nocrap

well it's all a gamble really, you could spend the £20 on it and all will be fine...the belt will last and you'll be happy...or after a shorter time the belt goes a bit dodgy, but then again you could replace the belt again and still be £13 better off...you'll always get people on here saying either buy genuine or i've never had a problem with pattern parts........it's a difficult one. My philosophy is to always buy genuine for any vital, engine destroying bits (cam belt and such like) and for anything else go by your bank balance at the time...

Because it will be a cheapy, crappy pattern part.......some are ok though

What's it got to do with the satnav?? are people expecting to see a little icon of a train coming along??? sure it more to do with the signaling on the crossing itself......

The holes in the subframe arn't threaded, the bolts go into the bumper. Don't really think they would have ever planned for it to be driven with the bumper off.....

you can use a haynes manual, you need the earlier passat one...that covers the 9a. as far as a guide goes i haven't seen one either, but i changed mine the other week and it was fine. Basically you need to remove the covers from the cam belt, remove the drivers side wheel and take out the arch. Remove the alternator belt and possibly the PAS one Crank the engine using the star bolt in the middle of the drive pulley so that the line on the cam sproket lines up with the arrow on the cam cover this is TDC Remove the bung from on to of the fly wheel on the other side of the block, you should be able to see a line on it and this should line up with a dot Release the bolts and soak the drive shaft pully with releasing fluid and leave for a bit Give the pulley a good couple of whacks with a plastic or rubber mallet and it should drop off (do not be tempted to undo the central star bolt!!) Slacken the tensioner pulley and remove cam belt Slide on the new belt with the new tensioner roller (which can be a bit of a fiddle) rotate roller using tool and hand tighten bolt cam belt should now be tight rotate the engine using the line of the cam sproket as a guide at least twice (i think i did mine 8 times in the end) check that the flywheel marks line up still. if all is good put everything back together after tightening up the roller bolt. I know i've probably forgotten something here but i'm sure others will pick me up! I would advise doing this with 2 people, especially for the timing bit. Don't worry about the intermediate pulley as this only drives the fuel pump Ensuring that the timing marks all line up on a 16v is critical! Have fun

No they are not support bots as such but without them the bolt in the center will probably snap. when i removed mine they just dropped out with no resistance, but after having a good look and conversation with Supercharged i would say they play a vital role in stopping what has happened to you.

Finally got to drive the Corrado again on Monday for the first time in weeks! was great to back behind the wheel and blast it around. Was slightly worried by the very high pitch noise coming from the right side of the engine, turned out the cold start injector bolts hadn't been fully tightened :oops: and 75psi of pressure was forcing its way through, luckily only air and not fuel! Was going to take some more pictures but as it's been raining every day since Monday i haven't been able too!!

Unless its been converted then yes it should be 4 stud....

Possibly bearings in the water and PAS pump.....both belts are only a couple of quid each, might be worth changing them....you'll then be able to rotate both pumps by hand to see if there's any play.

OK well thats the first thing you need to do, then you should be able to locate where the noise is coming from....

So it wont make the noise when you rev it on your driveway? therefore it only makes the noise under load? if so i'd be looking at the drivetrain....clutch, bearing, etc...

are those 5 stud wheels?

Might be worth doing an oil change to see if it helps at all...or even change it once run it for a bit then change it again.

Nah, i reused the original ones.....swapped the upper seals on 2. i would have done the other ones but i couldn't get the new one on over the cap!

Just thought i'd add my injector tip to this thread now i've got the caps back on and injectors back in the engine! We found the best way to get the caps back on was to lightly put them onto the injector then push them hard on the new injector seals that we had, against the side of the inlet manifold...being careful not to damage the fuel lines. No need for heat or glue.

Are you going to bring some along to Stanford tomorrow? Might be interested....

I very much doubt that they'll replace it, they'll only say something like you must have used hard water or too much/little antifreeze. for the sake of £30 get a new VW one......however it still might be worth asking the question, you never know.

I wouldn't say it was timing either, you would seriously notice with a 16v! Check the simple things first, you could be getting a weak spark at low revs so check your plugs, look for splits in the HT leads, is the distributor cap knackered?

Wouldn't imagine that it would matter too much, the later 9a uses a metal one though.

ISV shouldn't be a problem if its doing it with the pedal down, fuel metering head could be iffy. what state are the spark plugs coming out like when you've run it for a bit?? they should be able to tell you if it is over fuelling...do both micro switches work on the throttle? as well as the on in the air box.....

Managed to get the new wing on yesterday, was a bit of a fiddle but didn't really expect it not to be! Tonight I spent a bit of time trying to sort out the bonnet release cable, the bits at the handle end that hold the plastic shroud in place pinged off when i was trying to open the broken bonnet...annoyed me too much so I've left it for tomorrow to give me time to think about it and hopefully get some answers from here. After giving up with that we put then bumper back on!

The funniest thing is that MFA goes up by 2! Mine usually sits at around 100, but i wouldn't be too fussed about 116*...perhaps the thermostat isnt fully opening.

Considering that i didn't get in from a cracking night in London until 5 this morning why on earth did i decide that it would be a good idea to put the new slam panel on tonight at 7.45! all i intended to do was to paint a bit of rust.... New bonnet was fitted yesterday as well so its starting to come together!

All fluids now done bar the gearbox which i might do as well. Also changed the gasket and the o ring on the oil cooler and bracket.......Runs lovely! Got Besian bringing me a new wing and slam on Sunday so I'll hopefully get them on (well probably just the slam panel for the time being).....then I'll be ready to rock and roll early next week!!!! Woo!

that is £7.50 for all though, not just one