Crasher

As CB says, check the "O" ring inside the cap, especially if you have the earlier black cap. The modified replacements are blue.

The coolant level sender in the bottles fail and say the coolant is low even when it isn't.

I agree with you about going back to standard cams and starting again.

"Corrado 53i 9/88- 40mm/70mm 18280005 £604.99", the (modified) cut and paste from their site and we give all club Corrado members a 5 percent discount as well so we are cheaper, although we shouldn't be. The agreed principle set out by KW UK was that all dealers would sell at the same price apart from offering their established discounts to clubs, that whole idea didn't take long to get forgotten.

This is what I was experiencing on a G60 conversion in a Golf (someone else’s work) that was doing this and it was driving me potty. The painful aspect was that the problem didn't show up on a professional ECU fault testing machine as I sent the suspect ECU to three different testing companies. In the end, I put the suspect ECU into another car that was running fine and it started to do the same over fuelling. The only way you will find out is by fitting another ECU to your car (risky) or by trying yours in someone else’s car where it can't do any harm, the preferred method. Try posting to see if anyone will help.

That would be telling! £595 inc VAT plus £14.95 P&P.

I have had a few G60 ECU's go faulty in this way recently. If you have a friend with a G60, try running your ECU on his car to see if it behaves the same. Don't put a good ECU onto a suspect car though as you may end up with two faulty ECU's. If your friend’s car behaves in the same way as yours, you know the ECU is playing up but before fitting a replacement, you need to know why it failed.

Supersprint manifolds are stainless and designed for LHD. They crack and let air in pre lambda sensor.

OK, that proves there is a connection between the sender and the control unit. The NTC sender should have a resistance of around 75 ohms when at around 100 degrees centigrade, so check that if you have a multimeter.

Make sure that the throttle body lever is touching the switch when the accelerator is released.

The switches are all the same except the one around the back of the head, which is for oil temperature and is part number 049 919 563 A and this had a white ID band whereas the others have a black band. The designated position for coolant temperature sensing for the idle control/over run cut off control unit in the centre consul is “A” in your picture and has a green/red wire. “B” is for the ignition ECU with a blue/white wire and “C” is for the instruments with yellow/red wire. To be honest, I have seen them in all combinations and it doesn’t upset the systems. Does the idle valve buzz with the ignition on and the engine not running?

A, B and C are the same part but that design of NTC temperature sender is no longer available. They were part number 027 919 501 but these have been supercceeded back to the old 049 919 501. To use these new design senders you have to open up the spade terminal so that it will fit around the disc. I insulate the back of the terminal to prevent it touching any earths if it should move. The idle switch part number is 027 133 061 A but beware as the last few I have had, came with the wiring outputs reversed and I had to swap around the terminals in the harness plug.

I forgot to ask what engine and if you have had the cat removed?

They are all different. The up to 92 valve is 035 133 455 F and was used on certain Audi 80/90/100/200 & Coupe’s and on Golf 2’s, Jetta’s, Scirocco’s and Passat’s with the KR 16v. These don't go wrong very often, what's the problem?

There is more than one Weitec distributor in the UK, like one that has been importing and plugging them for ten years.

That must be a seriously shot front mount; the engine must jump up when accelerating. Get a friend to observe the engine whilst you let the clutch in with the handbrake on. Please get your friend to stand to one side though.

Some systems, especially stainless, have a lot of oil used inside them to help with the cold forming process and this takes a long time to burn off.

The spring rates are different.

A minefield, it depends on your budget and if you can do some/all yourself. I would go for a stage 2 head (35-mm exhaust valves), ported standard manifolds (avoid tubular manifolds like the plague), a Piper BPG60270H cam, a 70-mm pulley and a Supersprint exhaust. If you want to go further than that, and one of the best modifications you can make to enable more power, fit a bigger intercooler to replace the tiny original. When you have made all the changes you want, have the car re-mapped (chipped) to match the other changes. Do forget to improve the suspension/brakes/wheels & tyres either before or at the same time as any power increases.

They won't work properly as they lack the end cap. You may be able to swap the end cap over if you are careful. They would work in a Mk1 though.

It's the rear dampers that are different. Manufactures of kits tend to use their Golf 1 rear units in coilover kits for the Rallye but if you buy a Corrado coilover kit now and have to change to Golf 1 rears when doing the conversion, as these things go, it will be a small part of the budget.

It depends on what make the bushes are but for example, Powerflex new design Golf 2 front wishbone rear bushes (203's) will not fit a Corrado even though the standard parts will, they need Golf 3 Powerflex front wishbone rear bushes (204's). The front bushes (201's) for the wishbone are the same on G2 and 3 and Corrado. New style front wishbones won’t accept old style rear urethane bushes so you need to know what you have. The rear axle bushes of all Corrado’s are the same as a Golf 2 except the VR6 which uses Golf 3 VR6 bushes.

The bolt should be new and lightly oiled.

Does the electic water pump work? Remove it and run it from a battery in some water to see if it pumps.

The grub screw should only be nipped up ever so slightly as there is a nylon ball underneath to prevent damage to the thread so it should come undone easily with a 3-mm allen key. Before moving the plate, scrub the threads down with degreaser and wash it all down with water and then spray the threads with some light lube such as WD40. Yes, down =down.