dannyboy

Just fitted a 3 box Jetex exhaust last night on my G60 as it'll also be used when i convert engine to 1.8t as its 63.5 mm system.The top end is much less restricted as it freely revs up to the redline without beening held back.The midrange feels a little flatter now prob due to the top end been freed up were i was losing power. It was very quiet last night when i ran it up for the first time,even quieter than my original diesel sounding exhaust. Just after giving the car a shakedown on the autobahn a few minutes ago and the exhaust note has changed to slight boomy sound when on idle,not loud-just louder than original.Not intursive in the cabin,barely audible inside but deffo deeper than yesterday. Im presumming this is normal as the absortion material is probably setting in now but have you guys ever noticed it?

Yep its the proper way. removing blue temp sender puts the ecu into 'emergency mode' which is the same as maintance mode revving the engine three times over 3,000 rpm cancels the hot idle function The resistance checking of the CO pot is only a guideline figure.The proper way is the one set above using exhaust gas analyser.Some need to be set rich,others lean.Every engine is different in terms of wear,running and balance.Mines set at 765 ohms and can pass a CAT test without one!!! my CO reading on my MOT week ago was 0.24% even though i dont have a cat on(1990)

I suppose you have to remember that the corrado was a money loss for VW and its now over 20 years old. Manufactures legally only have to stock parts upto 20 year point and then your on your own. I agree with fishwick,parts are expensive to manufacture and make profit on(its a business afterall) so until the demand is high enough and a company is willing to take the risk to put the part into production.I just dont believe in buying chinese copy though,sodds law what happens when you use them.Only as a last resort!!! On the flip side,VW should have a bit more interest in their heritage.The GTI is the icon that still lives today and one of their selling points so why neglect the one that made it happen for them?Simple,Money.Older cars dont earn enough for them.If its not going to make big money,they dont want to know!

have you lowered your car?if so its probably the CV joints might be worn and the free play is only showing when driving normal straight.That usually indicates inboard joints. only proper way to check is take them off. Wheel bearings drone and rumble as they wear,if they knock then something is very wrong with them.

No worries boys,give us a shout next time and ill fire up the barby with few cold beers

Do you need an adpator plate to fit the seat brake calipers?

Welcome fellow,get ready for the ups and downs of owning a G60.Nice paintwork

29 euro a month protected no-cliams(used once this year on the nurburgring) for myself and the wife. The 225 ps 1.8t engine im dropping in the bay isnt going to cost me a cent extra!!!!!!! Result!!

inbetween hamburg and hannover on the 7. Did you guys drive drive over? You have to have driven on the 2 Just going to invite you boys around for a beer!

withdraw the ciggy lighter from panel,you'll see where it goes if it has the screw mounting points.Mine dosent have them ---------- Post added at 05:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:34 PM ---------- sorry scratch that,you got VR6? Heres a very nice link http://www.dubdesignindustries.com/installation/oilvolt.pdf

:shocked!: at pic number two that is extremely dangerous and that shouldnt be on the road,Not to sound horrible dont drive the car til its repaired. Report the guy who sold you the car and the test center who gave the MOT. You will lose control of the car if it fails which by the look of the pics isnt far away.God forbid what happens then

You boys still in germany?(jim and supercharged)?

I swore i remember seeing something about a loose wire for the immobiliser was causing engine to turn off. Could be one of the wires loose somewhere

Think its mostly the sidewalls are softer so theres more give in the front when going into the corner,it grips but bounces more than a solid walled tyre hence a bit more nervous ride. this bounce is probably cause rear bushes to act bck and forward not giving solid rear steer.the thread has got abit harder but not much.Its been four months since i put them on,theyre lasting quite a bit even using them as daily so not all doom and gloom.Ive put uniroyals all-round now just to make sure the back stopped twiching but didnt help much Bottom line,uniroyal rainsport 2 are brilliant as a everyday daily with the bonus have having brilliant grip in the rain and longlativity.quite comfortable too. But not very good as a sports tyre if you use them on track or fast road cornering

Id think you'd be better off going with new/secondhand one cause it'll be nearly impossible to get the frame geometry right again and youll spend alot more money doing so than buying the frame outright.If it was me id know what id do,but thats just me. as alex said,the sub-frame is pressed metal and not very thick so welding may very well warp it and leave you with not only bendy frame but one that still isnt structurely sound as i dont like the idea of welding load bearing metal as it can still fail. if the MOT center cant see the crack they cant condem it,however repairs to chassis and crossmember should be closely examained.Did you bring it for an MOT or did he have it done?

Using fibre glass to cover cracks in a sub-frame,what a :cowboy: A large pothole or fatigue over time could have snapped either side of the subframe lauching you into oncoming traffic or wiping out a load of pedestrains. Anyone person that does stuff like this should be dry bummed with a pineapple

Just loosen the hinge bolt on top and bottom of the door and it adjusts a bit.prob better to have someone help you as rado door weight a bit!!

I just call my G60 my second wife,shes unpredictable like my 'normal' wife.I swear she has moody days bit like PMT. :lol:

your fueling is off,usually caused by a g60 leaning out ,which would also explain the higher oil temp.Prob due to too much timing advance But stainless downpipes will glow quite a bit,just other problem is amplifing it

doesnt sound like your injectors are the problem,injectors can run for quite a bit(mine were 375,000 km on my old g60 and they got punished) especially is only started happening again. Sounds like trigger wire from ECU to the Coil is coming loose or harness on the ecu has a loose connector.Could even be the hall sender to ecu feed wire. All this sounds like is youve got a loose wire somewhere,your job is to find it.

Yes it is one complete part upto the engine bay. it runs through hole in the chassis and ends in engine bay where it re-attaches to rubber fuel hose. Mines leaking slighty on the part where the metal and plastic pipe meet.I cant get them for a g60 but maybe you can get them for VR6. Dont think theres any difference...might take look in the dealers tomorrow ---------- Post added at 07:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ---------- i think you can seperate them but you have to destroy the metal crimp and the rubber pipe to get it off.Then you could put a spring clip on a new piece of rubber pipe on the plastic connection.but id see if you could buy whole pipe first

Think problem with the qpeng kits is it doenst cater properly for the stratified injection,which is basicly as said what gives this engine its edge. you need to run proper CANBUS to use it properly which most companies filter out sensors and drivers.Basicaly you end up with a direct injection 2.0t,nothing more. Yes it is very indepth wiring but thats whats needed to run modern electrics.Its pretty much down to-You get what you pay for!! Engine mounts now are mounted to the chassis legs rather than the subframes to reduce engine vibration and engine/gearbox movement,putting them in older mk2 frames is always going to cause problems as engines were subframe mounted in mk2s and mk3s but thats easier task compared to the wiring An company that removes fail-safes such as knock sensors in their looms,I WONT touch with a 10 foot barge pole.Thats asking for trouble

yeah mines LHD so it think it might be a bit different,like the servo+master cylinder are over the gearbox rather than up-against the cambelt cover which on RHD is a bit of a b&ll ache so ive heard Im going to fit the brake switch as my ecu will flag a fault if it doesnt see the switch but i dont need the clutch one.My APX isnt fitted with cruise control,made me feel sad yesterday when i found out,was hoping to use it

quite a bit of fabbing to do- the mount is in the way of the turbo.the electrics are a nightmare to rewire so so the high pressure fuel system but it can be done and has been.

Al ive taken the pedal box off without taking steering column off,it is a massive b&ll ache.But it will come out with a bit of wriggling Im going DBW and pedalbox off my older g60 raddo came in handy as well as the G1 and G2 connectors Heres pics