mattnorgrove

Excellent, been contemplating this for a week, the passenger side is gonna live on top of the under dash tray below the glovebox, but I've been unsure where to mount the drivers side one. Cheers for that! :D P.S. How much is involved in removing the instrument cluster once the front surround is out?

Cheers, I'll give it a whirl. Its a digital meter, so presumably the reading would be 0 with the probes apart and then should see some kind of reading when touched together or measuring through the elements? Thanks again....

Which setting would i use and which values should i look out for? All I'm good for with a meter is checking for voltage... :oops:

Noticed the rear is not heating up and clearing the screen. Metered the spade terminals and got voltage there with the switch up front switched on so fuse and switch are fine. Checked all the elements for breaks very closely, including where they join the edge strip, all looks fine. Does anyone know if the boot lock mech has some kind of switch which may be affecting the operation with the boot closed? I metered with the rear hatch open BTW. Any ideas anyone? This is the only little niggle left and really want to get it sorted... As ever, thanks muchly in advance... :D

I don't know if the Xenons are to blame or the ride height of the Range Rover. They should, by law, have a much steeper dip on the dipped beam I reckon. Know exactly what you mean though, blinding. 8)

Yep, you gotta love a singing dog! Made me chuckle. :lol:

Yeah, tried that, also tried kinda moving the dial up/down/left/right etc when turning. Checked the copper contact rail, it is contacting, but not tried cleaning the contacts yet. Another little job for saturday... :D

the thermal fuse issue causes the fans to only work on speed 4 as the resistor pack and thermal fuse are bypassed on speed 4, if its not working on speed 1 it will be a switch or resistor pack issue. Yeeah it was only working on 4, now just 1st speed won't work, I'm assuming the resistor pack is the part of the blower motor where I changed the thermal fuse? Pretty sure its not the switch so may need to change the blower motor. Then again, may just leave as is.... :D

Saturday: Fitted new Alpine Ipod head unit 8) New amped 6x4's and audioscape sub enclosure required now. Thermal fuse repair on the heater motor. :D Still only got speeds 2,3&4 :( Looking at the heated rear screen this weekend, and change a bulb in the centre knob for the heater illumination....

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Ha! :lol:

Andy, don't sink to her level. It's exactly what she wants by the sound of it. She could use the scathing reply she deserves to her own advantage. Making you look like the very person she is depicting you to be. Don't play into her hands. As you say take the moral high ground. Whatever will be will be might sound cliche, but at least you'll know you conducted yourself with dignity. Hope this all sorts itself out for you, really can't imagine what this must feel like for you.

Cheers for that DEL, will probably leave it for a while anyway, as its all brand new underneath, dont want to waste whats on there already. I reckon you're right about never looking back, the thing just keeps making me smile. :D

Couldn't let this one get away! I was hours off getting an Ice Grey Violet, also mint, and was JUST pipped to the post, so I was all over this one like a rash! Loving the colour too, very nice in bright sunshine! 8) Really don't wanna mess with the comfort of the ride, slammed the valver and it really pissed me off in the end. If theres a kit that can lower a little, 35mm say, and retain all the comfort, I'd probably go for it. I know a lot of folks go for th Koni/H&R combo, does this retain original ride quality/comfort? Had a good look through the suspension discussion thread, but there's too much in there to gain a definitive answer I think... So what would folks recommend? :D

You make it sound so easy Rob, wish I had the facilities/confidence to attemp a job of that scale... Out of interest, anyone know the official service interval for the chains/tensioners? Been told 120-130k depending on service history. This sound about right?

Cheers! :D

Well I finally did it and moved up from the valver to the VR6 you see below! The valver served me well for the 2 years I owned her, but this is in another league. As you can see, she's a '95 VR6 in Aqua Blue Pearl (LC5U), with black cloth interior. 104k, FVWSH, 2 owners from new, owned by a surgeon for the last 9 years and he has spared no expense maintaining her at VW Main Dealers in Kent. Immaculate condition inside and out, really is not a single mark on her anywhere. Totally standard, all the electrics work (including the sliding sunroof). Couldn't stop smiling on the 170 mile trip home, gotta say, she was worth the journey. I'll add more pics when the weather allows, want to treat her to a Megs 3 step treatment first, but for now, here she is... :D

8) Me TOO! 8) :lol: Me 3!

Great vid! Not seen this before, cheers for posting it up Yan! Noticed the side repeaters, and the VDO's but dunno what the last one is....

Bloody hell Therapor you've not been on here for a while. Bad time to mention the dirty red's run of bad luck? Toffees forever

Without the stripes maybe. With, definitely not.

I run Borbet C's, 16" x 7.5" offset ET35, with a 40mm drop, never rubs and fills the arches to perfection (IMHO).

Agreed, recently paid £8 for a Maplins jobbie, but its decent build quality, long leads, and a rubber protective case, should do everything you'll need (continuity, resistance, voltage, impedance etc) Can't fault it for the money...

The downpipe on the 1.8 runs into the front silencer which sits where the cat on a 2.0 would, so I reckon it would be do-able. Dunno if the mounting holes for the different hanging brackets are there in the floorpan or not though. A few self tappers should hold it up? :lol:

Must've been a shock seeing that 2 appear. After calming down though I think i'd be quite proud, every cloud and all that?