jamminvr6storm

Sounds like you are letting water in around the foliage grill..... try silicone first but it may be that the ecu cover is letting water in ? Have you got water on the bottom of the fan blower motor ?

Seems to have stopped...... Happy days. For now anyway :lol:

Thanks for the advice, I have a new ABS ECU (thanks to 12 DEG BEN) as one of the pins on mine is a bit iffy. I'll be changing it today and if it doesnt help i'll take some pics.

Over Xmas i seem to have developed a clicky relay!! Under the passenger side dash tray I have 3 relays, 2 black 179's and 1 grey 79.... the grey 79 now ticks when it wants with no rhyme or reason, sometimes it clicks when i use anything that draws current ie indicators or fan blower and sometimes it ticks constantly until i turn something on (current draw) when it stops!! Ive had the relay out, and everything seems to work, starts, stops etc although I didnt try the aircon or heated seats? Any help would be great as i fookin hate electrics :scratch: (and the clicking is driving me mad!)

The camshaft sprockets can be a biatch to remove..... they usually need putting in a vice and be very careful of the small sensor on the sprocket as it easy to break them too. Good Luck :)

As said try and bump it.... or turn the lights on stand in front of the car and get someone to turn the key if the lights go straight out its the battery..... If its gone flat over the weekend its possible something was left on or its draining somewhere, mine lasts a week easily before showing any voltage drop even in the freezing whether!

Im looking into a K&N Apollo now....... Ive had (and still use) a 57i, have also tried a cone filter inside a standard airbox. Never used a BMC so i cant comment! Think they are all much of a muchness!!

Update: Clutch is in and feels very good, no juddering or slipping at all :D Chuffed! Cheers for the recommendations

Tom, Jim came round to mine last night fella and looked at the wiring on my motor, think he has cracked it :) If not mate, give me a bell and I'll bring mine down to his garage. :D

Ive tried all sorts.... KnN cone filter always brings a smile with its induction noise. Ive also found improved throttle response using a cone filter. Ive even tried a cone filter inside a standard airbox! one of my 'moments' thinking this would provide cooler air...... best thing to do (IMO) is to remove or relocate the cabon canister and drop the cone filter in the big hole it leaves.

The block is standard but it's a stage 3 set-up and I have a schimmel short intake also. Makes for a smoother delivery. Very happy with teh results though. :D :D Doh.... I should have just read your sig! :lol:

This is correct but you wont be running OBD2 as Corrado's only came with OBD1. The TB and inlet can both be swapped on a OBD1 car and will give marginal gains but the real difference as already stated is the 24pin chip in the OBD2 ECU..... OBD1's only have 12pin ECU's. C. Will Corrado G60 2 if thats a standard 2.8 with a Vortech/Zed charger then those are very good figures :)

100 RON in europe :shock: ...... why cant we have some of that go-go juice :lol:

My Helix arrived from Stealth yesterday..... 1 Day to deliver :shock: good price too.... Cheers to Vince :) Once ive fitted it I will post up my feedback, cheers for the advice chaps.

I thought Tesco was the only 99 Ron fuel? their Rally stuff?? V-Power says 98? (although I could be..... and most probably am Wrong!!)

Heres mine... I had them colour coded, very nice IMO. Sorry pic aint that great :)

Hmmm interesting..... Ill be looking at that SPEC 3+ unit, if those figures are correct then it can hold more power then the helix and its nearly £200 cheaper :shock: I found some info on Helix Clutches... (Erm... borrowed from another forum) These are the torque ratings of the clutches. organic - 280 lb/ft paddle - 332 lb/ft They test the clutches to see what they can hold on a rig of some sorts and hold the clutch in a static amount of torque, i.e. the clutches can hold the above figures forever, as when a rolling road holds the power on them constant, cept it would be forever ;\) For an on the road normal application, the figures are slightly different. organic - 350 lb/ft paddle - 398 lb/ft These are absolute maximum figures and if you are near the top end of the clutch torque limit, it will wear the clutch very quickly. But it will still hold that amount. When i read on through the post the guy says he was warned by the supplier that on a ''1/4 mile santa pod thrash'' it might struggle to hold the power off the line because of the strain! Thing is where do you buy a Helix Organic clutch from for a VR6? Their website is down.... or at least the page is that I want!!

Cheesewire, CrazyDave where did you get your clutches from? I was wondering if it was a ship over from the US jobby? Then again with the pound as strong as it is that may not be a bad idea.............

Cheers Charlie, havent spoken to you since Brands mate hope alls well :) funnily enough Gav said to ask CrazyDave what he's running....? I was also wondering about KAD, cheesewire, stormcharged etc.... just trying to get feedback from people who are running a non-standard clutch to see what they recommend? Cheers

I didnt understand why it wouldnt work but i thought theres bound to be someone on here whos done it already..... Cheers :thumb right:

I am about to buy a Neuspeed low temp stat, but im looking for a low temp fan switch too..... After talking with Neuspeed they say that their one is not suitable for a VR?? Has anyone done this and where did you get it from? Cheers

I had a standard clutch in my VR when I bought it on 50k, by 55k it was slipping so as part of the 'ongoing' upgrade process (and knowing i had plans for more power) i fitted a Black Diamond fast road unit which has been excellent untill fitting my big valve head, charger and cams. I went to see Peanut on Sunday and on the way i had 4 guys in a shi**y old Honda right up my arse, giving it..... So i thought, see if your little sh*t box can keep up with this.... I planted the throttle only to find that evertime my charger kicked in the bloody clutch slipped!! ffs!!! Oh the embarasement as this Honda crept passed me, the look on my face would have been a picture :shock: So what im asking is what clutch should i go for now? After doing a search i have read about Helix clutches, very good but also very on/off if you get me? Ive also heard that the Sachs Racing clutch is a good unit? It has to to easily hold 300bhp...... What is everyone else using thats either charged or turbo'd their VR's?

Make sure you go out in an R32, the 2.8 24v 4motion is good..... but from what i hear the R32 (on the right management) will provide around 280bhp :lol: I have extensivly looked into this (as thats where im going next) and have had a price of £1500 for a 06 plate R32 engine (MK5's have stronger internals apparently) which i think was very reasonable especially considering it has only done 20k. If you keep your V1 Karl, you will be around 350bhp :shock:

Really.... Geez it must be pants! Who on here has already done an R32 conversion? I would like to pick thier brains a bit......

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/em_k3.html ;) :lol: If you used one of those do you still get the use of the instrument led guages etc? I'm really toying with the R32 engine option but can't bring myself to start messing with the electrics behind the dash, I wan't a 'mainly corrado' car if you know what I mean......or else I'll get beaten for modifying a storm :lol: .... Im thinking of going R32 myself, from what i hear, Storm Developments have developed a one-off Emerald ECU which allows you to use your existing clocks keys ect... and if you have ABS they can use that as traction control! Yeah, I have a Storm and thats the only reason i havent done this sooner! :lol: