boost monkey
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Everything posted by boost monkey
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Hi next time it happens, open the bonnet and swap the spade connection on the temperature sensor used by the ECU. See if that cures it. I don't think that's the problem, I meant more the air temp under the bay causing something to not work not the actual temp of the engine. I'm pretty sure the it's the leads or coil but as per my post above it's gone a bit wrong! Nick If your leads are getting so hot that they turn brittle and snap off in the spark plug holes, you definitely need a new set! could well be why the car is running bad too. Worth changing them anyways if the old ones are that bad. hth, Jon.
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geoffb has recently picked up a 2.0 8v afaik too.
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Hi matey, you're talking about the 2.0 8v i presume, and not the G?
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Butterflys Blackberry... car of the 90's
boost monkey replied to Butterfly's topic in Members Gallery
Good work Judith! I've been doing this recently too...the red paint on the sachs rear shocks doesn't hold up too well does it! :shrug: @VR6, I'd say it's preventative measures: the more dirt you can keep off them, the less water retention on the metal surface there will be and the less rust :salute: Same with bodywork et all. -
Yeah, I took one off before as a whole set: suspension struts plus hubs and all the brakes and driveshafts, then the subframe with wishbones and steering rack an ARB all attached to each other! took two of us a lot of puff to struggle and lift it around the back of the house! :pale: cheers for the info, I need to get a load leveller for my crane I think :salute:
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good to see you're staying level-headed about it mate! Definitely a good trait for a Corrado owner.
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Yeah, I wouldn't say changing the oil to fix a loud engine was a good idea!
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Oil might mask some noise a little, if you think how a speedboat engine sounds quiet(er) when the blades are submerged but run them outside of water and they sound a lot louder? :shrug:
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There are places that sell sealant kind of stuff, I've used it on old cars before. It's a lot like the OEM sticky/maastic kinda stuff that's on there as standard. Otherwise silicone sealant stuff should be fine too.
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i think camo matt has been played out as much if not more than matt black. If you're doing it to be scene, i don't think there's a point but if you genuinely want to have a reflection-free car then fair enough.
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300whp, afaik, is pushing it if you're staying with the PG 8v engine. To make that you're looking at 350-375 fly which is probably more than the little enigne can take. If you swapped in a 16v engine though.... now that would be doable! No probs on the pics, nice to have a little read and hear your reasonings! :salute:
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Looks pretty similar Nick, afaik. Do you know whether these two pipes are connected together properly? That will be a vacuum leak if not, and could lead to your hiccup-like symptoms. hth, Jon.
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I think you are getting confused matey. The hydraulic part of the system is for engaging and disengaging the clutch: clutch pedal. The cable change part of the system is for changing gears: gearstick. Your corrado will have both. If you mean whether it's worth putting an old Rod change box on from a Mk2, then no. The gear linkages are a a huge weak point: Ok for the old KR 16v, but no good for a G or a V engine. hth, Jon.
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I see Halfords is officially sponsoring yet another Corrado resto/project! :salute: Good work buddy. How easy did you find dropping the subframe off with engine in situ? I'm looking to do this soon too.
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:salute: this is where the fun begins!
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This is true Jonathan, thermal conductivity is measured in W/mKand to be honest I haven't done a great deal of work in it (avoided this question today!) but would be interesting to see data for both G12 coolant with a water base and also engine oil... which engine oil do you use as it should have a different conductivity depending on it's viscosity/
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Yup, posted before looking at link. there can only be one of these though surely!
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:clap: :clap: :clap: we can go see the auto workshops, and if you're REALLY lucky i may show you project plum :salute: glad to hear you're getting there though Chris, gonna be a monster when it's done!
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Hey apple, I head there's this elite tuning place over in Oxfordtownshire that you should go to... yeah... it's really great. and stuff. so you should go. :grin:
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I can heartily recommend the section on Inlet Manifold Plenum Design on page 30 of A. Graham Bell's book Four-Stroke Tuning. there's too much to type up on here, plus it's not my experience and it's copyrighted. Interesting stuff though which goes against what you may believe is true...certainly got me thinking!
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I would say: Oil has a larger density and therefore will take longer to heat up, but when hot would take longer to cool down even though it gets thinner with temperature it is still a more viscous fluid than the coolant. hth, Jon. p.s. # rho rho rho your pressure vessel, laminarly down the fluid with negligible-surface-roughness #.... catchy?
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Wow! :shock: I got the opposite with paypal: they cancelled a couple of transactions because I forgot my password 2 times in one minute... Plus Paypal USA kept phoning me up at random times like midnight etc! Very odd.
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No oil should be coming out of it mate, sounds like further investigation is needed.
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Sounds like a slow leak I'm afraid mate, perhaps it had lost the ~500ml over those few days? :shrug:
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No I'm in Oxford i'm afraid matey :salute: