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Fitted summer 2010: Wishbones Ball joints New brake pipe 288mm Brakes (calipers, new discs and new pads) Stripped and rebuilt rear calipers New rear discs, bearings, pads Not to mention a lot of wire brushing, sanding and painting to kill rust Some pics: Over christmas 2010, the cams were shifted and tappets replaced, in an effort to quell the hideous tapping the car is plagued with. This had the desired effect, and for the rest of my time at home the car was very quiet indeed. Unfortunately this didn't last, and as soon as the 170 miles back to my place of study was undertaken, the noise was back with a vengeance. How frustrating!

Here is my motor, had it about 2 weeks now, no major issues apart from the fuel pipes leaking which have been replaced now! Engine: -128,000 miles with a reconditioned head (at 127k) -De cat -Stainless Magnex Exhaust -New mounts -New Radiator -Engine transplanted at 150,000, with 127k on the new engine Interior: -Cloth Interior -LCD screen head unit, bit dodgy though, think the amp might be at fault -Parcel shelf 6x9s -Corrado Logo door sills Exterior -40mm (i think) coilovers, unsure of brand -Eyebrow spoiler -Inpro Angel Eyes, Front fogs and indicators, Side repeaters, and rear lights -Unknown brand of 17" alloys Runs great, no real problems, apart from i think the ignition switch is on it's way out. Very quiet idling, much quieter than my old VR. Here's some pics No plans really on what to do, I'm a student so I'll just try to keep the costs at a minimum, i might try to downsize the front splitter though as it keeps scraping on uneven roads! It looks like it's black but it's just the light, i guess thats one of the features of Dark Burgundy Pearl

It doesn't use water mate, it produces water as a byproduct (emission). It runs on hydrogen (hence the name hydrogen fuel cell!) which is stored in liquid state or gaseous state at high pressure. The first complication here would be the 5000-10000psi tank sitting in the back of the car, imagine getting shunted in that car! That would be as gas storage though, they're working towards viable liquid storage methods, but for now gas is the most popular. I too think hydrogen fuel cells are the way forward, and if these became affordable, I would most certainly create a hydrogen-electric corrado. The other problem with this at the moment is the easiest way to get hydrogen is to crack hydrocarbons, creating the typical selection of horrible gases as a byproduct as well as using the crude oil stocks! You can also create hydrogen from other methods, for instance breaking down water, but this uses a hell of a lot of energy, and where does that come from? fossil fuelled power stations..... It seems we cannot escape this vicious crude oil surrounded circle right now, but things will get interesting in the next few decades! Here's to waiting...

That is a very valid point, I guess the main reason we only did 11 was due to being short on time. Also I wanted to stop and get it all back together before my assistant dropped another nut/stud down a channel and this time can't get it back! (dont ask! I managed to recover the other 2 dropped objects though) I slackened off the upper tensioner to have a little look, and it looked absolutely fine. History behind this engine is a rebuild by Stealth 5 years ago, compression tests were outstanding, all up to factory levels at around 50 degrees oil temp. Smells like it is burning oil from the head, and also shows by oil consumption. Not sure if stealth tackled the bottom end, so it could be that the oil pump is worn, but after a lot of reading it appears these things are bulletproof and unlikely to work but not as well? Would a recording help do you think? Cheers, James Edit - just regarding the worn tappet replacement, the 12th tappet was never removed from it's location. The other 11 were swapped for identical INA new ones. The cams were held up whilst keeping the sprocket engaged with the chain, it allowed enough room to remove all the tappets bar this one. I assumed that my attempts to unwind the sprocket in situ would be fruitless? Is the bolt not on extremely tight and requiring a vice or such like to unwind? I did attempt to get the cam and sprocket out, but without the endplate removed and the tensioning bolt fully wound out, I could not remove said sprocket, there was not enough movement in the chain. What was i doing wrong?

I will try some additive soon, can you carry on running with the STP treatment or do you need an oil change pretty soon after? I don't really want to waste 200 mile old castrol oil!

Hi guys, In my car thread I recently posted that I changed 11 tappets in the head following a lot of intensive reading as to possible reasons for my ghastly 2000rpm rattle. Long story short it made a huge difference, the reason I only changed 11 was so the timing wasn't knocked out of place, and the one closest to the sprocket was not coming out of the gap! So tappets were done, engine was quiet, lovely. Oil was topped up with fresh stuff, as was coolant, I had serviced it only 400 miles prior. Then I drove 170 miles back to my student residence in London. Upon arriving I immediately noticed that there was a rattle again, albeit quieter but still there. I wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this? I did quite a bit of driving when I was home after the swap, and I was hugely convinced I had fixed it, she was incredibly quiet once more. As soon as i did the trip it was back! Could it be the 12th tappet I didnt manage to change, or maybe the oil pressure? Thanks, James

I'm a bit lost on this statement, if VW did deliver cars with a jet engine, I doubt it would poke out of the boot through a hole that looks clearly cut out? There is no way that could look original :lol:

I believe that jobber sits against the radiator at the passenger end? Acts a bit like an air guide, sits in the area with the large gap, as the rad is not flush with the bumper and grille. I may be mistaken though, hopefully someone else can confirm this.

Mightily chuffed right now! Been home over christmas, and decided to have a look into the rattling issue (video earlier in my thread). Didn't want too much work, so I swapped out the tappets for new INA ones just for the sake of doing them, obviously not sure if this would quieten the engine or not. Finished the job yesterday, very impressed with the results, purrs at idle now with no unhealthy rattles whatsoever!

You can buy individual leads new, I think I got mine from the dealer

I can probably answer the rust question, the spoiler isn't metal so I doubt this would be a problem?

Thanks Danny, As we all know this is what the forum's great for, knowledgable people whom are always very willing to help! The car is acting fine now, can hardly hear it at idle anymore just got the usual tappet rattle at 2k rpm! flew through the MOT and will be changing the oil before I leave tomorrow. Fingers crossed it makes the 170 mile trip!

Oh just noticed I showed you the VR6, sorry! The 16v is on there too, and I'm guessing it will be even more central.

Don't know if you've read any sites that list it, but this site does: http://carfolio.com/specifications/mode ... ?car=17545 Says 58% towards the front?

Thanks a lot guys. What you've said is reassuring, it is indeed a strange condition that I as of yet have not seen or read about before. I'm glad to say that today I took the VR down to the MOT station to get it's certificate, and there was not a hint of this noise reappearing. Over the next couple of days I'll give it new oil and a filter and follow the tips you mentioned Pete. I suppose the strangest thing to me was the fact that I have left the car for longer periods in the past and not encountered this. Before this fortnight the car was untouched for 2 months, it was only due to circumstances that I've been home twice in 2 weeks and run the engine both times. Only a week ago the car was running fine, no noticable problems and left it running for a good while. You do make an interesting point Kev, I just hope in running it I haven't caused it major damage!

Hi all, My VR has been off the road for 3-4 months now, but I have been firing it up and letting it warm up whenever I can. Last time I did this was just over a week ago when I was home last, sounded fine aside from a little bit tappety when warm but it always has and never got worse. Yesterday, in light of the fact that I can finally put it back on the road and take it to my place of study with me, I fired it up getting it ready for the MOT. At first it didn't sound rough at all, in fact it sounded quieter than it normally does when cold, the charateristic unhealthy rattle from cold wasn't there this time! So I let it continue to warm up and walked off and left it. When I returned it was making a pretty nasty clatter, at the same frequency as the tappet noise which has always been present. This was a lot louder than normal, likened to someone tapping the top of the engine with a medium sized hammer. Thinking the worst, I was a bit baffled as to why such a noise would just develop without the car being used. I decided to leave it running to see if it got worse/better. At the time we were trying to sort the alignment of the headlights out, so I got tired of hearing it and switched the engine off. I have heard a similar noise on someone's recording on here, and the consensus from other forum members was that it was a pretty terminal noise and needed fixing asap! Anyway after we finished the work I fired it up and let it run some more, leaving it idling and walking away for a few minutes. Upon my return the unhealthy clatter had completely gone, and the slight tapping was there in it's place. This has left me a bit confused! So I'd like people's opinions on this, sorry i know it's a bit of a read but I thought I'd set the scene before i describe what happened. I was very close to recording it but when I returned with my camera the sound had gone. I'm planning a 170 mile drive down to my place of residence at the end of the week, and I'm really hoping that something bad won't happen! Could this have been caused by oil starvation to a tappet in the head? We tried to locate the source of the noise and it did appear to be at the top end but I know there is still a chance i could have problems with bottom end shells or such like. It's been a flawless engine runs perfectly and pulls fine when i tested it today, just got a bit concerned with this noise and my bringing it back on the road. Thanks in advance

Best description is aubergine isn't it?

Why not make it into a W12 with the 2 VR6s? 8) 8)

Hi all, I'm suspecting it is the isv at fault here but wanted to ask the experts first. Basically my vr idles great in normal conditions, but when I was manoeuvring it around in my gravel drive it acts very funny, not the first time its done it either! As you can imagine moving it around my drive involves a lot of clutch action as I flick between 1st and rev. If I don't give it enough beans it will literally start bouncing, earlier it took at least 30 seconds to stabilise. The engine is almost always cold if that makes a difference, and come to think of it I think its better warm. I'm not sure if its the isv as its flawless in all the other types of driving, and doesn't cut out when the clutch is dipped at junctions like a dodgy isv would? (If I'm correct) I have applied carbon cleaner to the isv in the past too. Hope you can help. James Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

Dave, Bigred were the suppliers of my rubber seals kit, got them as the piston dust covers were fucked. Had them on for a good few miles now, no problems at all.

I've got a stereo with bluetooth incorporated, don't need to wire up an external mic and obviously the speakers used are the car ones! Plenty of manufacturers that do them, might be worth a look? Provided the aim of this is not to keep the OEM stereo!

I had one recently that had me shocked! Believe I was on the M11 at the time, on a stretch of 4 lane road which was coming up to a fork where the left 2 lanes were going branching off to go elsewhere. Upon realising this I was in the left hand lane. I moved over one lane and continued to indicate right as I waited to move into the 3rd lane over which was where I needed to be. At this point I had clocked a pair of HIDs closing in on me rather quickly in lane 3, but still a distance behind, this was why I hadn't moved yet. With plenty of space and just this car the only other in sight, I decided to move across to lane 3. We were quite far along the designation of the lanes now, all clearly marked as usual for a motorway. So anyway I get full beam from the car behind me despite there being plenty of space and me giving warning to my intentions(indicating for ages). Car turns out to be a 3 series rep mobile doing in excess of 100, who moves out into lane 4 to pass me after showing his disgust and then cuts all the way across to lane 1 as in fact this was his junction. I mean seriously....

that fake dumpvalve is pure comedy! As someone mentioned the comments/feedback are also amusing, really shows who would buy them: Q: Would this fit a Citroen saxo? A: Yes, its universal fit Q: Will this make my car go any faster? A: No :lol: :lol: :lol:

Must be down to the car guys! I mean what types of people does an expensive old german coupe attract at the end of the day? Well actually that doesn't validate the point, my first answer would have been someone stupid :lol: But there must be something about the car that attracts the decent folk!

Thanks buddy :) As the discs are only 8 mm larger diameter I didn't bother I don't think anyone would advise changing them! If they're 320 mm I believe there are larger shields for that.