boost monkey

Good work y0! Pics are definitely ftw. I hate doing bodywork stuff, but you look like you got some skills! That wing is gonna look perfect :notworthy: Wish I had the garage / drive space you guys have. I haven't even had my car's wheels off yet and I've owned it for 4 months almost :cuckoo:

Yeah, that cheque didn't bounce. I completely forgot cheques need time to clear (even though Barclays 'credit' your account instantly). Anyhoo... I have a subframe, I have Marine Clean, I have gloves, I have wire brushes and I have paint. Let the fun begin! :clap:

Wouldn't have thought so, but give it some grease/lube like Toad suggested and report back.

Leaves or something stuck in the piping perhaps? Do the air vents on the passenger side work alright?

Yeah, soft fronts would affect turn-in. At least the rears aren't harder then the fronts, that's when pirouettes and ditch missiles are born! :shock: Not so great.

LOL! Jules, I'd think about maybe checking the relays for the horn and hazards, something must be shorting somewhere for the two circuits to be linked like that.

Your pump was blocked and it still drove ok? That sucks! My 16v pump got blocked for like a split second, and the crank munched through the bearings :brickwall: And what is backlash? :scratch: Ta! :clap:

I'd recommend these for a dodgy horn:

tbh, if those bits have gone through your oil pump I'd recommend a new pump too. It's like the heart of the engine, don't really wanna skimp on it!

Ok? Did you use the small blue anodised tin of stuff? I used that on my Atlas Grey Mk2 Jetta before and it seemed to be pretty good. What car were you using it on?

Goodo :grin: Went for a run in my car this avo ro see if the mpg is sorted, and it isn't....yet. I'm thinking I may have a blocked pipe or something, after all they are prob originals! I think I will pull them all off and clean/replace them at some point. Mileage and fuel guage are showing that i'm doing reasonable mileage so that is ok :dorky:

It's looking awesome buddy! Having to do the odd jobs whilst you're waiting for parts to arrive, or just for money to buy parts can kinda suck, but then when stuff arrives you can crack on with it which is awesome!

Sounds good matey! Do like the induction noise :salute:

It's really quite simple. On the KR, there is a vacuum line that Tees off by the airbox on a Y-shaped red plastic connector. It's a black hard plastic hose (as opposed to the see-through ones) and it goes through the bulkhead just to the right of the brake servo. This then joins to a black rubber hose which attaches to the back of the MFA unit on the dials. I pushed this rubber pipe further onto the join on the dials, it was all I could do, as all the other pipes were intact :shrug: You can check the dash pipe from the driver footwell after you take the large lower dash trim panel off (under steering wheel, and above pedals) I hear that a mpg reading of 99.9mpg means your MFA unit might be on the way out. Maybe new clocks time? Otherwise, let us know how you get on. btw, to get the dials out, there are two screws located bottom left and bottom right of the surround as you look at it, then there are two up in the top edge ^ of the surround going upwards (you can't really see them unless you're in the footwell). They're all kinda prone to falling out whilst undoing and getting lost somewhere, but hopefully you will be ok. Once you get these four screws out, you can remove the surround. The dials are then held in by two free-swinging pivots at the bottom (don't worry about these) but the top left and top right corners are screwed into place, so you have to undo these. These two are the ones most likely to fall out and get stuck behind the dash somewhere! After these two are out though, you can move the clocks forward, but remember to disconnect the speedo cable else they won't move too far, and you don't really wanna pull the cable apart. :salute:

Position 1 works too Neil, that's the one I used. I think Position 2 gives you instantaneous readings? digital rev counter etc etc etc. @Davidwort, The car wasn't on when I did it, so maybe it took the lowest rev value from when it was last on? Would have been about 2 mins before when I was checking the rev counter for something else!

Ola boys and girls, I've just been fiddling with my vac pipes on the MFA / Intake to try and get my MPG to read accurately (maxes out at 12.5mpg :cuckoo: ) and while I was there I thought I'd write down what values I got in Diag mode on the MFA. Please correct me if I'm wrong with labelling the values: 3 - Country code UK 955 - some rev counter value, factory idle speed perhaps? 7418 - upper rev limit (hard limit I'm guessing as it's pretty high!) 1175 - lower rev limit (not actually sure what this is used for, warm-up idle speed perhaps?) 74 - oil temp? Segment test - works OK. 107 - reading the bentley this seems to be something to do with engine map, but I'm not sure what. If anyone can enlighten me to whether these figures are all in keeping with a good MFA unit and it's associated sensors that would really help me out. Cheers, Jon :salute:

lol, It's your car to rip apart and destroy if you want to Si! What colour is the carbon? We need pics ASAP.

Not uncommon i'm afraid, but you can get it welded it up easily enough. The crack will propogate with heat (get bigger, thermodynamics yo!) so I'd recommend getting it sorted. You can run it, but it'll get louder and you'll be loosing power and if it's a 9a, the lambda will be getting slightly dodgy air readings. Good time to go tubular? :norty:

I bought the vag one and it sheared on me :sad: half of it's still in the head. Completely my fault, but was an expensive error! Lasted all off 10 mins! :cry:

No Dave I think he means the 1-pin connectors. The golden pic you showed up there is perfectly fine. You slide the connector across the top round bit sideways, instead of having a little spade that sticks out. I fitted one of those to my KR recently.

it's drivable without the charger on mate, it'll just be a LOT slower! Talk to G Werks about charger rebuilds.

yup, that's right. thermotime switch for the ISV is red/green (basically allows the car to run well from a cold start, mine is broke and so car run lumpy until it is warm). There is NO blue temp sensor on a KR 16v, that is only 8v as davidwort suggested.

Stock suspension ftw. Theives can't even see the car on a cloudy day :salute:

Indeed it does, good work! Next time you're going up past Oxford to see Greg do pop in :grin: :salute:

you got a better picture of the second wire? I can't see what colour it is, or where it is coming from. Large chance it should be an earth though from the myriad of wires around the dizzy.