G60Jet

Im gonna kick myself for this but BRING IT ON!!

a set of lowering springs (and shocks if they are getting old), most will drip it by about 30mm or if you want more then your gonna need some serious coilovers really some 17s with some good tires and sepnd the rest on ice. sorted

Welcome to the group J a m e s, on behalf of the mod squad. first thing with a G60 is to think long and hard about how far your gonna take the tunning. Look at my G60 spec below and you can see whats been done to mine. many others have similar spec, but we are all different in some ways. Do you want power mod or cosmetics like wheels etc or both, personally i like the stock look. keeps ppl guessing. Anyway have a look around at some of the members cars, get some ideas, find a budget for it all, then triple it, cos your gonna add bits along the way!! but first things first, check the charger condition and get a K&N panel filter on it to start you off.

I think you can just unplud pipe 2 from the plastic junction box thingie and cap it there. and secure it down somewhere Pipe 1 you cap off at the throttle body and 3 you cap off too and the V you vent to air, any safe ideas? wonder why my boost gauge is plumbed in, cos it aint on plumbed in on anything in the diagram, (it was in the Car when i got it)

Tel/Fax 01582 728892

Right The best i've got so far is 10% if we order a $1000 worth of stuff, still waiting on an email back the lastest company in the state, I sent all the details to including part numbers etc, and they emailed me back asking for the part numbers!!! :roll: so i wont be using them!!! anyway I'll let you know, im having better look on ebay with finding mine!!

do you think we can buy these in bulk for a discount, maybe a forum buy!!

14psi on a cool morning here!! i.e before the sun comes up

im with 8VG60 Foam Filters are not as good as cotton ones for filtering apparently, i'd say 90% of us here with G60s use K&N or green cotten filters of one sort or another, never here of any problems with them. so why temp it with a foam one!!

Closed open depend on which way you look at it from :D

for those that dont know WOT = Wide Open Throttle However the Boost valve opens at 3000 G60, so thats sounds good and about correct too

Fat Tony, why wouldn't it fit? was it cos of the seat belt thing. would it fit the passenger side of your motor?

Fat Tony, Did you buy a LHD or RHD part?

Phone VW UK and Tell then your story, you never know you may get it fixed for free.!!

Your running well rich? my guess would be a vacume hose split, you know the 1m one that runs to the ECU

just give koni a call there tech department will soon tell you. I do know this that koni gas shock make the C sit higher than the standard setup, now are the ones you have Gas?

High Flow Cats are for cars that must have at cat to meet emissions. Early G60's were not fitted with them and only the later one were to meet emissions. i think you are mistaken here Back pressure is the resistance of the exhaust, the more back pressure you have the harder the gas are to get out. Now if you have a Cated exhaust the back pressure is higher than that of once without a car. Remove the Cat - lower the back pressure, and then the gases get out of the zorst quicker. Now highly tunes G60's come into a problem when the engine tuning surpasses the performance of the exhaust be it an OEM one or off the shelf performance exhaust , thus needing a custom exhaust. Now this is not to say that less no pressure = better engine performance. Because to a point the engine does need the exhaust, Its not there purly to get the sound down. This is becasue if you vent the hot exhaust gases striaght to air you are venting it to a lower pressure, thus effectivly sucking the zorst gas out, and the new air/fuel with it in, So if you remove the zorst the air gets throught to quick and your left with the incorrect air/fuel mix to power the engine = less power and if you have ever had an exhaust break you'll know what i mean!! Now Normally asperated engines use the back pressure to control the gas flow,Change the zorst and your gonna need to change the settings But the G60 engine as fare as i know anyway, closes the zorst valves before/as the inlet valve opens fully to stop the charge blowing through. This is why the cam profile on the G60 is so critical. Maybe you are getting confussed with the fact that if you change the standard exhaust to a performance exhaust without doing anything to the engine, you can see a bhp drop. This is becuase you have done nothing to chage the engine settings for the zorstl. Now if you have ever ran a 2stroke engine you'll know the basics behind this. on a two stroke the zorst length and width is critical, and can over or under rev the engine if set wrong. Here end this afternoon lesson

Car makers had to increase the CC of some engines when the cat was added to cope with the loose of power. and most moved to single point fuel injection at the same time. this is cause the cat is a power zapping piece of rubbish, that actually does no good at all, mainly cos the a when a cat is made, more harmfull chemicals are used in making it that are ever released by a cars exhaust. on the G60 back pressure is the final problem you have when tuning it, cos even performance exhaust are not good enough for 230+BHP engines (so i've read) On a forced induction engine

I saw a G60 on the German ebay last night with a buy it now of €50 yes €50

Hans G60.nl, Its Called the MFA check sum on all models, however, later models had less functions Here is how its done Borrowed from the CCGB site Did you know that the MFA (Multi Function Analyser\Indicator) or computer give out even more information than it seems. By using the following method you can get all sorts of extra information from those four little numbers in the middle of the dashboard. To engage the extra readings, put the key in the ignition and press down the MFA button on the stalk (you'll need two hands for this one). Now turn the key to position II, back to OFF, then back to position II. The readings will now be completely different to what they were. The tables below give details of what you should find in the two positions of the MFA. Please note these details are only for Corrados produced from 1988 to 1992. Cars manufactured after 1992 (93 models) will only show the Fuel Consumption, Outside Air Temperature and oil temperature. MFA switch, Position 1 1 . Engine Map Code 2 . Country Code 3 . Speedo Drive Ratio 4 . Upper RPM Limiter 5 . Lower RPM Limiter 6 . Deceleration fuel shutoff pressure 7 . Segment Test MFA switch, Position 2 1 . Test sum of programmed bytes 2 . Intake manifold vacuum/pressure 3 . Engine RPM 4 . Momentary fuel consumption 5 . Signal from Speed sensor 6 . Oil temperature 7 . Ambient temperature

Here is the manufacture's website, see if they have a dealre near youPOWERFLEX Powerflex exhasut hangers page Diagram page of different rubbers I brought 3 EXH006 's but you only need one for the rear box and one EHX001 for the other mount on the back box and maybe 2 EXH005 depending and how log you want it to hang for the mid pipe

Sod the Sun roof Air con!! I'll see what temp i get in a min on the drive home and its early evening here too!!

If Corrados weren't so rare here i'd be doing a VR up now instead of spending on my G60. Only cos the VR is newer!!

jims16v, Buy a bently manual Get a rado, Strip it down, and clean every part you can, putting it back together in "refit is the revserse of removal" style. changing the bits you need to in the process. Dont drive the car till its done. Simply leave the wheels and front discs off it till you are done, then no one can nick it out of your lockup so you dont need major insurance, but alway a good ideas. It will cost more, but remember Tom got a VR with a burnt loom cheap!!! and he could of fixed that im sure with a bently manual!!

if your gonna buy a mk2 golf just buy a project rado you know it makes sense cos lets face it the running gear in similar