Crasher

A common reason for bent front ABS rotors is wheel bolts that are too long or people putting the wheel bolt in without the wheel to hold the disc still. We use an old CV nut under the bolt to reduce its length if we need to do this.

The reason you had trouble is that the bushes are for a Golf 2 bar. No one seems to make them for a Corrado VR6. VW don't even list it correctly on ETKA, you have to use Polo 6N mounts but I can't find any in Poly.

I can't believe what you are saying here, you really ran the car sans battery? It’s a joke right? One of the first things you are taught in mechanic classes is NEVER run a car without the battery.

I avoid tubular manifolds, far too much aggravation for very little gain. Huge amounts of radiated heat unless wrapped, lambda sensor oxygen sensing problems, cracking due to the flex point being in the wrong place and nowhere near the claimed power gains. Most (not all) tubular manifolds from foreign manufactures don’t take account of us having the steering on the correct side of the car an consequently they often don’t fit. Spending hours fitting a tubular manifold only to have to remove it again can be irritating. If I were the owner of Supersprint, I would take exception to someone blagging a pic off my web site, playing with it in Photoshop, and then posting it to promote another product.

If wobbling the key brings it back to life you probably have a faulty ignition switch. Don't buy a pattern one though; I have had nightmares with them. I tried eight from GSF on a Passat (same part) a few weeks back and gave up and ordered a genuine one for the next day-no dealer stock! The switch has changed number to a Polo number 6N0 905 865 which is £21.

The correct sender should have a white ring so that's OK. An 8v uses a sender with a black ring due to the cooler location. The VW part number is 049 919 563 A.

On the back of the head to the left of the dizzy and almost directly below the left rear (as looking from inside the car) cam cover gasket bolt, there is a small brass bodied sender with a 14-mm across flats spanner fitting and a small disc shaped connector with a green and black wire going to it. Above the spanner flats, there is a small plastic ring that is either black or white. Be careful when removing/refitting this sender as it is easy to snap them off flush and when removed, quite a lot of oil will run out. The thread is M10x1, non-taper.

PM me your e-mail address and I will see what I can do. I need the donor cars engine, chassis, gearbox and rear differential numbers

Do you just want the BFH engine wiring diagram or the whole car, the engine alone is 19 pages.

If they are flush it's drill and tap and maybe helicoil.

The oil temp sender is on the back of the head behind number 4, what colour is the plastic ring around the body under the connection disc?

Bin the leads and fit new ones.

Yellow/red

The G2 8v GTI rack has more assistance than a C rack and captive nuts for the G2 gear linkage mounting, that you won't need. The track rods on a C are also longer so it is a good idea to fit a pair of new G2 track rods (the left hand side needs to be set before installation) although you can shorten the originals but it's not recommended. I used a C G60 rack in my wife’s G2 and it feels much better than a normal G2 8v rack.

So it's got ABS!

That’s for reading MFA live data such as road speed, engine vacuum/boost, distance etc. The Corrado has no dynamic oil pressure sender apart from two switches, one for 0.3 bar (pressure to open) and one for 1.8 bar (pressure to close). There is wiring for a dynamic pressure sender but it is a rare option. I have a Corrado VR6 auto in at the moment with the OE option volts/oil press instruments in the centre consul.

That was one of the things that really annoyed me about the black keys and the later orange wing nut style; they had no indication on for anti clock soft, clockwise hard. There was a diagram in the instructions that said anti clock (pictorially) was Komfort and clockwise (again pictorially) was Sportlich. I used to get people asking which one was hard and which was soft.

What is the problem?

You have the adjuster design Weitec introduced before they were bought out by KW so they are at least five years old. These work differently to anything else you will ever have experienced. Adjusting them is easiest using a 7-mm ring spanner as what you are feeling for is a slight rubbery squeaky feeling through the spanner at minimum, which is anticlockwise, as the internal spring loaded clutch slips at the end of the valves adjustment. When you feel the clutch slip, keep turning the spanner until you have a visual reference to look down on and turning back from there, the maximum damping should be nine full turns at which point you will get the same clutch slip feeling again but maybe a little more distinctly. You can’t break them, that was the whole idea of the clutch as before they had a solid stop point. The only trouble was, as they work the opposite way around to a Koni, people often snapped the internals off by forcing the key.

I only use Textar (oe Porsche) pads as they are the correct thickness and have the self adhesive backing for the outer pad, clean if off for the inner pad. You need a special adapter hose to replace the original as the G4 caliper uses a banjo fitting.

I think one of the main reasons companies like this are failing is the pressure put on them by e-bay. There is no way a company like TSR can compete with their overheads against some bod selling tuning parts from their bedroom.

The Black Coating on the contact surface lasts for about 30 seconds. On the edge and on the bell it lasts for a few months. If looks are important, I mask off the edge and bell then spray it with VHT motorcycle barrel paint from Frost, http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... t%20(310ml) . I did this to the 280's on my Golf 2 ten years ago and it is still OK.

205/45 16 Uniroyal Rain Sport 1's

That just sounds like poor set up or a throttle body quadrant not touching the switch on closing due to a sticky throttle cable.

The Eibach pro kit is excellent but remember if your car is 94 onwards you will need early top plates as Eibach only make a spring with the 81-mm top coil. The Weitec VW001GT kit is an excellent alternative, not that I am biased or anything.