dr_mat

Indeed, it's a big job, may aswell buy a RHD car and spend a bit of personal time and effort moving the bits you want to keep over from one to the other.

I'd say if it's a legit car, and advertised legit, fine, but if it's a 2.8 it's not the "full collector's edition", so if you're looking to own a piece of history forget it, but if you just want a nice VR6 with a service history, warranty and it comes at a good price, then go for it.

VW warranty? bite his hand off, that could be worth a fortune! :)

Well if Phat and Kev understood me, surely *anyone* could understand me!

The housing is a bit more than that - it's about £25, but it will come with new seals, which tend to perish with time so I doubt you'll be able to get the old one back on and NOT have it leak without it. It's worth changing tho, on an older engine. I gained about 10 degrees of water temp headroom on the motorway after mine was swapped, which can only be a good thing.

Battery -> boot - don't do it..! Amp drop along the length of the car can cause problems starting/charging etc.

Yeah, I know it's pretty good. It might roll a bit, and it might yaw a bit, but it settles into corners excellently and really has enormous bags of grip on good surfaces. And it doesn't take too long to transfer that weight across to the other side, in an S bend for example, either. :D

I wasn't very serious, to be honest... In fact really I already knew the answer, but thought at that money I might have offered to buy 'em just in case... :) Given the number and height of speed ramps round here, I'm much better off sticking to 4x4 ride height on standard wheels. And the handling's not that bad...

I like the fact that Vauxhall have now managed to obtain a diesel engine that's comparative to what Peugeot were offering ooo 14 years ago. What took ya, Mr General Motors?? (Even VW, not the speediest of innovators, have had good performing diesels for a good few years now.)

How would these sit on (new) standard shocks?

I wonder if maybe they're overreacting a little? This thread comes immediately after a double win for Ken Lark at Snetterton in his Corrado - he ALWAYS does well there! I don't know the circuit but my best guess is it probably suits the C if it's that much quicker. (Lots of high speed corners where the fwd, power and grip can do it's stuff?) I don't think it's the same at every circuit, is it? The newer cars mostly have 4x4 so lose a certain amount of power to that, but it gives them a big advantage at the start line and in slow corners. They are also heavier, but more powerful, so they should have more mechanical grip, and enough power to propel them nearly as nicely as the C, but then they're all very tall, so maybe that counts against them?

Ah, flat torque curves, the sign of forced induction... :) Anyway, love the inverse LCDs on the dash, Henny. Nice job.

That's pretty extreme! Yep, swap em for new ones! * -edit happy now???

There will be loads of play if there's no weight on the wheels - it'll hang from the suspension strut top mount. That said, if you're handy with the spanners, just swap them. They're not too expensive, but a garage will probably charge at least an hour to swap the pair for you.

Oh, and don't forget the extra insurance group that some insurers push the storm into. 19 vs 18 for the "normal" VR6.

jeez, I can understand requiring a PC to talk to the engine computer, but to program the alarm aswell? That's nuts! :)

It's a handy speed reminder, actually. On the 40 limit stretch on the way to work, I know I'm being extra silly when the spoiler pops up (at 56)...

Now I come to think about it, VWs are fantastic. Really reliable cars! Cheap to run and maintain too! And the quality of service from the dealerships is second to none! ;)

Hey, how about I wade in with "bloody corrados are so damned expensive to maintain, if only VW weren't so rubbish", and Kev rounds off with "buy some VT engine mounts they're really really good". We're all getting typecast here... :)

Probably worth doing something if your oil consumption is getting significant, or you're a bit @n@l about your car, but otherwise, wait for the headgasket to blow or the timing chains to rattle. That'll be your prompt for starting expensive work...

You'd have noticed in your rear view if 7 litres of coolant went through the head gasket, I'd have thought!

As kev is probably about to say: fill the water from the top rad hose, not the expansion tank... ;) (Oh and fit some VT engine mounts while you're at it.) ;)

Lack of coolant could cause all kinds of problems, no question. - And I was just trying to get across how important that wet stuff is Kev!

DON'T PUT COLD WATER IN IT.... At least, until it's well cooled down.

Interesting (?) facts: 20 kilowatts = 10 electric ovens running simultaneously 20 1-bar electric fires running together under the bonnet a 200-CPU SGI computer running flat out crunching seti data ;)