dannyboy

Does anyone know which PAS pump to use on the 20vt? G60 is offset quite a bit and destroyed one trying to adjust it! so VR or g60 ones are a no-go.Think theyre 52mm ones Looking at several at the moment, golf mk2 pumps look correct(41mm offset) or golf mk4 1.4 one like this http://cgi.ebay.de/Servopumpe-VW-Lupo-6N2-Golf-4-1-4L-44KW-Bj02-/310303614228?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item483f896514 also added bonus of the feed pipe beening straight rather than bent at an angled elbow and clearing crossmember although i thought golf mk4 pumps were banjo bolt unions.Cant be that big a job to swap the threaded union inside the pump for raddo one so the orignial hard pipe can fit.Or am i barking up the wrong tree?

The phantom battery drainer, what a brilliant game that is. Found mine in the end,turned out to be the booth light staying on

on my other g60,the sunroof also closed with the windows.Think the foldable mirrors are by hand unless later models had electric ones? Cheers david,im going to the stealers tomorrow and ill check out if it works using relay 99 on older raddos.should do if the relays the only difference

Cheers lads,i know jims not winding me up.Early rados just have the single 5 second delay relay.Mines a 1990 g60 so stuff is a little hazy as it was between changeover period.Like it has the in-tank fuel pump fitted to newer models but has a older moto-meter display for checking boost(values are different on moto than VDO) Might dig a little more and see if i can find out little more on it.

early g60s dont have it then,they just have a five second delay relay just tried it, doesnt work on my g60,later cars have it? My german doesnt extend to books yet! :lol:

You sure your not winding me up??? :silly: how did you find that out? I only found out the corrado had heated side mirrors accidently by turning rear screen heater on three years ago!

120 kph for me,thats how the cops know im speeding! ---------- Post added at 08:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:57 PM ---------- Is that a sarcasim or do they actually have that?

is the thread biting then spin or will the thread not bite at all?

need to do bit of fault finding then Check to see if your getting 12v to that wire with multimeter. you'll need someone to turn the ignition. To see if the stater is working-be careful with this one Get a small length of wire and bridge from the large postive on the starter to the small solenoid connection.starter should turn

I remember reading your thread kip,you only done it a while ago didnt you?

Hey,thats no way to speak about alexs car!!! :lol:

check the small red wire that goes to the solenoid,lot of starter problems down to this wire coming loose or broken connection

Oil temp is far too high!! I only got to 150 degrees oil temp when i dropped my coolant on the nurburgring in May and didnt realise.No coolant,oil temp went to 150 dregrees and oil pressure warning buzzer started to buzz. at that temp your oil will break down very fast and oil will be very thin causing wear on metal to metal surfaces,ie NO OIL PROTECTION Are you sure the guages arent beening a bit screwy? a engine with that temp wont run right. You need to check youve got coolant in your system,otherwise youve got big problem

Yeah the gearbox mount on VR is the same shape as the rear engine mount.Four cylinders have different rear engine mount as it sits in a v-groove rather than cylinder shaped mount

That is the old headlight dim-dip resistor when sidelights are turned on before starting the car it would bring the dipped beams on dim. Think it was a legal requirement for uk in 1987 or around that time.Dont think their needed anymore as lighting regs have changed.So long as your side works,dipped beam and full beam with a correct beam pattern and correct wattage there is no reason why it wont pass without it! Dont even think MOT inspectors check it anymore as i think its obsolete.

sweet,thanks for the advise,anything worth noting?ie being gentle with some parts?ive got shovel hands being a big bloke! p.s used to work in the cornmarket inn in town

Cheers kip,ill give it a bash on a spare busted abs first and then strip the one i have in the car.ive tested the ABS system few times and it it was fine.pulses through pedal and wheel judders when abs kicks in.Any special tools needed buddy? OT, how is sailsbury these days?lived there for three years. RW1 cheers dude,glad you clarified that cause now now i can order one as i have a LHD raddo.

as as general rule of thumb- Bleed calpier biggest distance from the resevior first,rear left on rhd,then rear right,front left and front right.then you can be certain theres no air in the system. Sometimes you need to press the brake down hard and fast to get rid of the air as the fluid can get past the air bubbles at times witout removing them if you pump slowly.Just something ive picked up bleeding brake systems

X2 as above!

its a crossed circut so front left comes out on the rear right. The bias valve SHOULD send fluid to both rears calpiers EQUALLY but if theirs air in the lines it will effect front and back differently on different sides.

im pretty sure lemforder top mounts are good quailty if not OEM for lot of Vag models now.I know skoda VRS use lemforder bushes and mounts and never heard complaints about them. What do you think guys?

160 ps(158 bhp) at the flywheel as standard,not the wheels anything under 70mm pulley should be touching 180-190 chip depending at the flywheel If someones put a dump valve on a g60,he should be slapped!It serves no purpose. Superchargers run bypass valves because theyre always make more boost than engine can handle even on idle. Sounds like a lemon,id steer clear just because some muppet has owned it.God knows what else is wrong with it! ---------- Post added at 12:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:11 PM ---------- as said you might be mistaking bypass venting to atomsphere which sounds like a dump valve but hisses on idle

thanks anyway for searching man. found pumps on ebay.hope they work! its not a problem,just takes longer for the light to go out when i leave the car for a while so pressure resevior must be back leaking slighty when the engine is turned off. doesnt effect braking just more of an annoyance

pin 11 on back of the display should be thin red wire goes to U2 on the back of the fuse/relay box ---------- Post added at 09:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:08 PM ---------- pin 11 display goes to pin 11 on U2 connetion on the fusebox