Banana Man

here ya go

I did a quick chop on mine I quite like em How much are they steve?

My Jabba air filter was made by JR! escort cosworths also use this filter so if you have a JR supplier out in the US that sells the escort cosworth filters then you'll probably find it's alot cheaper than jabba-shite. Think they charge something like £130 with the heatshield, which is a complete rip off as it's only a thin piece of stainless steel and a £50 air filter.

Before you buy a multimeter go and buy yourself $2's worth of vacuum hose and change the hoses it could save you a load of cash. Has the knock sensor been replaced at any time and what does the cable look like?

If your idle rose when you disconnected the vacuum hose from throttle bodie to ecu then I put money on it that you have a leak in one of the vacuum pipes, go out and buy yourself a couple of meters of 3/16th vacuum hose and replace the throttle bodie to ecu pipe ( make sure it's 1m exactly) and also replace the little vacuum pipe from the fuel pressure reg to inlet manifold. Also check that the acessorie nipples on the vacuum pipe from inlet manifold to brake servo aren't broken and leaking.

On my new copy of etka there is only one dizzy listed and thats the part number gave ya a few posts up! Is it just running rough or is it dropping a cylinder when it's been running for a while? Just after I changed the alternator I had a very similar problem I had the same intermittent fault car would just start running like a pig and stall at junctions and if you were off boost driving along on say quarter throttle is was very jerky and stuttering, but on WOT it was perfectly fine. I changed the main earth from the gearbox to the battery negative and that cured it. If you haven't already done so Steve get yourself down to the dealers or motor factors and get yourself a new earth cable from gearbox to negative I bought 2x12" leads from a motor factors as my dealer didn't have the earth cable in stock, it came to £2 and cured my problem. If you change the cheap parts first and it doesn't cure it theres no great loss. I bank on it being either the distibuter or a bad earth.

All the G60 dizzy's are the same 037 905 237 x I cant remember the bosch number off the top of my head . The main engine earth is the earth from gearbox to to negative terminal!! Just try it and see!! Is the fault permanant now or is it intermittant? Its always harder top diagnose when it's intermittant.

Try pulling off the vacuum pipe from throttle bodie to ecu while it's running if the engine doesn't drop in revs drastically then it's a vacuum leak somewhere ( most common is the throttle bodie to ecu though)

Sounds to me like a dizzy fault tbh my old gti had a similar fault where it would cut out at any given time and that turned out to be dizzy related. They're £70 from ecp and theres also quite a few g60's being broken at the moment so you could pick one up quitye cheap just to try or if you have a good mate with a G60 local to you see if you could try theirs as timing up a G60 is a piece of piss 10 min job

I dont think s not while moving but on idle and when you come to halt at a junction or whatever it could cause that. When you cold start the engine can you hear the isv sucking in air? It should permantly hum or buz when the ignition is on. If its not drawing enough air in then it will kill the engine. When the car starts to hunt you should be able to hear the isv opening and closing! The gearbox earth should be from the gearbox support bar to a mounting point behind the battery and then from that point straight to the negative terminal on the batt. You should also have an earth strap from the back right of the rocker cover to the coil. And the 3 earths from the engine to ecu should be on the coolant flange bolt on the side of the head. There is a little grub screw in the isv which can be adjusted to let in more air or restrict air it is a small torx crew head, but if you adjust it remember to carefully count the turns you do. If you open it too much you will lose boost pressure or if you restrict it too much the car will just die!

If you've got a multimeter the attatched below is very helpfull in testing the sensors to see if they've got continuity. you just have to take it one step at a time untill you've gone through the lot. Set the multimeter to audible so that if it hasn't got continuity you will be able to tell as it wont buzz and then you can trace the wire back to the breakage. All the sensors should have 5 volts going into them apart from the hall sender plug which should have 10v+ on 2 of the terminals ( middle and outer right iirc) Hope this helps a little! I will dig out all the info on what I tested before I found out the cause of my problems. It sounds like you 2 have either a sensor down or a wiring breakage somewhere. After all I went through to find out my fault I'm a little pissed that it was only the plugs which I ruled out as they were brand new. I trust you have both checked the grounds as the are the most common faults in my experience. Make sur the head to ecu grounds have a decent earth even if it means running a new cable from the negative terminal to the earths on the head. Also check the 2 earths from the negative terminal on the battery to the ecu as I have been told they are also common weak spots by a few people.

We'll get there in the end!! :D Next up is plenty of polishing under the bonnet, I ve got bored of the all black look now. and need to get the drivers door card retrimmed in nice new leather and more cleaning :D

I have plenty of reason to open the bonnet ITS MY CAR :D It wasn't my fault in the irst place that it went wrong first it was the cv joint then the alternator and then these supposed new plugs, must have just been a dodgy batch

Yeah I should think so! I ve only got the latest copy though as I gave my mate the other one I had. Has anyone else got the TIS (Technical Information System) cd rom . I ve got a copy coming and it looks like it could be 10 times better than the bentley manual which is rubbish!

lookimg good Marc 8)

If you know your dealers really really well they give you all they're old copies :D They get a cd rom update every month, usually the old copies just go in the bin but my mate there now gives them to me :D

Nice car I actually really like that colour!! I ve had a little play with it on photoshop and this is what I came up with!! :D

The new ones were VAG boxed and f*ck knows what the old ones were as I didn't put them in! I didn't change the dizzy, just cleaned it! It's still a bit of a mystery really as I think I solved a couple other issues along the way. But the car wouldn't start at all this morning made sure there was a spark ( with an old plug) and there was so just took out all the new ones and put the old ones back in and it's been fine ever since! Looking at the engine from the front the top left nipple on the back of the throttle bodie goes to the ecu and the other (bottom right) goes to the carbon cannister if you still have it or is blanked off otherwise!

The is a screw that has to come out, its a pig to get to as it's basically between the steering column and the ignition barrel if you look at your new switch you'll see the hole, once that crew is out though it can just be pulled out and the new one slotted in!

LOL Cheers VEEDUBBER but the car is fixed now and she's running like a peach once again ( until next time that is LOL)

Could be the inner cv boot rubbing on the exhaust downpipe, and as everything in that area will have been moved when the engine was jacked up to replace the mount I would put my money on it being that!

No they were just straight w6dpo's

Fixed it at last!!!!! After all the fucking about it looks like it was the 2 new sets of spark plyugs that I bought off egay, one minute they were sparking the next they weren't had me well confused. I got it running but it was only running on 3 cylinders so whikle the engine was running I took each lead off one by one and while I was doing that I noticed that all 4 leads had good spark as they were all arcing onto the cylinder head. So I took all the new plugs out and swapped them with the old plugs that I took out before I had all the troubles and it fired up on 4 cylinders straight away and has been fine ever since!! I took it on a 15 mile drive and it's been as good as gold. One thing I did notice about the new plugs that I bought is that on the white ceramic all 8 of them had a black identity ring and my old ones had 2 blue rings, quite what they mean is unknown but I'm now convinced it was them that was causing the problems!!!

cleaning the dizzy internally seemed to get it going again I removed it and cleaned it thoroughly and sprayed some wd40 in there and then re fitted it, at the same time I also put another new set of spark plugs in and timed it up it started first time but was very lumpy a idle but was fine on acceleration ie not on vacuum! as soon as it went on to idle it was very lumpy again. I ve since run a lead straight from the negative of the battery onto the cylinder head and also one down to the lambda bracket and the car has changed symptoms yet again it is now overfuelling like a b*tch very lumpy throughout the rev range, thick black smoke out the exhaust ( which you would expect with that much fuel going through it) My new multimeter is buggered at the moment ordered a new replacement 2 weeks ago under warranty but it still hasn't come in so at the moment cant check anything I'm so pissed off at the moment it's not been a good couple of weeks. Just doing my sums to see if I can afford to buy another car to replace the rado and then break the corrado for parts as I ve pretty much had enough of it now!

the blue temp sensor was replaced on saturday and the wiring is ok for it Running the red tops injectors and all the plugs are the same colour ( black!) Vacuum hoses are all new including fpr-inlet