boost monkey

LOL, those last 3 posts are so confusing! rear bearings are a DIY job if you ask me, as mentioned get a decent manual and away you go!

what are these 'mills' you are on about? I haven't come across them anywhere! And yes, there's at least 20kV coming out of the coil on the VW engine. And yes, as already stated it's the amps that will kill you. I've taken a shock from a faulty HT lead, it kinda stings for a second but that's it. hth, Jon.

I have the sykes key, it's awesome. you'll need a ball joint removal tool for the hubs possibly, if they're really stuck into the hubs?

@ 3corsameal, I'm not sure if you're getting 10kboost confused with octane booster or something, but it isn't supposed to make a noticable difference in performance. I've used it on a number of old cars and it's pretty much good for removing carbon deposits whichy make the car run on, and also reduce economy and efficiency. Performance never changed imo, but my mpg extra urban went up by 3-5 depending on car, age, and engine.

Is anyone else finding the OP hard to read? :( I get the gist of it, but the sentences don't actually make sense.

Is 600 miles enough to run an engine in? I would have thought almost double that would be better :? For more low down grunt, inprove the airflow: Ported head, manifolds*, better air filter etc. *If you port the exhaust side of the head or exhaust manifold, leave a small lip (percentage of port diameter) between the two as this helps the exhaust gases flow and promotes 'swirl' out of the combustion chamber. Andy665, what diameter is the big bore downpipe?

No, that's right. Gases move faster when they're hotter, so by insulating the exhaust manifold you are keeping the exhaust system hotter and as such the gases will flow quicker, which could well mean they leave the cylinder head quicker too. But that's a theory. Has anyone heard about waterproofing / painting manifold before wrapping? Heard a few horror stories about mild steel items collecting water/condensation and then promoting rust in these water collecting spots. J

I see. do you run gay pipes? any engine bay shots? what is a twin inlet charger anywho?

Have intentionally left out anything which makes changes past just replacing pipes, i.e. REAL engineering stuff as this is literally just my musings from lunch. Would be fun though, wouldn't it? 8)

Reduce heat in the boost pipework: Change the route they take - rerouting boost pipes away from the larger hot spots under the bonnet (i.e. engine itself (as much as possible) radiator especially when fan is on) Tricky to implement as pipes are made of thermosetting plastic and as such are not ductile. They have been moulded to shape as a factory part and can not be bent without the risk of fracture. Replacement pipes possible but expensive. Reduce thermal conduction - reducing the amount of heat the boost pipes absorb will reduce intake air temps which will increase charge density into engine inlet. Fairly simple to improve. Factory pipes can be coated or painted with heat resistant or reflective materials to reduce 'heat soak' into pipework. Recommended VHT paint in white or silver (plastic primer possibly required). Could heatwrap pipework with metal foil which would reflect heat back into engine bay. Replacement pipes possible but expensive. Reduce heat in inlet manifold: Reduce thermal conduction - reducing the amount of heat the manifold absorbs will reduce intake air temps which will increase charge density into engine. Phenolic inlet manifold gaskets: Resists cylinder head temperature conducting into the manifold. As a result, the air temp sensor will run cooler and you will have cooler air going into the ports. Available from G-Werks, £call. Spacer plate between manifolds: Helps keep the exhaust manifold radiating heat into the inlet, causing extreme heat soak and intake temps upwards of 50deg C. DIY job, probably use some ally plating (3mm) to shroud the exhaust manifold. *Potential VW standard part from another car here…* Lag inlet / exhaust / both manifolds: Lagging manifolds helps to keep their heat in (or out as the case may be). Lagging available from many shops, £call. With regards to the exhaust manifold, lagging this would help the excavation of exhaust gases from the combustion chambers on each cycle as hotter gases move quicker than slower ones. By keeping the exhausts heat inside the exhaust system and not radiating out into the engine bay some gains are to be made, although doubtful whether they will be noticed or not. Increase efficiency of Standard Intercooler: Standard checking and servicing of intercooler is crucial to maintain its peak (standard) possible performance. Ensuring jubilee clips are tight, and pipes have not deteriorated is a good place to start. Checking internals of IC also possible but the presence of foreign objects inside it would point to a problem elsewhere in the intake system. That's about it really, just some lunchtime thoughts on how to improve the standard parts with a view on reducing heat and increasing performance with only a small outlay for parts. Anything incorrect, feel free to mention! J

^ if you mean the cowling, it's bolted to the rad in each corner.

Um, no .. http://www.sensorland.com/HowPage060.html .. they rely on the heating and sensing components in the assembly being perfectly clean and intact. It's usually oil contamination that kills a MAF.[/quote:28c6c] Oh. Ok cool. I think I had quite a rudimentary one on the Motronic 4.1 system

I feel your pain. I cut and waxed the jetta yesterday. Came up so shiny...but also showed probably a hundred spots in all where there's either a stone chip, a small rust spot or a touch up donw with NOT atlas grey!! :( Metallic paint is so fickle... I am inches away from matting it.

I'm not sure why MAFs break so often. Aren't they just a glorified spring and a flap?

Yeah good idea to save space, but you will be only be sucking air through a small section of the radiator, that is, the circle directly in front of it. The cowling is designed to mount the fan at a certain distance away from the radiator itself so that it can suck air through the radiator from directly in front of the blades, plus use the cowling shape to channel air through the corners of the radiator too. I imagine it like this: Using a funnel to pour water into a bottle (the funnel being the cowling here) or using a straw to pour water in. Yeah, the straw will work but it only has a small area in which it is effective. The water will splash around the outside of the bottle and not get used properly in this case... Hmm, now I read it back, this metaphor might be confusing! I can only see one fan, but I guess you might have two?

A20_Lee, yeah Awesome are good, sucksthat you had problems with yours though :/ Agreed that no engine is perfect: there will always be engines that someone is finishing on a friday night that aren't quite put together how they should be :(

:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: BEST CAR EVAR!!! I had sooooooooooo planned to do this to a biege mk2 polo, but with a KR!!! Was told that the mk2 polos don't handle so I gave up....what's yours like?

Yeah, well scary. A new Cooper once flipped over a house! probs still on the news site somewhere. This can all be explained with physics and various mechanics equations that I'm sure some of you will be familiar with. I mean, we don't know how fast he was going, how far the house is from the kerb (i'm assuming a kerb launched him this high) and at what angle said kerb was impacted. Man, this is good practice in non-term time! :lol:

Yeah, heard about plastic water impeller blades and turbo pipes collapsing...did you not get these uprated? Plus, who did your work? I'd like to avoid them! :D (jokes)

it is hard to generalise a topic such a this when there is so much to write about! In general, I'd say that 100hp per litre in a turbo engine and 70-80hp per litre in a n/a engine were a good tune. Anything under can be improived upon (with no dount some exceptions!)

does the corrado have 2 oil pressure buzzers like the old golfs had? not sure which one comes on at 3200rpm, probs the first one i'd imagined if it revs up to 6000rpm.

imo, VW engines are way underuned as standard so it's not surprising. plus with a turbo, 50hp is almost as easy as a flick of a switch, generally speaking.

if it smokes all the time it would prb be an oil seal somewhere. if it smokes just on startup, it is more likely to be valve stem seals. if it just does it under accelerating...umm....help anyone?

aaah cam chain, I remember now! my bad :/ does sound like bearings too, that's how my KR died.

summary please, ICBA with 32 pages!! Is it the same J reg as on the first page? :lol: