GazzaG60

i could do with a diff in it thats for sure. the rest is sorted. mixing in a subaru based community changes your perception of fwd handling. my main fun point, the 65mm is also my downfall. too much low down. i fancy a change in delivery so am going for a top end monster.

274 is a great figure. way way more than me n my G60 isn't any good at all in the wet n being right next to the penines in oldham it pisses down loads. i love my G60 its been super but i want more revs and better flow up top. im a fair bit down the the crazy route kev mentioned

The factory look isn't an issue to me its all about getting more power out of it. id rather spend a couple of grand on a bespoke setup than half that just improving on what i have. its known a 16vt can produce in excess of 500hp a G60 runs out at around 300. valves certainly help drivability. the charger revving its nuts off on the motorway is the bit that really made my mind up.

gotta agree on the speed thing darren. no point overstressing the G. my 65mm is for me the limit on a 145k charger. id go 62mm but im crazy. im getting lots of belt slip now too (old belt) top props for keeping the G alive. it sure is a lovely engine even if it aint the most powerful

The bit that gets me is how much is it worth using with a Glader and its somewhat limited airflow. i must agree the counter flow 8v is the restriction but the charger is the limitation i think. the head can be sorted and stay strong whereas the chargers are getting older and are more prone to wear. i think it would help the red top setup though to help get rid of the static rich point. any pics of the porting job daz

intersting. so many differing opinions isnt there on 16v head flows. in not sure for myself. all i can go on really is mk2 16v engines. E/F plates are faster top end than later ones. maybe due to head or manifold or both. not sure all heads will bolt up to the blocks etc in the same ways so they cant be that much different and i bet the differences are ironed out with porting.

16v is only slightly less than a 20v. due to it being NA its quite a bit less on the exhaust side though a early kr is the best than a abf. so im told. im using a kr head on my new project but with a heavy port job taking the inlet to around 140 and exhaust to around 115 to 120. as you know its all about flow. cncheads in stockport are the guys. they got flowcharts on their website. apparently they did the original eurospec heads too for the yanks to copy. 20v is without doubt the best FI head but a 16v takes some beating bang for buck. i like the torque from the 8v but it gets hard to put down after a bit and its hard to fit a big turbo to

Henny a std 16v head flows 117 at the inlet and 91-92 at the exhaust so thats more in my book. those figues are for std valves on 8v though. i stand corrected. i read again. thats 16v not 8v

so basically a standard 16v head flows better than a ported, flowed big valve 8v head

my jabba charger build did 30k or so with 5k on A 65MM. Ive since rebuilt it with the help of h100 vw and done a further 15k or so on it on the 65mm. no issues.

im told the new one is designed by a alfa designer or somfink like that. i wouldn't buy a new one. old ones much better.residuals are shite too.for 5 grand you can get a lot now. id either buy a uk spec or a sti and remap it instantly. a 96 motor will do 360hp with just more boost and a system. need fcd and afr to be safe though. sti engines are far better than uk but only as good as the tuning. ive seen many a popped sti/wrx engine new and old and its down to the fuel more than not. i must say ive thought about getting one. theres no way a c can put down the power like a sub. looks though and interior are another thing.

lets get one thing straight. HP dont mean shit. its torque that is the important factor and how low it comes in. after all HP is a calculated figure based on torque. I have the problem that henny has with wheelspin even on the 17's. FWD needs an engine that develops the power slightly higher than a G60 for optimum. look at the hondas. they make piss poor torque but will drag it out for 9k or so. add a turbo and its an almost unbeatable combo and with traction to boot

get a screwdriver on the rocker cover and listen around for any tappet noise. if its on decel around the 2k mark it may be the rod bearings.

you wont notice any improvements on just a squirter change. the engine has been mapped by VW as standard to run on those injectors properly. Yuo will need a different map to drive bigger or smaller injectors. unless you have made any modes i wouldn't bother. i run red tops with a [email protected] with a 65mm pulley. even on the 65 id say its borderline that you need a bigger injector depends on other mods. speak to bilal@sns. he's a good guy who will point you in the right direction. i went in this order. exhaust and filter- more sound than power bigger intercooler 65mm, red tops, 3.5bar reg. boost return mods, breathers get a good front engine mount too if you plan boost upgrades.

i use a pressure bleeder from motive products. good kit. i always have issues with pressure after a bleed. somehow the brakes pressurise after a few days properly. i have found that sometimes i have to turn on the ignition and press the pedal for all the air to come out of the abs unit.

for what it costs its not worth it. you gotta be able to fit and run the charger the pipe it and cool it. itll cost quite a bit for the bang you get.

SNS all the way. good service and always willing to help with problems and new ideas

blue temp switch there are 2 switches on the water pipe from the head. 1 blue 1 black. swap the plugs over so its blue to black and try again. if it runs then replace the switch. if that fails unplug the 02 sensor at the harness. its behind the inlet manifold under the clutch cylinder. its a 4 pin plug rectangular shape. unplug and try again. if it starts and runs you have a 02 circuit problem. see other posts for testsing lamda/02 sensor

see the wire thats isolated at the end (bottom on your pic) thats signal. the one you are on ther is either ground or a power wire.

just thought id raise awareness of possible wrong item issues. twas an honest mistake rectified many times since. :wink: :)

make sure you get the right pump. ive had the wrong one and its a PITA (cheers Gav)

just had to stick it in for response from the VR gang. cast a line and you are gonna get a bite everytime.

sorry guys, theres no way after at least a billion squillion cars are made that a corrado makes top 5 on sound

Henny - i agree a big open area is best but you can only use the tools you have ie roads(private) and the results of road v RR are totally true not "kinda" the difference is that much .2bar on my mates scoob with the T04R is 80lbsft. deff the difference between pop and no pop the air at 70-140mph is many times different both in terms of intercooler/chargecoller temps and also ambient air than a fan can give at the rollers. Once again i must agree bilal@sns is the man. i use the more off the shelf type chip and its been fine for me, a tad rich but otherwise ok.

rolling road tuning is a tad misleading. when ive tuned the LinkECU on the scoobie i do it on the road (private of course). i was maxing the standard injectors at around 1.2-1.3bar. using a Apexi avc-r i had to wind in a lot more solonoid duty(enough for 1.55 bar) just to hit the same figures on the rollers. its all airflow and temperature related. if we would have run the rolling rd map on the road it would have gone lean and melted as scoobies do. id tune on the road anyday over the rollers. you dont drive on the rollers so you? having said that gavins car did go pretty well and chipwizards reputation has been good for years.