GazzaG60

the rev limitation on a tuned G60 doesn't help things either. need a first and second from a vr in G60 box. from what i can gather they are slightly taller and final drive may be different too. first and second are cast as one unit i believe.

i was always gonna go with 30# injectors when i upgraded. whether i needed um or not due to age on normal injectors and not wanting to run lean at any point. for what they cost its neither here nor there. people spend twice what i did on injectors for a induction kit on many jap chunks so... i tend to dismiss chip type now as id expect everyone to go sns even if its for nothing more than the no-lag. id get everything from bilal. theres a lot to be said for a single supplier(it industry experience talking) and he has everything. Id get 65mm belt red tops sns chip 3.5fpr from bilal job sorted. get any other issues sorted first though.

1 and 3 are the ohm levels for fuel. pin 2 is temp. the co-pot trims fuel according to this setting. IIRC 550 is default standard setting. meaning that 225 is rich. mine is set to IIRC 800 so im lean. this is all according to standard spec. however it may be right at 225. its just richer than standard setting. on the standard chip i was set to 427ohm and that seemed ok.

perhaps thers this perception and i have to admit it i share it from time to time that hitting 60 in second will mean traction issues aint there as the gearing is longer. G60 does have poor 1st n seconf though. id like it taller too. what happens is if you are going from a standstill you get smoked in a G60 through fist n second and have to rely on third and maybe top of second to smoke people. playing catch-up aint fun.

that car used to be blue i think. it used to run other 993?? split rims. its got a VR turrbo under it. it belongs to a german geezer who works for VW. i think thats the one that did just over 200mph on the wolfsburg track

my 65mm i got from bilal. what you tend to see is that the US is in front of us. so when we regard a 68 as safe the yanks were on 65 and some 62s. some now run the suicide 58 pulley. SNS have been doing this for a while. Sam run a 62mm on a 135k engine and charger unrebuilt for a while. he then put NOS on it and ran i think around 240hp and 320lbsFT at the wheels. strong old beasties the G60 engine. What id do is this. Get a good port job done on the charger to lower its internal pressures and flow better. get a new timing belt(wide) and a new belt and fit the pulley of choice. peeps say ooooh dont fit a 65mm itll blow. what i say is this understand the risks fit what you want. look after it a charger with a 68mm will blow too. its like the passive smoking to smoking debate. whos gonna die first. id rather die sooner and get full benifit than die a little later and not benifit as much if you get my drift, i hope i think i know its not gonna die or i would have took a 68mm. i would like to know the difference between the 2. i may get a 68mm and give it a try. time for a brew

mine goes 10 then builds to 17. i get between 7 and 10 whenever i dump throttle instantly. im running 65mm. its better on boost build. i found on the std one that it built but didn't take off till 4500rpm or so. then till 6. now i never rev over 5500 and it comes in around 2000 properly.

cali is astrange place with lots of couter productive things like 91 RON and Arnie

speak to G60ing on vortex and on here from time to time. he knows lots about gearboxes and is in the US

depends which way you lok at it. the overall rating isn't used over here whereas in US they use average of the 2 RON and MON. they get 94. out best goes probly 93 tops. so it aint that good. IIRC its 100 RON and 86MON so 100+86/2=93 so its probly not as good as what the US gets still and we pay shite loads. so add toluene for a 15 gallon tank 14 gallon of ultimate +1 gallon tol= 94.4RON US or 101.3 UK not 100% on maths but pretty sure.

i started there in 1995. i liked in almondbury for a while. then moved to storthes hall "holiday" camp i visit huds at least once a month for a piss up. what bar u work in.

there are quirte a few huds peeps about. i could always pop round and have a look next weekend as im over there stayin' at a mates in birkby. i was a tax dodger in huds myself.

the finish on a refurb is never like the original. ive had wheels refurbed and wasn't impressed.

my 7.5x17 RCs are a 35mm offset i use a 5mm spacer which makes 30mm and they dont stick out of the arches. i run a 205 40 17 tyre.

I thought this wire connected to the VW system when they are doing a oil pressure test or somthing...

ID probly be interested in this sort of thing too. with the 65mm motorway cruising is pretty noisy n i dont wanna break the charger.

I was about to join at the VWNW this year when we had a stand until i approached the CCGB stand and asked for a form-didn't have a word said to me just go a "look" and a form. not very friendly was my impression.

What engine? on a G60 its on top of the oil cooler houlsing. thers 2 of um the big one at the back is oil pressure 2bar and the front one is oil temp.

sorry i didn't read the original properly. i thought you were doing a pump change. a lovely job esp at this time of yr.

and remember the pump needs 2 outlets plus thermo not 1(a lesson learned after 6hrs of stripdown fun.

theres a lot more to it than just "get a pump" and "get a bottle". its a science still and the stated comments are why so many chargecooling ventures fail. the pump needs to be able to shift lots of water preferably 2 speed. good pumps cost over £100. EG a standard subaru charger cooler has a 3.5gpm pump. the uprated items are often 6-15gpm. the system needs enough water to go through 1 full gear without using the same water. more water is better. water bottles are not. sometimes there aint no other way though. bottles are heat collectors. it may take a while but it happens no bottles is better unless u plan to put ice in or something. a big massive rad is the way to go. as a daily it should provide a better result than a front mount as id say for 40% of my time at least im in traffic. the positioning of the front mount dictates a lot and we all know that on a C its not the easiest to get a direct air feed to all of the cooler.

id look for a good charger even though you plan a rebuild. look for a max of 3 yrs since last build. look for under 150k. listen to engine and check the usuals smoke. excessive oil/smoke from oil filler cap. check exhause for signs of rich running. have a good lookm at the engine bay wiring for wear or brittle stuff a sign of problems to come/already there. do a compression test if you wanna be thorough lots have broken sunroofs, spoiler maybe. peeps say avoid this sort of thing but id think its a good bargaining point. after all its not always neglect that breaks things esp suroof and spoiler. maybe not the cheapest repair but that can be subtracted from the car cost.

it is nice to buy a G60 with full history and less than 100k. i did around 3 yrs ago. problem is you are coming up to the replace parts milage bracket. its cost me a arm replacing 100k old parts. often a car with 120k on it will have had lots of the bits replaced, like i have now. bits i can think of. clutch master clutch slave. full suspension, top mounts front brakes, fog lamp rear wheel bearings. oil pump oil pressure switch(2bar) brake pressure accumulator. O2 probe blue temp. vac hoses. fuel line from end of rail. rad hose. hose connector. headlamp switchx2 lots of door handles. alarm system. plus mods. a near 100k C is i think just as much a money pit as a 120k if not more.

yep ive had my wiring problems. good engine mounts stop broken wires. i used to run rich like this. it was due to the exhaust peeps not plugging my probe in. 2 yrs later n it needed new wires and probe. had a wire on the harness side break.... was then fast learning time to sort out-thanks sam,Gavin,Bilal, Scooby friends others things to check. 4 wire plug connections are all in plug. they can push out probe side. all wires are good harness side. they get v brittle. good earth point on engine mount. heat wires are live. if not it wont work properly. wiring to probe from connector. a break and power to the signal wire will fry ECU. you can tape up the wot switch or just unplug the probe. i go for the unplug. look down the back ofthe engine, drivers side. theres a plug with 4 wires in it. unplug this. whenyopu start the engine no probe will be used. itll run off the map. if it feels better like this id say you have a probe/wiring issue. uber rich conditions are one of the things that kill probes. itll be rich but work under full throttle the same as a full y working car if the WOT system is ok. itll run well enough that you wont notice the difference until its plugged in and working right. ill try and lay my hands on the wideband for the next meet. which part of manchester are you in.

sell fuckin snow to the eskimos you mate. wheres mine? can you sort one for charger day pls