Dan_Storm

Looks ace. 7th Corrado! You must like the stress and punishment! I work in Surrey so I'll keep an eye out for you.

I've had a busy weekend stripping everything down, all went very well until I got to the bonnet cable! The cable clamp was badly rusted, I gave it a soak in Plusgas then tried to release the bolt holding the cable on, but it sheared off :( I tried drilling out the rest of the bolt but ended-up damaging the cable in the process, so I'm now after a new bonnet release cable. As suspected, the leak was coming from the crackpipe. There was a split where the T-piece comes off to the oil cooler. I've got quite a bit on order ready for next weekend. I'd like to replace more and get the metal bits powder-coated, but it will have to wait till next year. I've decided to replace the coolant temp sensors while I have the thermostat housing out. I've had a new thermostat sat in the garage for years, so I will use that even though the old one seems to be ok. The housing is in good condition, so that will be going back on with new seals.

Dave, If you are still doing these I am interested in a pair for a VR. PM on it's way.

Anyone have a decent bonnet release cable for sale? I broke mine today. Cheers, Dan

Thanks for the tips. Money is a bit tight, so I've gone with a standard crackpipe. I've had a weep from the rad elbow for a while now. The elbow and o-ring aren't too old, so I suspect it is actually the radiator at fault. I've ordered a new rad, elbow and o-ring. My thermostat and housing aren't too old, so they should be good for a bit longer.

I should really update this thread more often, well unfortunately yesterday was not a good day! Driving home on the M25 I noticed the water temperature was high. I realised something was up so came off at the next junction. I could smell coolant as soon as I stopped and opened the bonnet to be greeted by a big puddle of coolant on the road. I had lots of fun and games with the AA and finally got towed home 5 hours after breaking down. I'm certain it is the crackpipe at fault so I think it's time to update to a gruvenparts one. I want to give the whole cooling system an overhaul when funds allow. The cooling system does seem to be the weakest link on the VR6. I'm getting fed up with the ride quality on The H&R/Koni combo, so much so that I have been thinking if selling up. It seems that I end up driving slowly to lookout and avoid potholes. I know the H&R/Koni setup is known to be on the more compliant side, but I'm still finding it too harsh with not enough suspension travel on rough surfaces. I'd like to compare the ride quality with other setups to see if there is something a bit softer. I don't want to sell up but I'm not enjoying the experience with the current state of the roads. [ATTACH]75016[/ATTACH]

I received mine the other day, thanks! Just in time as my crackpipe broke yesterday which now means I will be overhauling the cooling system.

If it's not too late I'll take a set please

I did mine a couple of years ago. I have dealer fitted aircon too. The only difference I found was the fan unit. There were a couple of nuts/bolts holding the fan unit to the ducting. I imagine there are small differences between the aircon cars depending on which dealer fitted the unit!. It took me over a weekend to do the whole job, but I was labeling every connector and taking photos along the way. I also found lots of other bits to tidy-up while the dash was out.

Looks great! I'm liking the mods you have, the OBD2, KW's, cams and final drive are all on my wish list. Nice and subtle mods that I'm sure make a big difference :)

I may be interested in the rear mount, don't suppose there are any coloured dots on them? I think Vibratechnics use this to identify between road and competition mounts.

31 and had the Corrado coming up for 10 years!

Funny how they didn't mention a brake fluid or engine oil change on the Boxter! It had been sitting for years so they must have done it. I know they can't go into detail on everything, but at least put it on the cost sheet! There was another episode recently where the car had brand new tyres, but it didn't show up on the cost total either. They must end up loosing money on the cars. Love watching the show, just wish it was edited with a bit more realism :)

Hi Stu, I'd be interested in a set.

Sounds good to me, can you PM me your Paypal address? Cheers

I'm interested in the drivers side grab handle. What do you want for it? Not sure what they usually go for.

Sorry to dig up an old thread but has anyone else tried this? I'm in need of a new coilpack and I'm tempted to try the Saab coilpack as I don't seem to have much luck with the VW/Beru ones. Is there much of an improvement in engine smoothness/responsiveness?

Leon263, I'm certain I have 2 pax Lupo arms on mine, I have the blades from a Polo i think. They fit perfectly with the Lupo arms. If it helps I can look through my receipts and find the part numbers of the blades?

Jim, I've got the H&R/Koni combo on mine. I personally find the ride too harsh on poor road surfaces. As Kev said, they seem to be better at higher speeds. Interestingly I've been thinking about going the KW route for a while as I heard the ride quality was pretty good... I'm not that far from you and would happily take you for a spin to give you an idea of the ride quality.......but the Storm is off the road at the moment until I have funds for a new coilpack & HT leads :(

I'd have to agree Kev. Only 3 parts on my car are non-genuine. 1 failed last night and the second broke in my hands this morning! Thanks for the info. OEM sounds the way to go, I will have to have a think over the cost.

I got a quote from TPS for genuine items. The coil pack was around £280 and the HT leads around £150! I like to still to OEM parts where possible, but can't justify spending that much. I see Eurocarparts do a Bremi coilpack, not sure if there is much difference between the Beru and Bremi?

I had the displeasure of being towed home last night by the AA :( I was on the M25, the engine was running great until it decided to run on 4/5 cylinders. The problem seemed to cure itself once the engine had cooled down a bit - I suspect the heat was affecting the resistance in the coil pack. The AA engineer also suspected the coil pack. I have a spare coil pack which works but misses slightly when it is cold & wet. So, this morning I set about swapping it over to see if that was the cause of my issues. The spare is a known good (although on its last legs), so the idea was if the engine ran ok once i swapped the coil I would buy a new coil pack. I tried removing the first HT lead from the coil pack and the end of the lead broke! I tried the second one and the plastic on the coil snapped! I'm pretty sure the coil pack and leads are both made by Beru. The coil pack is only a couple of years old and the leads are about 5 years old. The original VW coil pack and leads supplied lasted 12-15 years! So, my question is are the genuine VW coil packs and leads any better in terms of quality? Does anyone know the OEM supplier for the parts? If Beru are the OEM supplier then I'll just buy the cheaper Beru branded parts elsewhere and save the cash. I know some folk have fitted alternate coil packs from Ford, Vauxhal, Saab, but I'm not sure I want to go down that route.... It doesn't seem many people fit the genuine VW coils and leads because of the cost....so I'm just trying to weigh up if there is an advantage or not.

Well I met up with Ant yesterday to give my engine the Terraclean treatment. I've hardly driven the C in the last few months, so the car/engine power delivery/smoothness was all a bit alien to me and it's hard to give a completely detailed before & after comparison. On the way over to meet Ant I was giving the car a good drive to try and get a feel for the car again. I'd have to say the treatment did definitely make a difference. The engine felt smoother, had a better throttle response and felt more eager. It was quite noticeable in traffic on part throttle in first gear, previously I'd get the usual jerky on/off throttle response, but after the treatment it is a lot smoother. I'm not sure if it was just placebo effect, but the engine seemed to sound nicer too....the VR6 burble seemed more prominent. So overall, I'd say it is well worthwhile.

Ant, I'd be interested in giving this a go. I'm a bit skeptical, but I've heard good reports from elsewhere so I guess there must be something in it! I'm not far away from you, so I will PM you to arrange something.

Yep, the Rover 75/MG ZT were properly engineered cars. They had lots of BMW's money so weren't designed on a shoe string budget like most of the previous cars. Think I'd avoid a k-series though :) The diesel's don't suffer from the swirl flaps issues that the BMW equivalents suffer from and the dual mass flywheels seem to be pretty reliable. They like clutches as much as any oil burner does though. There are a few common issues such as clogged PCV filters, intercooler o-rings perishing, handbrake brackets stretching, fan resistors needing replacing etc....but most of them are easy DIY jobs.