Dan_Storm

I used a 33mm crowfoot when I changed mine. Worked ok for me. Getting the rubber boots and clips back on was a pain though!

I'm pretty certain there is no difference in the radiator sizes on UK Corrado's with aircon. I changed my radiator last year with a Hella unit and it was the same size as the original. The only difference I am aware of is that aircon radiators have a couple of brackets screwed in to hold the condenser in place.

Anyone for the ball joint locking plates. I'll take £15 for the pair. They are £14 each on VWheritage.com.

Pollen filter is sold. Any takers for the ball joint locking plates?

Thanks, filter provisionally sold to tony_ack. PM sent. Tonedef, I got the filter a couple of years ago, I can't remember where I got it but I will check my paperwork to see if I have a receipt.

Ball joint locking plates. I ordered these in error when I was refreshing my front end. They do not fit the VR6. Think they fit all other models. The part number is 191407175 New genuine VW part - £20 including delivery to the UK Cabin pollen filter. JR Filter part number 413. I was unable to fit it because I have aircon and the motor arm obstructs the filter. It is un-used, but has a bit of dirt on the underside where I tried to fit it (see 2nd photo). £15 including delivery to the UK

I've been getting a but of a rattle from the auxiliary belt area. I suspected the tensioner pulley, so slackened off the belt and found the pulley was pretty scratchy and stiff when turning by hand. Rather than buy a complete tensioner unit I followed the bearing replacement guide (originally by PhatVR6 I think). So, I managed to cut the plastic round the old pulley and press out the bearing with a vice and socket. Then press the new bearing in. Pic below shows the old dry bearing on the left and the new one installed in the pulley. I got the tensioner back on and the engine is now running nice and quiet. Gave it a wash and took it for a drive today :)

Hi Matt, I'll have to keep an eye out for you. I am near Crawley.

I noticed my engine code was stamped on the back-right of the engine. If I remember correctly it was near the engine crane hook point, behind the coil pack area. It might need the dirt wiping away before it is noticeable.

Sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I have found the poly engine mounts. I did fit them and used them for approx 50 miles before taking them off. They felt great, but I was getting a little too much vibration when the engine was cold. I took them off and ended-up with Vibratechnic mounts. Jay did a second group buy, which included a softer lower insert on the rear mount. I bought this from Jay with the intention of trying out the mounts again with the softer rear insert, but never got round to it. So, I have the font inserts and the rear inserts with both the harder lower insert and the softer lower insert. The softer insert has not been used. Hope I'm making sense :) On the attached photo, the left hand items are for the rear mount, the right hand for the front. Assuming Tom is happy for just the front, I can split the set and send Hofmiester the rear set. How does £20 per set including delivery sound? Dan

Tom, I have them. I'll see if I can find them and let you know.

I've got the Koni/H&R combo and while it's not bone-shaking, it's still too stiff for my liking over pot-holed roads. I've been looking at the Bilstein B12 kit too as a replacement in the future. Not sure how it compares, so interested to hear lewvw's opinion...

I had a similar experience as you Stonejag. A couple of months ago I noticed the water temp was very high, I pulled over to find smoke coming from the fan. Luckily I keep a 10mm spanner in the door pocket too :) . I disconnected the battery and let it cool. I moved the fan by hand and after an initial resistance it free'd up. The fan came back on when the battery was connected. The day before I was working on getting my SWG scuttle panel to fit better, I'm not sure, but I suspect I left some loose mastic on the slam panel which dropped down and wedged between the fan and the shroud and stopped the fan turning. A few days after that my crack-pipe and oil cooler hoses went! So I think the heat and pressure killed them off. I swapped out the fan when I did the crack-pipe and hoses...hope I don't have a repeat like you.

I needed to replace mine last week. I got the pair for £14 from B&B components. Their eBay trading name is tierod69. They are made by Meyle so decent quality.

Sorry to dig up and old thread....Has anyone had any success with the steering rack adjuster? Is the VW tool required?

I got the 2 new oil cooler hoses, so drained the coolant, removed the radiator for better access and swapped them over. The old ones weren't too bad, but there were a couple of tiny splits that must have been the cause of the leak when the system got some pressure in it. I set about putting the front end back on. My bonnet release trumpet with the bolt had sheared, meaning I had to drill it out: So, to hold the cable in place I improvised with a cable stop, which works really well: Once the front end was on I started up and let the temperature build. Thankfully there were no more leaks :) I got stuck in a traffic jam last night for 20 minutes and temperatures didn't go over 100. Overall, the running temperature seems to be lower than it was before, it now sits at or below 90 on the motorway now.

I've been having problems with the forum not loading on Tapatalk. I guess its something my end as I've not seen anyone else reporting the issue?

Thanks Hasan. Unfortunately I've had to spend out quite a bit on the Corrado recently, so plans to change the suspension have been put on hold for now. I'll bear in mind the Nothelle springs though. Guess they are hard to come by. ---------- Post added at 12:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:15 AM ---------- Here is the leak from the T-piece on the crack pipe While I had access, I checked the oil cooler hoses and considered replacing them, but my plan is to strip the front end again next year and replace all cooling hoses, get the metalwork shot-blasted/powder-coated and replace the A/C condenser and some of the pipework. The oil cooler hoses looked ok, so I figured they'd last until I replaced all hoses next year. Big mistake....more on that later. There was quite a bit of rust near the rad support I treated the worst of it, used a rust prevention primer and then a quick spray. It looks a bit rough and ready, but it's only to keep the rot at bay until I get it power-coated. I ended up fitting the following while I had good access: New Crackpipe New Hella Radiator & radiator elbow New Rad temp sensor New blue, yellow and black temp sensors New thermostat & thermostat housing seal New bonnet release cable Nice shiny lower & upper Rad brackets from daves16v I got the front end back on and installed the battery then tested the stage 1,2 & 3 fan's were kicking in by bridging the pins on the sensor plugs. Stage 2 didn't work, which I initially mis-diagnosed as a wiring issue :( I spent ages chasing the non-issue, then started from the basics and found the fan was faulty on stage 2! So, front end back off again and hunt for a new fan :( I then connected the plugs up to the sensors and found stage 3 was kicking in with the ignition on. I got the multimeter out and found the new black sensor was dead on arrival. I cleaned up the old sensor and used that. I am going to return the new one for a replacement. I nearly went with some aftermarket slimline fans, but for a couple of reasons ended-up sticking OE. I ordered a second hand unit from a breakers. The connections are the same and all looked good, but then I realised the pulley for the second fan was a different size. It turns out they sent me a Golf fan. I looked at trying to swap the pulleys over, but the Golf unit was pretty sealed with no circlips visible. Golf fan on left and Corrado fan on right: I ended-up buying a new Meyle unit in the end. Quality of it is good too. I got the front end back together and filled-up with coolant, I noticed a couple of leaks. First was from the thermostat housing. I tweaked-up the bolts which seemed to fix it. The second leak was from near the crackpipe :( I had a good look, and I could see coolant seeping from the oil cooler hose. It looks like the clip has eaten through the hose. So, front end off again. I have the 2 oil cooler hoses on order. I'll drain the system, replace the hoses and hopefully all should finally be working :) I noticed another oddity when the engine was warming up. The fan's kicked in at stage 1 just above 90° as expected. The fan then cut out after 45 seconds or so as the coolant temperature dropped. I was then waiting for the fans to kick in again as the temperature rose....but they didn't. It got to the point where stage 2 should have cut in, but didn't either. So, i may possibly have a duff new radiator temp sensor too. I ran out of time, so will investigate more when I have replaced the oil cooler hoses. On the plus side, I can now strip the front end in 15 minutes :) Sorry for the rubbish photos.

Dan, no worries. It looks like i have sourced a fan now. Thanks anyway.

I may be interested in the rad fans, don't need the rad though. Do you know if the fans are 3 speed ones? They have 4 pins on the connector.

Anyone selling a 3 speed VR radiator fan that works on all speeds? Mine is not working on stage2. If possible I'd like to try and get something for the weekend while i have the Corrado apart.

I think there is an error on Dinkus' post on page 1. On my Corrado the red is common, red/white is stage 1 and red/black is stage 2. I checked in the Bentley manual and it states the same. Can someone else confirm? Not sure if maybe some got wired the opposite way, wouldn't surprise me :)

It goes somewhere to the right of the oil filler cap. Near the ISV and aux water pump I believe. I have my C in bits, so will get a photo if you are still stuck later.

Ok, I seem to have a bit of an odd problem. Ive just noticed that the red wire on the plug for the fan control module/fan motor has continuity to earth and +12v. I'm not sure that stage2 has ever worked and I suspect dodgy wiring from when the dealers fitted the aircon.

I've just tested my rad fan to find stage2 is not working. Stage 1 and 3 are fine. I've got the multimeter out and found that the red wire from the fan motor to the fan control module has a high resistance. I had an obstruction in the fan recently and the motor was smoking a bit. I am guessing that the wire in the fan motor plug may have been damaged and needs some attention. So, does anyone know how to remove the wires from the rad motor plug? It looks like the are clips at the top of the plug. I tried a pair of small screwdrivers but could not release it. [ATTACH]75082[/ATTACH] Secondly, does anyone know what the different colours on the rad fan wiring are for? I'm not sure this is causing my 2nd stage fan problem but suspect it may be.