Crasher

Not his idea of having fun!

Very perceptive of you, that is the second spoiler since it came out of paint. The original 90-mm unit lasted from the paint shop (we use three different companies for different types of work) to our shop which is about 1.5 miles and it was hammered by all the speed bumps. That is a new genuine 50-mm item with soft face additive in the paint to help reduce the acne.

I posted about this car a while back as he was going to sell it after thousands of £'s spent but he decided to keep it and we have just finished the paint. The wheels are going to change to 16" RH MG Concept. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfabove.pdf[/attachment:ec4fa]ept. climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdffront.pdf[/attachment:ec4fa] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfside.pdf[/attachment:ec4fa] rear.pdf[/attachment:ec4fa]

Whatever you do to increase or decrease fuelling by altering the air flow meter, the ECU will alter it back to where it thinks it should be, based the voltage from the lambda sensor. From the fact it has an air flow meter rather than an air mass meter, it is a 2E and unfortunately the diagnostics are pretty poor on these, especially early ones and they often won't communicate with VAG-COM. A common fault on the 2E that gives the symptoms you are suffering is failure of the throttle potentiometer on the back of the throttle body but before replacing this you should have this confirmed with a fault code read if possible. On some later software versions of the 2E ECU, there was limited live data output where the operation of the throttle pot could be observed.

And get a fault code read done.

What engine is this, 2E, ADY or AGG? The problem is likely to be the cat bypass itself. When the cat is removed, the lambda sensor starts to run too cool and gives an inaccurate signal due to the big glowing red hot monolith just behind it having been removed and this has always been a problem. Try putting the cat back on and see what happens. It is possible to fit a lambda sensor with a more powerful heater but these require a controller relay and upgraded wiring to the lambda sensor.

Hammer an M8 multihex (inner CV joint) key in or even a Torx if that fails. If not, out with the drill.

Check the two wire connector on the lower coil connections with a green and a red/black wire, they often get pulled off and you can't see them.

The POR 15 is excellent and gives a beautifully deep smooth gloss. I give the block two coats with a few days drying time in between each. It is important not to run the engine for at least a week after application or it melts and runs like crazy. I use a hot air gun to speed up the drying after it has flashed off overnight. I have tried many engine paints over the years and this is the best but it is harder work.

Fault code read first.

Fault codes, don't make me laugh. When was the last time you saw a VR6 conversion where they had made the diagnostic sockets available?

What grade/type of oil are you usin?

It probably just needs setting up. I wrote a guide on this for The Golf + about this a couple of years ago. If you PM me your email address I will email it to you.

Don't worry, you just come across as being American and us Brits are used to it :)

Don't use synthetic oil for 10K miles, keep the revs below 4000 for 1K miles but don

Quiz, AAA is a 2.8 engine, the 2.9 is ABV. So from your other post you are in the US so thats normal for US spec.

A fault code read first but probably the ECU has water damage.

I have just had one like this, it came in with a blown aux pump spraying water out, then it blew the head to matrix hose on me, then the matrix blew when that was replaced and so I did a pressure test and found 2.5 bar system pressure! A new head gasket has sorted it and from what we could see, it had only been done recently. Get the cooling system pressure measured and also checked for combustion gases with either a chemical test or a Co meter.

What idle throttle valve angle are you getting in measuring blocks 08, sub group 03 block 2-I think, from memory. Also, what is the idle speed?

The sole control of idle air on the 9A is via the ISV (unlike a KR which has an air bypass) so if you disconnect it, it will stall anyway. The management system may just need setting up so a fault code read and a set up by someone who knows 9A's and has the kit /info to set them up would be a good investment.

If the car is right hand drive the A/C condenser will be Diavia as VW never made a Corrado with A/C in right hand drive and Diavia (Dana group) aren't very helpful. Check the Diavia thread for some links that may help but I tried to get a Diavia condenser replaced recently and I had it repaired in the end. The only company who would help basically said send it to use and we will make a new one for around £500.

If you have an Ultra GT suspension kit the rear spring plates can be lowered to alter the ride height.

There is really nothing to splice into apart from a power and earth, the 16v has a very simple engine loom with very little of use to you with the conversion. If you PM me your email address I can send you a 90 spec 16v wiring diagram and if you tell me what the donor harness/ECU/engine came from, the wiring diagram for that as well.

It will all bolt in, the subframe etc is the same as is the fuse box but it is not a sensible conversion, if you want a 16v-buy one ready made. If you want to do a conversion on this car, fit a 1.8T.

Do you mean the pipe into the back of the head?