Dan_Storm

I picked this up a few weeks ago as my daily driver. I know it's probably not everyone's cup of tea, but they drive really nice and in my opinion get a bit of negative bashing they don't deserve! Good handling and a nice balance between firmness and comfort. It's a 2 litre diesel (BMW engine) which is pretty good for an oil burner. I don't think you can find much for the money that is as new, economical, practical and as nice to drive. I've done a few small jobs on it and have got a list of other things I want to do. I'm averaging about 43mpg at the moment but the thermostat is opening to early, so I should be able to get another 5-10 mpg out of it once sorted.

The LPG service is something like £80-£100. I think it just involves a filter change and inspection of the system.

First off, apologies to the moderators if I shouldn't have posted in this section. I was unsure as the other-VAG sections of the classifieds isn't up yet and figured this was the best place. For sale is my 2002 Seat Leon Cupra 1.8T details as follows: Spec: -Prins LPG conversion gives approx 200 miles to a tank. The additional fuel tank is in the spare wheel well. -Heated electric leather seats -Cruise Control -Rain sensing wipers -Headlight washers -Heated mirrors -The above are part of the winter pack which also includes a larger washer fluid bottle -Miltek Exhaust -APR Remap with 2 maps - selectable from the cruise control stalk. -Blaupunkt hands-free bluetooth head unit -Boot liner and boot loading sill protector MOT:December 2012 Road Tax: December 2012 History: -102,000 miles -3 Previous owners. If i recall correctly it changed hands between husband/wife and friend. It was bought back by the original owner - who I then purchased it from. -Full service history at Seat Main Dealers and then independent VAG specialists since I have owned it. -Recently had new rear discs/pads, springs, handbrake cables, coilpack and MAF -Has 4x Nokian WR-G2 tyres with lots of tread life. These are all-season tyres which I bought for the Winter months. I was surprised that they were so good at warmer temperatures and didn't feel the need to replace them with Summer tyres. -Last oil and brake fluid service was in December 2011 The Good: -Overall in very good condition inside and out -A folder full of receipts, invoices and service history. Every penny spent on the car is accounted for! -Runs on LPG. The LPG system is made by Prins - one of the best systems. The car runs great on LPG, there is a very minor performance hit, but barely noticeable. -A good specc'd Leon The Bad: -Has the usual parking dings and stone chips. There are a couple of grape sized dents on the roof and bonnet. -Alloys have some corrosion -Climate control could do with a re-gas. It is working fine, but on very hot days it doesn't cool enough for my liking. -LPG system is overdue a service (working fine though) Locaion:West Sussex Price:£2,500 ONO Please PM me with any questions.

I'll be going tomorrow. I'll be coming from my folks in Surrey. Hoping the weather stays good.

Honest John has compiled the MOT test results. The URL is here: http://good-garage-guide.honestjohn.co.uk/mot-results/ It's quite interesting comparing the results. Corrado's have an above average pass rate. Interestingly 9.6% of failures on Corrado's are due to "Driver's view of the road" - I'm interpreting that as "Crap standard wipers" :)

The hex nut is the last part of the drop link, the round section after is all ARB. I used a wire brush lightly to remove the surface rust around the hex nut followed by lots of Plusgas.

I got some recently from VW Spares. I went for the Lemforder ones at £12.25+VAT each. They are good quality and come with replacement nuts and bolts. I have found Lemforder kit to be very good quality.

The dealer who is selling it lives down the same road as my parents! My mum saw it parked outside their house and thought it was my Corrado until she realised it was a different colour. I'll be at my parents next weekend so will keep an eye out for it. If anyone is interested the dealers website is: http://www.kineticautosales.co.uk/

Hello! Not a G60 owner, but VR6 owner here in Sussex too. I'm just outside of Crawley. I don't see many Corrado's round this way now! Have you got any pics?

Ah, the tax disc isn't there anymore. It was in that position when I bought it but I soon moved it as I suspect Mr Plod wouldn't like it. I've got a mate who works for TPS so I got a bit of a discount on the parts, but it was still about 280quid for the 2 track rods, 2 ball joints, drop links, gaiters and the nuts and bolts. Not cheap, but the old bits felt sloppy once I had them off the car so it should sharpen up the handling once I get the tracking sorted

I treated the Corrado to a new set of ball joints, trackrods and ARB drop links. It took me ages due to lack of time and lack of tools (had to buy some mid-job). I've finally got it all back together, went for a quick drive and the steering is feeling a lot tighter, but the tracking and camber definitely need doing. The top mounts are past their best too, so makes sense to get those replaced before the tracking/camber. While I had the car on axle stands I took the opportunity to give the brake lines a clean-up. They came up surprisingly well after 17 years of abuse!

Welcome Rhys. I'm in West Sussex, happy to assist with any viewings if needed! After 8+ years of Corrado ownership I know most of the weak spots! There is a buying guide here: http://wiki.the-corrado.net/the_corrado_buying_guide_checklist.html and you'll find loads of info on the forum

Thanks for the tips. I think floppyman sussed it. A bit embarrassing but I only had one side of the car raised up. I came to the same conclusion by myself last night. Will crack on with it this weekend. cheers! Dan

Still no joy :( I always regret starting DIY jobs but never seem to learn my lesson! I think I need a pair of spring compressors to take the tension out of the hub. It seems like the hub is being pushed outwards by the tension of the spring. I have tried pushing the hub inward to line up the holes, but can't get enough force on it to line up. Has anyone else had this problem? I haven't seem any reference to it on here. I've seen ball joint how-to's for other cars and a couple of them mention using spring compressors.

Does anyone have any tips on how to fit a new ball joint? I've got the ball joint in the hub side and managed to push the control arm down to get the flat section into the slot on the control arm. So, everything is in place, but the bolt holes on the flat section are too far out. I need to push the hub in or bring the control arm out to get the holes lined up....which is where I am stuck. I've had loads of issues along the way, so my brain and body have had enough for today. I'm hoping when i take a fresh look tomorrow things will pop into place :) but just wanted to check I'm not missing anything?

I had a problem with a rounded bolt on the ball-joint plate, so i didn't get round to finishing the track rod. I did use the crow foot to loosen the track rod as I was worried it would be a pain to remove, thankfully it came off easily enough :-) Round 2 is scheduled for tomorrow and no reason to thnk the crows foot spanner will be a problem.....shame i can't say the same about the ball joints.

Jay, I was in the first group buy, would you be able to sort a lower rear mount seperately? I haven't got round to fitting yet, but have a feeling I will prefer the softer mount - I'm getting old :)

I'm in the process of changing my track rods & ball joints. I was tempted to buy this tool, but settled on a 32mm crow foot socket spanner which was cheaper. The other advantage of the crow foot spanner is that you don't have to take the track rod end off first. If the track rod if old the end may be difficult to budge. Looks like a good bit of kit though! And if you can borrow it for free, even better :)

Thanks for the info. I'm in the process of fitting a Jetex pollen filter, so will probably drill a hole in the side of the foliage cover and route the cable through there. As the Jetex pollen filter sits on top of the foliage cover there might be enough clearance. I don't want to be making a hole in the pollen filter as it defeats the objective!! My aircon hasn't worked in years! It's on my to-do list this year, so I greased the mechanism near the motor and tested by sending 12v through the motor....at least it still worked :)

Just a quick question for those with a Davia install......Do you have a hole cut into your foliage cover as I do in the attached pic? The hole is there to allow clearance for the arm attached to the motor. Looks the motor was fitted to high and the hole was made as a bodge job! Just want to see if others have this issue or it's just me.... Cheers

Sounds good! Put me down for a set of OE matt black and clips please

I've finally sorted out 8 years worth of part receipts/garage bills and organised them in a folder. I hate to think what the total amount spent comes too... On the Corrado front, not much to report aside from getting a new alarm fitted from Andy at TrimWizard last year. I'm determined to get stuck in this year and sort out the steering issues I've been having, sort the aircon and get the bodywork touched-up. I've got a big long list of other smaller jobs. The list includes: *Fit new engine mounts *Replace the sunroof motor (current one is on it's last legs) *Tidy-up some of the interior trim that never really got finished after the matrix change *Fit new front speakers & replace the window rollers while the door cards are off *Take the seats out and give the interior a proper scrub - the carpet hasn't looked its best since I did the heater matrix *Fit the pollen filter and SWG scuttle panel that has been sitting in the garage for 2 years!

I had a very similar problem after I had my dash out to change the heater matrix. In my case fuse 3 would blow if I had the lights on and opened the door. The first time this happened I saw a small amount of smoke coming from the light switch. The wire-wound coil for the dimming function had burnt out too, meaning that the dash lights would only work on full brightness when I had a good fuse installed. I suspected a faulty switch to start with so replaced it.....same thing happened and I ended-up with another (expensive!) switch with no dimming function. I found the problem was due to wiring that had been added over the years. If I recall, it was for an old lights-on buzzer or aerial amplifier. As quicky says, check the wiring. If you find anything that looks like it has been added (i.e. covered with electrical tape) trace it back and see where it goes. If possible take it out and try again. Hope it helps!

Mine creaked when shutting too. I bought a set of new struts from VW.......and it still creaks. :-( I concluded that there wasn't much wrong with my old struts and that it was the nature of the beast. Portent, did the creaking stop after you replaced your struts?

Mine arrived too. Thanks for organising!