boost monkey

No comment :roll: ... it will be done soon though :cheers: You'll be lucky pal! I will either be popping down to Stanford on Sunday or up to Donny, plus doing Aldates in the morning and trying to fit in some revision somewhere? :shrug: You can borrow the AG bits though no probs :salute:

stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfDSC00302.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3] Think we must have had acid rain overnight for this kind of oxidisation to happen? :shrug: These ones are all taken this avo at uni. ETKA Corrado.pdfDSC00307.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3] stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdfDSC00308.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3] Corrado92.pdfDSC00309.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3] passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfDSC00310.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3] climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfDSC00311.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3] 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfDSC00312.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3] DSC00313.JPG[/attachment:1y6m6re3]

Maybe wiring issue? The wires go through a rubber bellows below the door hinge. Maybe they are getting pinched when the door is shut? OR maybe they are wired into the same circuit as the door-open-light and only work when that is coming on? :shrug:

Gave Stella the Auto-glym treatment tonight. Pics up shortly!

What is wuppa and did VR6s get asbestos inner CVs or something? :scratch:

Didn't Goldie have some problems trying to bleed his mk4 rears recently?

Mate, do you have the inner CV headshield on your car? looks like an upside down J and covers the O/S inner CV from heat radiating out of the manifold. IIRC it bolts to the rear of the block just above the sump pan?

Trev, from a stresses point of view, if you can see that the panel gap between door and shell has been reduced this isn't a good sign. :( Sounds like the bumper would have transmitted the force through it's arms into the chassis legs and also some axial / rotary forces which have buckled the rear panel slightly. Was the impact at an acute angle perhaps? Do you have any pictures of the floorpan or even the boot floor? My thinking is that if there was enough force for shockwaves to deform the bodywork up by the doors, then the whole rear end may be out of alignment a little :( :( Hope you get it all sorted though, we're rooting for you!

don't forget your steam tables! :dorky: :salute:

Come over to the O-town bro! we can chat thermodynamics and fix each other's cars! God knows I could do with some incentive! :brickwall:

There's about four of is local, my brother has a silver G60 (off the road at the mo) and he works up near kidlington way iirc. Plus poll250 is local as is M.

It's a sad tale Trev, sorry to hear it. reshelling really is your best option financially I think, unless you can find a good bodyshop that will do it for really really cheap. on the upside you are in oxfordshire which makes you 100% cooler now. 8) I'm in headington in the O-town, you should pop by sometime!

*inherits the name Purple Peril*

Andy where are you based? Would you be offering a stop-in shop for those ordering parts through yourself or would you be able to offer some basic postage service? :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

yup should be identical.

So, as I had initially degreased the subframe and had a POR-15 starter kit to hand I decided to crack on... This is Marine Clean. It's a very strong organic degreaser and cleaner. I diluted it about 1:5 with water and it worked really well. Rinsed the subframe after I finished and left to dry in the sunshine. This stuff is Metal Ready and it's pretty clever. It has surfactants in which react with the ferrous oxide (rust) and also leave a coating of zinc phosphate over all treated metal areas. The MR didn't react very quickly as it was cold outside and hence didn't catalyse as fast as I had hoped. Just looks wet when you apply! Left it overnight and it looked like this the following morning. Coated it again in all the nooks and crannies and left for another 24 hours.. This is what it looks like at the moment. Some of the rust has been dissolved by the enzymes; the rest has been "plated" with zinc phosphate! Really recommend this stuff, haven't used the paint yet but I can imagine that it is as good as the other two products. I got my kit for £20ish from Frost. Yeah I'm not keeping the subframe now, but i needed to test this starter kit plus I can show buyers these pics :salute: more updates as and when.

p.s. if you saw my golf you would realise i never admit defeat! :salute:

if you're selling for £500 and if you talk HIC into freezing my insurance at £500!

strip and buy Stu! don't forget the money involved :lol: :clap:

it's been discussed tons and tons and tons and tons and tons and tons and tons and tons and tons and tons. you get the picture. The search is your best friend.

Andy Nugget Legend. Three words synonymous from now on! :notworthy: :clap:

I love the logic behind this! strip unnecessary weight to improve something else. Genius :cheers: Thanks dude :salute: Heard last night that the Aston won in Monza (Italy) at the weekend. Our luck is changing at last!

Possibly mate, but then I was 100% sure the mk2 one was the same and look what happened :sad: Toad says he has one I can strip and buy so I will probs take him up on the offer :cheers:

:clap: :clap: :clap: I do have coursework on them. My god, it's dull. Literally like looking at lines and lines of old-skool ZX Spectrum programming! Apart from this set doesn't load games at the end :bad-words:

The powers that be and I have decided that the Corrado must have the vibration block and the extra rear mounts for a reason and as such I'm gonna prep the mk2 subframe up and then sell it on. I got the frame, cross-member and rad support for £60 anyways so not a massive loss and can prob get £30ish for the frame after it's painted.