Crasher

Did you get the kit from me (C&R)?

Firstly, the following job will release fuel, possibly at high pressure so take all suitable precautions such as the engine must be cold, no naked lights, work in a well ventilated area preferably out of doors and have a fire extinguisher to hand. Remove the fuel pump relay (position 12 with the number 167 on top) and attempt to start the car as normal (immobiliser disarmed) and this SHOULD release any fuel pressure in the rail IF the injectors are opening which they may not be doing as the car will not run. At this point, be very careful as fuel may be sprayed out all over you and will run onto the exhaust. Remove the hose from the number 4 end of the injector rail (to the fuel pressure sensor on the inlet manifold) and attach a fuel pressure gauge to the test point. The gauge needs to be capable of reading to 5 bar. Bridge out the two large sockets (4 and 6) on the relay plate fuel pump position, relating to the two large terminals (30 and 87) on the relay. 4 on the plate corresponds to 87 on the relay, the power to the pump, and 6 corresponds to 30 which is the power to the relay. The fuel pump should now run even with the ignition off (unless the output has been intercepted with an immobiliser so the ignition may need to be on with the immobiliser disarmed) and you should see approx 4 bar on the gauge, dropping to approx 3.5 bar if you apply a vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator. If this test gives the required results, the fuel pump should be OK. When removing the gauge, again beware of high-pressure fuel and run the pump (as described previously) after re-fitting the hose to check for leaks BEFORE starting the engine.

Ilexa, http://www.onboarddiagnostics.co.uk , very very nice people to deal with. I popped my (third!!!!!) cable on Tuesday on a Skoda Fellatio and they had a new one to me next day although I was a few hundred quid lighter. NOTE:- If you plug your cable into a car, check the radio is original or pull it out first. Rushing around trying to keep up, I have forgotten this a number of times and it has now cost me three new cables in a year and at near £300 a go, that hurts!

I have learnt to be less OTT in my comments of late, I have been hammered for being to vocal over things I do/don't like and I am trying to take the middle ground these days. Something tells me trying to please all of the people all of the time will probably make me more enemies than being direct but I am giving it a go.

Disconnect the battery and jack up the car and carefully support the car on axle stands bearing in mind you are going to be shifting the engine around. Undo the top 15-mm headed nut and undo the 17-mm and 13-mm headed lower bolts. Lift up the front of the engine with a trolley jack and slide out the mount. As the Haynes comic says, "reassembly is the reverse of dismantling". Be careful though, an engine on the head hurts.

It usually appears inside the centre consul ready for the optional gauge pack but occasionally it does not appear further than behind the fuse box. No, it does not need connecting. As Riley says, that post on the dizzy is for the 030 shield but it is often used to connect the yellow oil pressure wire to for shutting up an oil beeper, something to watch out for when buying a C.

I have never had a problem on a 9A but I only use approved cables.

There are at least four ways of building a 2L G60. Use a 2 litre short or tall block or convert the existing block to 82.5 or 83-mm bore with a 2 litre 92.8-mm stroke crank (1984 or 2008 cc). These methods leave you with a small gudgeon pin and a high compression to work around. The T4 van AAC 2L (1968cc) petrol engine with its 81mm bore and 95.5-mm stroke is ideal due to its 8.5:1 compression and 24-mm gudgeon pins but it is a little harsh at revs.

That is for the optional oil pressure gauge.

It is usualy the heater wire (red/white) shorting out to earth, very common.

Corrado 4 stud wishbones are the same as a Golf 2, it's the subframe that is wider. If you changed the subframe to narrow the track, how would you get your camber?

The stroke of a PG is 86.4-mm so a bore of 82.5-mm would give 1848 cc.

Motorcycle cylinder paint, lasts years. http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... t%20(310ml)

I always specify the Textar pads as they are the only ones with a self adhesive backing. Remind your garage to clean off the self adhesive backing for the pad on the piston (and a slither of copper grease or ally paste) but use the sticky backing on the outer pad. This backing stops the pads from howling.

As long as you can fit the sensor, some leads cannot be dismantled.

It would be worthwhile changing the injectors.

What part number have you got? It may be the type where you have to strip down the orginal to fit the pump.

I don't think GSF do them for a 9A so if you use KR leads, you need to unscrew the cap end from number 4 and fit the position sensor, is that what you did Nige?

The only problem we find with G4 calipers is that the bleed nipple seizes in and when you come to bleed the brakes after 2 years, releasing the nipple rips out the thread. We have tried ally paste to stop this but don't know yet if it has worked, too soon to tell.

OK, if you can do this, so can I! Try the WEITEC HICON GT coil over from C&R.

OK, if you want to DIY that’s OK, it will cost less but take longer and you may need to buy some special tools. Firstly, you need to get a fault code report using something like VAG-COM so if this is not available to you really need to get hold of it, as guesswork can prove expensive. As your car is early and will not start, you should get a hall sender G40 fault code that may be truthful. To eliminate this you need a healthy battery. Get VAG-COM into the selection screen and then start cranking the engine constantly whilst setting VAG-COM into engine group 01 and then fault codes where you should get a truthful report. If I had to take a guess, I would say it is the hall sender in the distributor, as your car should have one being a 93. The fact that the car has had a coil pack is odd, maybe they meant the coil transformer unit as a coil “pack” normally means the 6-point unit on the side of the head. What is the chassis and engine number? Do not post these numbers, PM them as its personal info that could be abused. How about a picture of the nearside of the engine?

The hoses are all above the tank. The tank is easy to lower out. The straps unbolt quite easily and there are two 10-mm headed bolts up near the filler cap. You have to disconnect the fuel lines and wiring from the sender unit under the black disc on the boot floor.

Bio or non bio?

Get the car to someone who knows what they are doing!

I use a Gedore 30-mm 12 point impact.