boost monkey

Ok, so this is the full rack: climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfcolumn1.JPG[/attachment:zrajree3] let's look closer at the join about 1/3 in from the right: 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfcolumn2.JPG[/attachment:zrajree3] This is the 13mm bolt (sorry, thought it was a 10!) that you need to tighten...see the end of the steering column is splined and slips into it? You are tightening this join. let's rotate the column and zoom in a bit more (aka blurry mess on my phone!): column3.JPG[/attachment:zrajree3] So that's the one you need to do up a bit if it's loose. As mentioned mine came off before and my whole steering wheel span freely on it's bearings!! Luckily I was only pulling into a car park, but could have been very dangerous. hth, Jon. p.s. if you still can't find it, pop round! :lol:

That's way too far up the steering column mate, the U/J is the part that goes from the bottom of the steering column (just above the pedals) through the bulkhead to the steering rack on the subframe. It's just a knuckle joint really. I have a spare complete column outside, I'll go snap it with my phone :D

Cheers Yan :D It's not too hard to remove the TB. Ideally you would remove the inlet with the TB on and then seperate the two parts, but this kinda increases the work, although that's how I did it purely due to the lack of clearance around the TB in situ (brake cylinder / servo etc etc) the accelerator cable unhooks simple enough, although I think there's a few electrical connectors (idle switch etc) which are fiddly, plus on mine there's a bunch of small vein vacuum pipes underneath the TB aswell. apart from those, I think it's just the big black air intake pipe. you'll want to get new gaskets for anything that you seperate from anything else (TB to manifold, upper manifold to lower manifold, lower manifold to cylinder head if you take this part off).

on my golf, it was a 10mm bolt around 25mm long with a nut on one end and a bullet-type 10mm head on the other. On the spare U/J outside, it looks like a plain 13mm bolt, same length. It's quite a long way up behind the dash. I currently have my under-steering-wheel plastic panel in and you can't see the bolt without removing this. Can take pics if need be.

aaah yes, had the suspension problem on Prodigal's old car. He did in fact buy a drop-head 22mm spanner and I had a rather stylish Sykes-Pickavant 7mm large allen key with handle.... god knows what for! I think perhaps the old odd-numbered decimal sockets were used is because they converted from old imperial fractions of inches much better than the 12,14,16,18s do. But yes, that is strange that VW are using those bolts now...most likely idea to my mind is that all the current-gen cars use the smaller bolts so they are trying to allow the older cars to use these aswell, as opposed to keeping masses of bolts in different sizes just in case one of the obsolete models has need. Could be wrong though :lol:

lol, yes mate my home town! Sorry, it's BrowdOn Motors: google maps link with phone number. They're down in Shirley aka the ghetto!

1. Yes, S/S manifolds are normally a few hundred pounds. I got an Ashley on my Mk2 16v. It was £200 and really poor quality. I would easily justify £300 for a high quality manifold, which will probably outlive the rest of the car, durability wise. 2. I've seen a few mk2 16v manifolds crack, and I guess you could argue that they're the same as Corrado ones? And there are a few people on here who have passed MOT without a cat on their VR6, CazzaVR being one that immediately springs to mind. 3. It is much much muich more likely to be the gasket or the join at least (maybe even the mild steel bolts) but as my first post on page 1, it's near impossible to split an old manifold from downpipe in my experiences with more than just VWs and is generally worth replacing manifold and downpipe at the same time....which is when the aftermarket thoughts come in! @ Critical_Mass, Golf VR6 (AAA engine) exhaust manifold and Raddo VR6 (ABV engine) are coming up as having the same manifolds, so this might be of interest to you: Original Golf VR6 manifolds and downpipe on the bay - £25! Yeah, they've been sprayed in heat paint but they still look properly solid, and if he's managed to split the manifolds from the downpipe then they must still be in good condition. hth, Jon.

Why is this annoying, Supercharged? :confused4:

Also not sure if magnex make a corrado manifold, they make a Golf one but not sure if it'll fit? Catalytic converters aren't actually a legal requirement on any car, they are just to help pass emissions. If the car passes the text with a cat bypass then there's no problem at all. The police are more likely to pull you for the noise i reckon. Also, Darren @ G-werks says the sports cats aren't really worth the extra penny over the standard ones, but each to their own I guess.

btw, if people WERE thinking of stripping it down further, there is a circlip which holds in the top splined steering drive. I'm not sure if i will remove this. If my set of PAS seals comes with a replacement circlip, then I will probably give it a go.

Awesome! :clap: But did you mean Copper brake lines, or are they actually from a Cupra? Never heard of that swap being done before!

My powerflow system looks OEM too, has a nice oval tailpipe and I didn't realise it was a powerflow until I looked underneath and saw the writing on the backbox! As long as the diameter of piping is kept a reasonable size, exhausts shouldn't be boomy. The problem with stainless exhausts is that they are made from thinner metal as the manufacturer doesn't need to worry about them rusting through, and as such they inherently generate more noise. I can't comment on the loudness of my powerflow though as I have no carpets or 'proofing in Ron at the mo!

Yeah, definitely worth checking, that came out on my golf! :shock: :shock: The steering wheel happily span 360 degrees! Luckily it was just in the footwell. I will check that today at some point. When I put it back in on my golf, i used some thread lock which seemed to do the trick. Looks like I might have a spare rebuilt rack then! ha ha. Cheers.

I sheared a wishbone bolt in half with my man-strength (grrrrrrr), and then moved my car back onto the driveway...via the ring-road.... uh, TWO laps of the ring-road. I'm Jon, and I'm an addict. *group welcomes Jon*

:shock: :shock: :shock: I feel corrupted.

new exhausts slide together way better than old exhausts slide apart! :lol: keep us informed. Monkkeeeyyeeyeyeyeee. e.

Yeah good manifolds cost a bit, but are worth their weight! To get the rear axle off, there is 4 bolts holding the beam to the floorpan through a plate on either side (2 bolts each), then you'd need to undo all the brake lines and handbrake cables, plus the top rear suspension mounts.... anything I've missed people? But... the much easier way is to just take each part of the exhaust off in sections and rebuild it in sections also, leaving the rear beam hassle out! ^ that's how I did my golf one.

In theory, you should be able to take it all apart, I mean it is designed like that, but every single one i've ever seen is rusted / heat welded together. If it is that join, I'd recommend sourcing a new manifold and downpipe, or even better SIX-BRANCH :D

LOLZZZ!!11111one. Yeah ditto again really, rusty panels aren't worth tarting esp as you have some koscher doors and a gate lined up :D

Ah thanks coolrado, some quality tips there! Toad, why do TBs get manky on the inside? I can understand how carbs would as they obviously are in contact with petrol too, but TBs are "upstream" of the injectors so to speak! I agree wholeheartedly though, the one on Ron is foul.

:lol: I am being calm today mate! Just have to remember to set the guns to 1/2 power next time I beef something with a 2' breaker bar! Hoping remains of bolt will drill out, as this is a perfectly good spare subframe for the 16v or G60.

Yeah, i'd replace all the removable panels that need replacing (if you're a perfectionist that'd be both doors, tailgate and both bumpers) but if the bumpers are ok you will prob get away with a respray. If the doors and tailgate are rusty, there's no point getting someone to patch them IMHO, especially as you have found some excellent condition donor ones. You could always take the new tailgate and doors with you when you get the work done, and just ask the guy to swap them over. Shouldn't take too long to do, and you could always swap the locks over by yourself afterwards (providing the doors come with locks and you have the key!) 2p.

Give Browden Motors a ring, they're big VW people, always took care of my family's numerous dubs before I moved away to uni.

if the revs drop when you pull the pedal back up with your foot you need to try adjusting and lubing the cable, or if the cable still doesnt return back all the way you may need a new throttle cable or rubber grommet that the throttle cable hooks into on the pedal end, the throttle should spring back until it stops when you take your foot off the pedal and there should be a little bit of slack in the cable. Yeah possibly... coulde be gunk in the spring mech on the TB though. I know mine definitely does this, as when you change gear the needle doesn't drop straight away as the gunk on the TB is not allowing the spring to operate properly.

@ Mods: :thumb right: