Crasher
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Everything posted by Crasher
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That is probably the starter clicking and if it was OK before I would suspect he hasn't reconnected the main body to engine earth cable or there is an earth fault to the engine/starter for some other reason.
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AOF 063 000 04, 250g tube, £6.71 from any VW dealer. It is used on the rack, the ends are sealed for life.
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You could do with reinstating the proper plug if the wires are long enough. You can order the plug and W
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Booked into Stealth for head rebuild, chains & tensioners...
Crasher replied to monzablau16v's topic in Engine Bay
Wouldn't an exchange VAG engine (late tensioners, metal gasket etc already done) make more sense at £2804.34 including VAT? At 135K ring wear is going to be a problem sooner or later. -
If the AG4 096 series box used in those cars goes wrong they are expensive to fix and they are well known for going wrong. There are three versions used in the Corrado, the CFA and APB which cost £1474.87 and the CFF which costs £2139.61, both prices include VAT and are genuine VAG exchange units but not fitted prices.
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We (C&R) have Goodridge sets on the shelf that are correct for a 90 onwards Corrado with 288's on the front using Golf 3 calipers. We also have them for 288's and 312's using Golf 4 calipers, the only difference being the thread pitch of the banjo bolt. We can also supply both kits with rear hoses for Golf 4 ally calipers.
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The ones in the Bentley manual are the closest and even those aren
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When you swapped the transponder box, did you change the chip in the key and recode the engine ECU to the new transponder box or use the matching ECU?
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The X current relief relay is at position 4 and has the number 18 printed on top but has no effect on engine running, it is for lights, wipers, heater blower etc.
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If you have black soot in the tailpipe to that degree then the cat isn't working and no fault codes should indicate that the lambda sensor is working. I would get a pre cat (via the sniffer port) C0 test and a post cat (via the tailpipe) Co test and compare the results. At idle I would expect a Co reading of around 0.8% at lambda 1 and at the tailpipe a Co of 0 or at least no more than 0.1%. What is your ECU number? I can give you some live data info to look at but I need the ECU number. When you are driving along at a steady speed, what is the engine temperature as seen by the ECU, displayed in measuring blocks 08, display group 001, display zone 2?
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N 900 801 02, 7.5x3.
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The ID is stamped on the ends.
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Sounds like no power to the line 15 circuit (which isn
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It should be there for the MOT and I can't see it passing without one. Personally I really don't like tubular exhaust manifolds for many reasons. The manifold used on the KR and 9A is prone to cracking and finding a used one without at least some internal cracking is difficult. Fitting a tubular manifold and de-cat is unlikely to gain you more than 3 or 4 PS on a 9A in my experience.
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We refer to it as 7-mm but VW refer to it as 7.5-mm.
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1. Same thing. 2. No. 3. No, thread lock stops it falling off as PS cars have no locking nut as on non PS cars. The old thread lock compound must be cleaned off the inner track rod joint thread and from inside the steering rack thread and new compound applied before refitting. If you are fitting a new track rod, thread lock should be applied before installation. 4. All power steering cars (all Corrado
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Oil Pressure Problem - choices, choices, choices!
Crasher replied to Dub_nut_g60's topic in Engine Bay
The white oil pressure switch is on the oil filter housing (yellow wire) and the brown switch (blue/black wire and now a blue switch) is on the charger oil feed outlet on the head. The oil filter housing also holds the oil temperature sender. -
Yes, the fan controller is responsible for the pump as well, the low rating fuse of the two blades fuses. Have you checked the strip fuse?
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So this is a VR6 auto. The sensor is for road speed and is located in the top of the gearbox.
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Have it fault code scanned as it is an AG4 type 096 electronic box and also check the ATF fluid level. Have a garage check the level of the final drive oil or do it yourself if you have access to a 17-mm hex (Allen) key and you can get the car in the air, but it must be level. If the final drive oil is above the fill level, you have a problem with the seal between the two sections of the box. This isn't too serious if the final drive oil is drained off and refilled and the ATF level topped up but you will need to have this done periodically.
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Oil Pressure Problem - choices, choices, choices!
Crasher replied to Dub_nut_g60's topic in Engine Bay
I thought this was a G60? -
Has the car got Diavia air con? I would change the fan control unit first but have you checked the strip fuse on the fan control unit?
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Pulley removal...sorted...Now, intermediate shaft removal
Crasher replied to mrbeige's topic in Engine Bay
You can buy 3036 (or any other VW tool) from a VW dealer, don't let them say no, they can get them for you for the next day and they aren -
Oil Pressure Problem - choices, choices, choices!
Crasher replied to Dub_nut_g60's topic in Engine Bay
You need 028 919 081 H (superseding 028 919 081 D on 01/03/2007) which is blue and rated at 0.25 bar (pressure to open contact) and this replaces your brown switch which is 056 919 081 C and is rated at 0.3 bar. The other switch you need is 056 919 081 (superseding 056 919 081 E on 01/04/2007), is white and rated at 1.8 bar (pressure to close contact) and this number supersedes 056 919 081 C but this was still rated at 1.8 bar. So blue 028 919 081 H and white 056 919 081. -
Pulley removal...sorted...Now, intermediate shaft removal
Crasher replied to mrbeige's topic in Engine Bay
Buy VW tool 3036.