DanVW

Is that Australian slang for something? Good pic though mate you have to love that standard VR ride hight! :lol: Dan

Sorry :oops: found the part number on the wiki! 535881378B

Plug & play please :-)

Anyone know the part# for the bolster? A quick search turned up a few threads with people quoting different prices but no part #. I usualy like to turn up with the part numbers as last time I went to my local stealer for an ECU vac hose I was informed by the on duty parts monkey that "an ECU doesnt ave a vac hose mate its electrical init" :2gunfire:

"a better quality oil"? details please :-)

Hi Dub_nut_g60, I found this lot helped when I put my G60 back together after changing the crank pulley. Cheers Dan

Hey Tom, I dont know if your Golf is a 16v or not but if it is put an 8v box on it was the best mod I did to my 16v :-) really looonnng 5th gear plus I was able to drive it with no first gear for 6 months before I got round to fixing the linkage! :oops: Not found a hill yet that I cant pull away in 2nd on and plus the mpg improved too! Well worth changing the oil seals and refilling with fresh hp oil while your at it! Cheers Dan

Hi Mancorr, I had the same problem on my 92 G60, turned out to be the gasket between manifold and downpipe like Slim said fingers crossed for you mate! was caused by a dodgy front engine mount! Dan

Hey Slim, Have you checked underneath too see where its blowing from? I thought mine had gone a few weeks back as it was really noisy from right behind the engine, turns out it was the gasket between the downpipe and the main exhaust easy fix and cheap too! :D

Hi Maxmotor, Have you changed or modified the ECU? as the vac pipe that runs from the inlet manifold to the ECU lets it know how much boost the charger is putting out only problem is that the map sensor inside the ECU only reads up to 1bar anything over that and the boost is bleed off by the ISV this could be your problem. But if I am wrong I'm sure it wount be long before some one corrects me :-)

My G60 is the only car I have ever managed to run out of petrol in :-( was too used to my 16v Golf still going strong well down into the red, my C on the other hand conked out before it got to the bottom of the red, was gutted as I thought the crank pulley had gone again, so I stripped it all down only to find everyting was fine.... Then took the fuel filter off and switched on the igniton only to find it pushing out air :oops: my misses is still laughing about it now! But I never let it get into the red anymore, still cost me £60 to fill up from just aboue the line though!

Hey Andy, Where are you based? I had a quick look round the site but couldnt find a post code to do a google map, would be very interested in coming up in the new year for "the works" :-) but as I am in Southampton I wanted to know how far away you are. Cheers Dan

Cool cheers Darren so next question is anyone on here running a C with a passat crank pulley? How much difference does it make and any drawbacks?

Darren, Any idea why the passat 60 runs a larger pulley, is it to make up for the extra weight of the estate shell and rear doors? And if so is it a worth while mod for us C 60 owners? 8)

Hi Mate, If you put a bigger crank pulley on wont that screw up the timing between the crank shaft and the camshaft? I thought with the stock pulley it was a ratio of 2:1 surely if you change the pulley size you will change that ratio and run the risk of valve meets piston type badness? Dan

Hey Tom, Does the C 16v's have a cold start injector like the Golf 16v does? Did you change that one as well? May be worth checking your cold start enrichment is working? Maybe I should stop asking so many questions? :scratch:

Hey Andy, Great work mate! :-) getting closer all the time, worth checking if that fuse runs anything else but if not then its time for the fun part, you need to follow the wiring from either the fuse box or the rear demister itself to find that short! P.s I dont think there is anything wrong with your altenator but an easy way to prove it would be to pull that fuse and drive it ;-) all the best Dan

Hey Andy, You could try disconecting the coil then switch the ignition two position 2, wait for the fuel pump to stop buzzing then measure the current draw from the battery, just to see if the problem is coil related or not? Another trick would be to try pulling out the relays one by one then checking the current draw till you (hopefully pull one and see the meater reading drop) just make sure the ignition switch is OFF when you pull out or plug in the relays! Will get there in the end mate keep the faith ;-)

Hey Andy, Agreed that the ignition off readings are good :-) but not sure it should be drawing 11.5 amps with ignition on but without the engine running :?: I would have though it would be less than half that once the fuel and abs pumps get upto pressure? but like I say I have never measured it so hopefully someone in the know will pop up and confirm? If that is a correct reading then the problem has to be once the engine is cranked or running, which would rule the out window regulators, ECU and ABS pump (as they are powered before the engine cranks) getting confused now :roll: Hope I am helping and not just making things even more confusing!

Those ignition on current readings don't look right to me... but then again I don't know what they should be :oops: where did you take those measurements? I really hope you didn't switch your meter to Amps and put your probes across the battery!? :onfire: Not sure how much you know about car electrics here and I don't mean to offend but if your not sure you should get a pro mobile car electrics dude out! As to measure current draw you need to have the meter in series with the battery, ok if the engine is off but your looking at 100's of Amps when you crank the engine, more than enough to fry most home multimeter's! Like I said don't mean to lecture but don't want to see anyone hurt either! Can anyone confirm what the running current draw should be? (with all electrics off! fan, de-mister, lights etc)

do any of your relays get hot while driving? I mean proper hot not just a little warm :-) could be worth checking as it sounds like something is switching to earth with the ignition on, does it still go flat with the ignition on but without the engine running?

Not sure if you have to remove the crank to change the seal or not but even if you do it can be done from underneath, sump off, gearbox off, endcaps, shells off etc, drop out crank replace seal and refit crank (sounds easy eh) :-) Am sure someone can confirm if the above is complete shite or not? :oops: Anyone? Dan

At a guess it sounds like your crank shaft oil seal :-( only way to be sure will be to get the cam belt covers off and take a close look!

Hey Kongo, The explination is your heater matrix is leaking.... Its a bitch to change but use the search there is a really good guide to fitting a new one without removing the dash! best of luck Dan

Hi Matt, The attached pic shows the heater box, the highlighted bit shows where the hot/cold air flap sits. Hope it helps Dan