you... 8)

I used a combination of: ETKA Bentley CD (for torque settings) Passat 88-92 Haynes manual MKII Golf Haynes manual Only the Bently covers the G60, but the engine is essentially the same as the PB Golf 1.8 8V GTI engine in how to construct it... when I rebuilt mine (which I've now done twice due to a little accident) I printed off the pages from the Bentley manual which had the torques on them and basically went from there using the Golf manual as a guide to the order to do the work in... Best pieces of advice I can give are: 1) PLAN everything before you do it, don't just rush in with the tools! 2) If you fit something, make sure you tighten it up fully before you leave it. DO NOT allow any distractions to stop you doing anything half way through, this is how bolts get left untorqued or overtightened which will screw up your rebuild. 3) Take your time and take plenty of breaks 4) Work somewhere clean, dry and warm... there's nothing worse than being cold and wet when trying to build an engine, and there's nothing that's gonna screw up your concentration and make you make silly mistakes too... Oh, and clean every part before re-fitting it, dirt (especially concrete dust) will screw your nice new bearings quicker than you can imagine! 5) ENJOY it... I tend to find it quite theraputic to sit there and build something out of a huge pile of bits knowing that you're gonna be able to sit back at the end, fire it up and KNOW that "I built that..." 8) :D

Fuel filter is under the car just in front of the rear drivers side wheel... 8) IIRC the 1.8 16V should have just one big pump, but I may be wrong about that... Someone's just done a "how to" on how to change the fuel filter... do a quick search and you'll find it... 8)

:shock: I think that is the highest on the forum then... Nope, J-DUB's on over 260K, but the odds are that I'll be overtaken before I get her back on the road again... :|

according to http://www.theregister.co.uk the Dr. involved has now denied ever saying anything about using dead animals in his biodiesel... Sounds like Tempest was right about that paper being a typical tabloid... :roll: :lol:

Kind of, it's money that was mine anyway that I've had to pay out because of this accident and the third party claiming it was entirely my fault, but it will be nice not to have to scrimp and save just to buy anything again as I'll actually have some savings again... 8)

:P I got a substitute ring just in case it went missing while we were on one of our 9 flights during our holiday... we'd mentioned doing that in the past, so I knew she'd be OK with that... It's nice, don't get me wrong, but it's not platinum and it ain't a diamond! :lol: I did consider getting a silver VW symbol ring, but it was a long way down from the top of the island, and I didn't fancy being kicked all the way down it! :lol:

UPDATE: Well it's nearly 11months since the accident that wrote off J-DUB and since then my solicitors have been disputing fault and seemingly being utterly crap and useless, loosing my documents, receipts, statements and contact details... :roll: Anyway, I called my solicitor today to find out what's happening and they told me that the third parties insurance company have admitted responsibility while I was in NZ and I should be expecting a call about the cheque for losses incurred shortly!!! 8) :D :D :D To say I'm over the moon is an understatement! This cheque (which isn't compensation, it's re-embursment for costs I've already had to pay out) will pay for the repairs on J-DUB, the new engine AND a proper engagement ring for my missus! 8) 8) 8) 8) :D :D :D Oh, and it also means that it's a non-fault claim on my insurance which should save me over £100 on my insurance and about the same on my missus' too! 8) There's a moral to this story folks: Always keep a disposable camera with flash in your glovebox with a notepad, piece of chalk, tape measure and pen at all times... you never know when some lying cow is gonna pull out infront of you and claim it's your fault... ;)

what's up with the motor? it could be as simple as a dodgy switch... 8)

Welcome to The Forum... To be honest, it's more likely to be either the clutch pedal catching on the back of the lower dash tray, or on either the carpet or an aftermarket mat than something on the hydraulic clutch system... It could possibly be that the clutch pedal needs some grease on its pivot shaft too I suppose, but that shouldn't cause it to stick.