Henny

Supercharged, the bonnet is the same external dimentions, it's just the bulge that's different... Waz, if it doesn't fit properly along the tops of the wings, it's not been lined up properly when it was fitted. I know what you mean about the bulged bonnet though, my H plater has one and I'd have preferred it with the early bonnet to be honest... 8)

93->95 IIRC...

h100vw, especially sat slightly in excess of the speed limit... :oops: :crazyeyes:

cool Gav, I didn't want to dish out advice if I'd missed something... 8) Riley, when you do the valve seals, do ONE at a time so you don't mix 'em up else the seats may not seal properly... 8) You only need to clean the valve faces if they're dirty... if the fella who did the head has cleaned 'em, don't bother... 8)

well, they're 5x100, so the bolts will line up. They're 52mm offset, so you'd need a spacer to get 'em to be the same offset as standard, but as I say, I have no idea about the center bore sizes and I can't find any info via google at the moment.... :|

Gav, if the head's been rebuilt and had new seats cut (they weren't seating properly before) surely all Riley's gotta do is change the seals? He won't need to lap 'em back in again, 'cos all he's doing is swapping the seal, he won't even have to remove the valves.... or am I missing something? :?

ooh, look, Subaru are 16" speedlines in 5x100 with a 52mm offset... clicky! Lob in a 10mm spacer and Bob's a close relative... ;) Hell, you could even sell the tyres to pay for the spacers and come out with some money off what you pay for 'em! :lol: Only thing I don't know is what the center bore of the wheels are, that could be a stumbling block as they may not fit over the center spiggot shaft on a VW if they're a smaller internal diameter... :?

um, shame you've not got a 4stud... clicky

dunno, I've always borrowed my mates spring compressor in the past... Halfords may well sell 'em... they sell valve lapping in kits, so I'd imagine you can get valve spring compressors too... I'd have a word with a local friendly garage in the morning, they may lend you theirs for the morning if you leave a deposit so you can put in the new ones and get your deposit back when you return the tool... ;) P.s. the small plastic sleves in with the seals are for you to put over the top of the valve stem where the collets go so that you don't damage the new seals as you put them on... remove 'em after you've slid the new seal over the grooved bit... ;)

if they're track wheels you'll want something nice and light... Cheap sets of OZs, compomotives or speedlines would be well up on my list as they're light, well made and not likely to break halfway around a fast corner if you clip a curb... 8)

Insurance companies make no sense blackcat... More than currently have 25% off if you go online at the moment... just got a stonking deal for my missus and myself on her Jeep... 8)

yup, and the one on the side of the head too... ;) If you've had the head rebuilt, then whoever did it should have used new valve seals anyway, so you can ignore 7

1 - headgasket 2 - exhast manifold gaskets 3 - exhast manifold gasket (never have worked out why they give you both types... :? ) 4 - water flange seals 5 - inlet manifold gasket 6 - cam seal (sits on cam behind cam drive wheel) 7 - valve seals 8 - inlet manifold gasket (again, never have worked out why they give you both types... :? ) 9 - exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket 10 - exhaust manifold studs and nuts 11 - Rocker cover gasket 12 - Cambelt 13 - Cambelt tensioner Oh, and across the top, Headbolts, Synta silver oil, and G12+ coolant... :lol: 8) Very much similar to the contents of my boot at the moment except I've also got a heater matrix, expansion tank and cap in there too! :lol: I've always used 2 and 8 and ignored 3 and 5 ;) Oh, and I have no idea what the paper O ring in 4 is for either... :| :lol:

with a 1940cc fully messed with engine and a spoiler with 25leds in it as a brake light... me a purist? :lol: (they were fitted to the car when I bought it, and they're actually pretty good)

Fair enough, The info in the first post looks to be inaccurate then, but as to the un-informed bit, there's some good info in this thread, which bits do you think are uninformed? :? Oh, and with a standard 10% over-read on a speedo at 125mph the reading will be nearly 140mph... add in that mechanical speedos tend to get more inaccurate the higher up the scale they get and I'd bet you weren't actually going much over 125... at a Genuine 139.8mph (GPS race tracker) in my Corrado the speedo was reading over 150, and that's an electronic one...

:lol: Well, if I didn't ask, someone else would have! ;) :lol:

Riley, sounds reasonable to me... 8)

G40 has a 40mm diameter scroll inside it. G60 has a 60mm diameter scroll inside it. The G stands for G-Lader. It's called that 'cos it looks like a G and Lader means charger in German If I Remember Correctly... Edit - mmm, bit slow with my answer there... :lol:

not without an adaptor... they're 5x112, you need 5x100... Oh, and that'd then screw up your offsets (they're 42 and you need around 35 for a VR IIRC) so basically, no, they won't fit...

saysomestuff, wouldn't know, I've got aftermarket door pods... :lol:

I'm with Gav here... If you have a boost leak then it will make the engine run rich as all of the air that's supposed to be getting into the engine isn't which'll screw up the vacuum and boost systems. Change the rubber grommet that fits around the CO Pot in the boost tube if it's leaking, they do squish down over time and can leak.... Once you've replaced the grommet, run it up to temp (over 80degrees water temp) disconnect BTS and unscrew idle screw until revs are around 850rpm, rev upto 3000 and release three times then let it settle. Re-adjust the idle screw again to get it back to around 850. Repeat a couple of time as needed, then reconnect BTS which shouldn't make any difference to how it's idling... See if that's any better... :)

Rack mounts are just the big bits of rubber 'n metal straps what hold the rack onto the subframe. They're not too expensive to buy, but I have no idea how you'd fit them having never done it or tried to do it...

what colour wire?

which bits? The center console is similar, but I don't think it's identical, and the bit around the clocks is also slightly different IIRC 'cos the light switch is vertical rather than horizontal... As to if they'd fit or not, I have no idea... :|

gsbellew, you're not correcting me, you're correcting 6n16v whose info I was going off and who started this thread... I have no idea what the 0-60 or top speed on a G40 is, and frankly couldn't care less... I know that VW DON'T underestimate their stats, but they do test the cars with 2 passengers, half a boot of luggage and half a tank of fuel, unlike some other manufacturers who strip the cars of everything and run 'em on vapour! :roll: Anyway, this thread was about the ENGINES and why VW bothered to develop the G60 when the G40 could be made to make the same power...