boost monkey

Yessss, we're muppets, there is an ORBER on the end... ...in Opposite World! :tongue:

Man, some of those products are top dollar. I see Dodo items are upwards of £30?! ouch. I'll just stick to pimping stuff engineering wise I think 8)

no probs. can you just confirm which car it is that you're changing the rack boot on?

If you're trying to work out if it's early or late spec, the easiest way of id'ing it would be whether the hanger is a bar-type for late or a hook(?) type for early.

Ha ha thanks Bro. Hopefully, tomorrow my Autoglym will arrive: 1 litre of Bodywork Shampoo, 1 litre of Clean Wheels (prob let the 'Son have this as I'm still running Sebrings), 1 litre of Super Resin Polish, (all 3 for £18.99 delivered) 500ml of Extra Gloss Protection (couldn't find 1 litre under £17 anywhere and thought it prob won't get used as much as the shampoo and SRP anyways :shrug: ) 1 Autoglym Aqua Dry Chamois, 8 Autoglym polishing cloths, all for ~£40 delivered which I thought was reasonable :salute: The sun really brought out the swirls in the paint today, will have to remedy those soon :D

I just logged into there and it makes no sense to me either. the abbreviation is correct, their use of ABS does mean anti-lock braking system (I was wondering what FAG meant, turned out to be the manufacturer's name! :lol: ) as said, rear struts are the same, ABS or none.

Isn't your insurance null and void?

Yes that is definitely an Inner CV problem. You shouldn't be able to rotate a driveshaft AT ALL by hand, so if you can feel play and if there is a sound (like yours) then it is definitely going. and no, you don't get a tie to hold the boot to the axle/driveshaft. It doesn't need one, that rubber is a really tight fit (which you will find out soon enough) Do you mean the circlip on the very end of the driveshaft which keeps the Inner CV from slipping off when the shaft is not connected to the diff cup?

*points to search button* there's plenty of info on pretty much all apesct of the ABS system matey, sensors, cages, wiring, main unit etc etc.

scratch all of that, the wheelarch picture you posted doesn't look like a corrado one, at least the hubs are different? very odd. More info needed cardboard!

Firstly, that definitely isn't a Corrado steering rack! the track rods come out of each end. Stick your head under the car and you'll see what I mean. if you're taking the track rods completely off you'll need a ball joint seperator and some decent spanners to get it away from the track rod. hth, Jon. p.s. see my thread damn it!!!!1111oneone

did you check your rear suspension top mounts? might be worth a look too.

Alright matey, there's a white/blue that comes out of the same wiring sleeve as the 3-pin connector (this goes to the side of the distributor), if you mean that white/blue one it needs to be plugged in TOP RIGHT as you look end-on at the engine from the passenger side. at least that's where mine is plugged in!

I'll PM you the answer when I get back to my car, in a lecture atm (shhhh :wink:) For starters there's a 1-pin blue/white connected either round the black of the block as one of the temp sensors, or it goes to one of the 3 1-pin connectors around the coolant flange on the flywheel end of the block. there should be a green/red one and also a yellow/red(?) one too. but i will confirm later on.

Grease is only available from Germany at the moment, I had to special order mine. comes in a big tube and costs ~£6 ish, see my PAS rack rebuild thread for more info :salute:

yeah all the flaps have little cogs on them, so if you took the dash apart you could set them all manually. IIRC the slider panel just clips in so you should be able to see quite quickly if the cables are knackered. My sliders are quite stiff as I can feel the cables moving about, do your sliders slide without resistance? might be a sign that the cables are going.

what corsa boy said. Just make sure you don't get any gunk inside there as the innards of the rack are located there and should still be greased up.

the slider has cables that come off the back of it and move different flaps in the piping behind the dashboard. Perhaps your cables are broken? These are now obsolete i'm afraid but I do have a spare with good cables if you need.

Cazza you could do the independant tests for parts before trying them on your car (i.e. measuring resistance across a connecter etc etc) to check they're good? Sorry to hear you still have the problems though, don't know enough about the Reihen to offer any help. btw, I still have your Erwins, lemme know if you want them back sometime :wink:

my rack is leet. they're not too hard to DIY if you're confident. I wouldn't pay any company to refurb anything I don't think.

The two old boys based at Silverstone. can't remember their name though, all the racing teams use them.

there should be a connector like that going to your distributor, is that one one properly?

Ron's on approx 184k (odo says 182k but speedo doesn't work, and i've had him about 3 months hence the guesstimate) It's not on the original engine, and EVERYTHING creaks. steering is ropey although it still handles rather well. brakes are pretty good, but again could have been done recently. Wouldn't change it (the car) for the world. Will be changing the perished items! :salute:

does yours tick up on miles? I would have thought KMs. Mine is about 185k now.

There might be some newer generation ones which will fit, but you'll have to search: there is plenty of info on here though. I refurbed one off a low-mileage car which will be going on as soon as my spare subframe arrives :salute: