Crasher

OK, if you want to DIY that’s OK, it will cost less but take longer and you may need to buy some special tools. Firstly, you need to get a fault code report using something like VAG-COM so if this is not available to you really need to get hold of it, as guesswork can prove expensive. As your car is early and will not start, you should get a hall sender G40 fault code that may be truthful. To eliminate this you need a healthy battery. Get VAG-COM into the selection screen and then start cranking the engine constantly whilst setting VAG-COM into engine group 01 and then fault codes where you should get a truthful report. If I had to take a guess, I would say it is the hall sender in the distributor, as your car should have one being a 93. The fact that the car has had a coil pack is odd, maybe they meant the coil transformer unit as a coil “pack” normally means the 6-point unit on the side of the head. What is the chassis and engine number? Do not post these numbers, PM them as its personal info that could be abused. How about a picture of the nearside of the engine?

The hoses are all above the tank. The tank is easy to lower out. The straps unbolt quite easily and there are two 10-mm headed bolts up near the filler cap. You have to disconnect the fuel lines and wiring from the sender unit under the black disc on the boot floor.

Bio or non bio?

Get the car to someone who knows what they are doing!

I use a Gedore 30-mm 12 point impact.

Eibach are reasonably easy to live with and use Golf 4 GTI shortened front bump stops.

Almost incurable, my 83 G1 does it; my 88 and 89 G2's do it etc etc

Have you had a fault code read carried out?

You mean an ABF G3 loom don't you, not a 9A Corrado loom?

Buy a new one, cheaper than a new blower.

The valve is screwed into the neck of the fuel tank from the left as you look at it and is accessed from inside the wheel well. A though good pressure washing up there first will help. They are very reliable but occasionally do give problems. The valve is part number 191 201 136 A, upto 1991 and therefore is the same as a Golf 2. It is unlikely to be at fault and is difficult to check but easy and cheap to change. Do you experience difficulty filling the tank? I have seen quite a few early cars with collapsed breather hoses due to age and clamp rust but the tank has to be removed to check this.

I only use KS bearings with Sputter coating. VW don't list them anymore. They don't have piston pin lubrication holes as G60's don't use drilled rods.

KR's don't have a carbon canister venting system. It is probably a tank venting system fault, more than likely that little valve just inside the filler neck. Has the tank been out recently and is the cap a genuine VW item?

It is a contentious issue and has been for years and as far as I know there is no definitive answer, the black cap is a good one and the only explanation I have is it is a universal replacement. We go by the bottle cap colour and also the ledged on the bottle which tells you to use approved fluids (very helpful) and occasionally says nur (only) mineral or ATF fluid respectively. The general rule is all cars after 1992 use mineral. One thing though, I have never seen problems from using ATF. My wife’s G2 has used a late G60 rack with ATF for the last five years with no problems.

What version of VAG-COM? Check the idle valve in output tests. Check the throttle pot and damper adjustment by going into measuring blocks 003 where block 3 should show a value between 9 and 19 degrees. Are there any fault codes stored? Post a screen grab of measuring blocks 001.

I have a serial and a hex usb. I bought the 2x2 adapter when I bought my first VAG-COM cable about five years ago and I still use it with the USB cable.

Err sorry Supercharged but red cap means ATF Dexron II (red) and green cap means mineral!

2.9

What car is it? Has it got ABS?

Lower spec model TT's had 288's, like the 150PS.

If you were to order a new unit from VW, they would both be 035 145 401 C, infer from that what you will.

That can happen if the vacuum pipes to the throttle body (ECU and carbon canister) are the wrong way around.

Use the Weitec 001GT kit with Golf 4 GTI sports suspension front bump stops (1J0 412 303C off the top off my head, so don’t quote me) and shortened original rears. If your car is a 94 or 95, you will need early top plates at the front. This is quoted as being a 40-mm kit but it's more like 50-mm. The only set up I know that is better for normal day to day use is Eibach springs with the 40-mm shortened Weitec dampers.

The odd thing is that the original pipe from new was rarley 1000mm, often much shorter!

What is the fault code number?