Crasher

Out of the car and without the locking tool I can't think of a way of undoing that without an air gun, possibly even a 3/4" drive version.

I use NGK BKR5EKU.

Take off the inspection panel on the boot floor and remove the fuel level sender ring on top of the tank after disconnecting the wiring and pipes. Pull the sender out and the lift pump is attached to the bottom. The main system pump is under the car. You disconnect the fuel pressure line and remove three (probably very rusty) screws that hold the pump in. In all of this, you are working with raw fuel so be very careful. When you remove the main system pump, about half a gallon of fuel is stored inside the reservoir. If you pull the main pump first, the tank may drain down through siphon effect so clamp both hoses off that go to the tank sender.

VAG say G12+ is for life (there used to be a coolant called Forlife) which really means ten years. As most modern VAG products run the cam belt on the water pump, it will get changed ever four years anyway, hopefully!

Which Golf 2, which Corrado?

On what?

We have gone over to G12+ completely, just keeping G11 and G12 for topping up systems. If we do a change, we go over to G12+ and mark the coolant tank to show this has been done. G12+ can mix with G11 but G12 can't.

It is worth selling them on but be careful when removing them due to fuel spillage and if you post them, you need to thoroughly seal them in a few layers of plastic bags. The main one holds quite a lot of fuel and you will not be popular if it leaks during shipping.

It depends on the engine but a G60 has the big main power to the M8 stud/13-mm nut and a red/black wire to the 50 terminal which is the one behind the solenoid adjacent to the gearbox, not the terminal behind the radiator.

Take off the cap and look at the thin top edge of the distributor body where the cap sits. On this edge you will find a small notch cut in to the surface. This is for number one cylinder and so if you make a mark on the body of the dizzy, when you put the cap back on, you can see which pole of the cap this corresponds to. Then, on the side of the dizzy, there is an arrow which points in the direction of rotation the rotor arm rotates. Follow this around to the next pole of the cap and that pole is for number 3 cylinder, and then the next is number four and finally number 2, so the order is 1, 3, 4, and 2.

Your car must be a late Corrado VR6, made after the 30/09/94. The lambda probe up to chassis wvwzzz50zSK000719 is VW number 021 906 265 A and Bosch number 0 258 003 267. After chassis number wvwzzz50zSK000720 it was VW number 021 906 265 E and Bosch number 0 258 003 575 which was superseded by 0 258 003 604.

Are you sure it isn't just the tank vent valve behind the air cleaner?

Dinkus, I was referring to the internals of the transmission when you change the bell (clutch) housing.

Nothing like what?

Are you judging this from a volt meter and does the charging light work?

The alternator also drives the rev counter on the AAZ Umwelt TD engine which is what I imagine you have so if the light is on and the rev counter doesn

You would have either an AYK or CGY box and you could use the AGC and CES as well. These were all used in Passat

Was the realy 3 you changed (30 on top, 165 906 381) new or used?

I think it is in Bentley, anyway see the pic. Ohh, wire diameter 0.8-mm.

The clutch (bell) housing is also different and there are two different types between £293.32 and £310.76. Also, when changing the clutch housing the transmission has to be re-shimmed but that isn’t as hard as it sounds. Some special VW tools are required for this job.

Check the wiring to the throttle switch and to the lambda sensor plug on the engine mount bracket. It may just need setting up.

Mars red 80 is the VW colour name.

Found it but it has two very tiny scratches in the red lettering, one on the D and one on the C (it is Mass Red 80 I think) and slight dulling of the silver in two tiny spots on the left. £20 and £5 for postage?

You take out the lower rear sensor and replace it with the specific coolant temp sender from the 9A head. You keep the front lower one from either the KR or 9A for the dash gauge and put the 9A M10x1 hex cap head bungs in the upper two holes or leave the sensors in there but not connected.

The new ones are quite interesting with blue and red writing but daft money at £60. I made a balls up when building up an exchange engine for a customer and ordered a new one twice, make me an offer? (if I can still find it).