Banana Man

I posted in your thread last night as well :D I ve got my car started now but it's seriously over fuelling thick black smoke out the exhaust and has a very lump idle I ve gone through everything I can think of now Lambda seems to be doing it's job earths seem to be good distributor is producing a very good spark now ( after cleaning it) ecu seems fine BTS is working ( revs drop to about 500rpm when disconnected) isv is working vacuum hoses are all good Engine compression is good alternator is good Battery is good plugs are good leads are good cap is good Rotor arm is good wot switch is good idle switch is good timing is good fpr is good I think that covers most things that it could have been causing the problem but the problem is still there so I have no idea now.

I'm shaving similar probs with mine again it idls really bad unplug the lambda and still the same symptoms, with the lambda connected and unplug the bts idle drops as it should. The car is running incredibly rich thick bklack smoke is coming out the exhaust I ve tried just about everything I can think of to sort it but hassn't made the slightest difference. If you do find out whats causing your probs steve give me a shout as it might be relevant to me as well!! Fecking rado I'm begining to really hate it now!!!

Yeah think security would be a good idea the insurance premium is over £80k a year now for all the fleet!!! One more hit on the insurance aint gonna do much harm but you never know what they may take next or what they do next as they've already caused one of the vans to catch fire next time it may be the brake lines or something that will cause a serious accident!!!

We've had another break-in at work over the weekend. last weekthey just unbolted the dash of a transit and pulled it away from the firewall. This weekend Not content with just taking the dash they took the stereo, clocks interior light, wheels and complete wiring loom, Oh and they also unbolted the cctv cameras and had away with as well LOL how on earth they didn't get noticed is beyond me as they took the loomout very neatly there wasn't one wire left where the dash used to sit and we all know how time consuming taking the dash out is yet alone the complete wiring loom. Ford have quoted £1700 for a new loom. I haven't found out what they wanted for the dash and the clocks though, probably another £1500 or so. They also tampered with a few of the other vans so we couldn't send them out today so basically it's going to be an enormous insurance claim as the police have bugger all chances of catching the culprits. It's the third time they've broken in in 4 weeks.

Oil is in the pipe from airbox to charger is probably just the K&N panel filter oil working it's way through as you have to oil them when they are new to filter out more of the crap that passes through them!!!

It's probably the superlube spray that daz sprays into the charger to keep it lubricated, there is no way oil can get into the airbox-charger pipe unless it's sprayed in there as the G60 doesn't have an oil breather that goes to the airbox like on the golf 8v's. I dont think it's anything to worry about if there was quite a bit of oil after charger then the most likely cause would be a popped oil seal but as it's just a small amount I would'nt worry!!

Mine does exactly the same if I stay under 100mph they're fine over 100 they go really slooooooooow on the backsweep. I ve just put up with it for the last 3 years as I really cant be arsed to do anything about it :D

What you want is a hella raintronic system, flick it to intermittant wipe and when the screen gets wet it wipes, when its dry it dont! another lazy mans gadget for me then :D

Just put the timing strobe on cylinder one and no strobing while cranking it over at all!! So took the ht lead off cylinder one and attatched another plug and grounded it and then cranked the engine over again and there was a very weak spark so my conclusion is that the hall sender must be faulty in the distributor as that sends the signal to the coil to amplify the spark iirc. I'm going to ring ecp tomorrow and get the dizzy swapped over as it'll be a warranty job and hopefully that will solve the problem!!! If not I will have a corrado for breaking :D

definately fuel on plugs and the plugs are 2 weeks old W6 DPO if a plug was down it would still fire. I dont think it is a relay problem as all the starting circuit has voltage ie starter motor, fuel pump, dizzy, coil etc etc I am kinda thinking along the lines of it being the halls sender thats at fault even though it's only a few months old. I reckon it might be firing at the wrong time which is why it isn't igniting the fuel and flooding the engine. I'm going to rig up the timing strobe to cylinder 1 and when cranking see if it strobes on the tdc mark on the crankshaft pulley if it's firing at the wrong time it has got to be the hall sender in whic case is under guarantee as it's only a few months old ( only covered about 3k miles) Thanks for the tips guys keep em coming if you have anymore ideas. Will keep you posted

As jim says you dont need to reset the G60 ecu plus I have swapped the ecu with my spare and it still has the same problem

haven't got the old dizzy as it was an exchange item and that was faulty as well anyway I changed all the vacuum hoses a week ago when I had the last problem so they are all ok I ve gone over all of them again to check as well.

yeah you should be able to I haven't tried it myself but if you have a charger with boost/start function then that should produce enough to run small output stuff like the radio and windows

Checked cap, checked rotor and the hall sender is putting out 10v across 2 of the pins like it should do. The dizzy is only 3 months old so should all be ok anyway. Checked that the dizzy hasn't moved 13mm bolt is still done up tight and you cant move it by hand. In theory the car should start as there is fuel and there is a spark that is what's so frustrating as thats all a combustion engine needs to start but even when being bump started it doesn't even think about firing!

I came out of work on thursday afternoon got in the car and started it up, the car started first time but was running on 3 cylinders so turned off the car and had a quick look under the bonnet to see if something simple was wrong but couldn't see anything so got back in the car and tried starting it but it wouldn't fire at all now. The car turns over but doesn't fire things ive checked * voltage at all senders ( they have voltage) * checked fuel pump is priming ( it does) * checked for spark ( there is a spark present) * checked there is fuel coming through ( took plugs out and cranked over the engine and fuel was squirting) * checked earths ( all ok) * Immobiliser is re routed at the moment and that seems to be ok * checked cam timing to make sure it hasn't slipped ( everything aligns as it should) * swapped ecu's just to rule that out of the equation ( no change so thats seems to be ok) * swapped the cold temp switch wiring with the water switch and still no change ( so presume thats ok) * changed the coil ( no change so thats ok) * bought a new blue temp switch today (no change) * changed coil ( no change) * plugs are 2 weeks old so they are ok I ve run out of ideas now as I ve gone through everything I can think of!!! Even though there seems to be fuel and spark present when cranking it still doesn't fire at all which is a real mystery. Can anyone else come with any ideas on what else to try as I rerally need to get the car fixed this weekend or I am going to have problems getting to work as my golf has run out of MOT and insurance :(

That drifting nitro car isn't supercharged if ya look at what the stg d conversion is it's basically a new chassis which relocates the engine to the middle of the car for the right weight distribution to make drifting easier. Might have to do the stg d conv on my rs4 coz that looks mental :D

Do they work though??? Looks mental though!! I ve seen supercharger kits on nitro cars before and they're pretty cool!!! 8)

I ve just had similar steve and it turned out to be the earth lead from battery to gearbox support bracket check that before going out and buying anything

I run 2 cambelt tensioners on my toothed belt pulley setup but then again the htd belt that I run is 1600mm long whereas the std ribbed belt is 1660mm iirc so the saving that you make on buying cam tensioners would be lost if you have to go out and buy a shorter serpentine belt to be able to get enough tension without it slipping as the cam tensioners have a smaller diameter than the black std tensioners

Foremost coatings on the hobbs ind estate in east grinstead will be able to do that and he also does powder coating as well!!! If you want his number I'll dig it out for ya

just stick it in the back if it wont go in the front and make it rwd :D Now that would be fun and a bit of a handful at the same time :D

Mavryk750, Do you really need air con in Canada :D

had my powerflow on for 3 years now and is still as good as when it was first done RSR in Redhill do a good job.

Your unlucky streak still hasn't improved then Ian :roll: :D

WTF :roll: