boost monkey

soz, forgot to add the Lader isn't run in since it's rebuild yet, some 200 something miles to go until WOT can occur! :(

CazzaVR, Prodigal is in france all week although the G-siddy is still outside (under my supervision?) G didn't get clued in until recently, I think there were sparks after the G werks trip! :shock:

I've run in a brand new valver (new shiny vearings and seals absolutely everywhere) for 1000 miles at half-throttle and less than 3000rpm. Was perfect after that, never had any probs at all, snapped the needle round to the limit in 5th....up a hill....with 2 passengers.

ha ha yeah! IIRC, the std head doesn't flow well enough to use 45s on it, but 40s fuel quite nicely (obviously with the correct jetting and setup) J

yeah, that makes sense. check the calipers. only thing that comes to mind for black smoke is from the tyres...did you lock them up when you came to a halt?

I don't believe for one second that the K-jet system and bendy inlet manifold on a stock 9A/KR flows exactly the same as a set of twin carbs. The airflow alone is dramatically increased (whether it is hot or not)due to the fact that there is one inlet per cylinder as opposed to one inlet for all 4 on the stock setup. Agreed that increased intake temps reduce charge density resulting in a loss of power, but it is quite easy to rig up a heat shroud that detours the radiator airflow with fan on down and past the intake for carbs. Literally just a sheet of metal attached to slam panel and angled downwards towards the block. very true. There's a few peeps on CGTI who are getting good power out of the K-Jet. Even though it's old and mechanical, it can be tweaked quite well and can def make over 200hp as David says. I'd say finding people willing to set up carbs is easier than finding those who can! definitely agreed on carb icing though: As petrol is a solvent, it evaporates at room temperature. As external ambient temperatures drop, the solvent part of the petrol evaporates leaving the water to glaze the carbs surfaces and when the temperature is low enough it turns to ice. The petrol keeps evaporating and the ice keeps building up so that the inlet diameter gets smaller and smaller and the engine starts getting choked. That's why, for sake of an example, my 8v carb jetta engine has a heated inlet manifold (coolant flows through it) so that the carb is always running slightly warm to stop this from happening. ^^ feel free to corect this anybody. Yeah completely. Carbs are affected way more by ambient temperature (and air density) so ideally need setting up at least every summer (low air density) and winter (high air density) because they are mechanical and as such don't adjust as ITBs with a air flow sensor etc would do. Hope this helps any, Jon :)

lol Junkie, excuse my bro. He is new to the way of engine conversions etc! if power / torque generation of each pulley is linearly proportional to it's diameter, we should be able to calculate what torque each pulley would give in any application, there will be an equation for it. It's science :lol:

^lol you'd put them in a 6spd housing! means you might lose a big ot turning lock-to-lock though due to the longer gearbox casing. I think.

good work! they're horrid to do aren't they? Had to do the wishbone on the jetta about a year ago! almost forgot to put in that little metal tube...oops...

Yeah, 20mph/1000rpm is standard fare for final drives from what i've had. The jetta has a long box in too, denoted 4 + E (Economy...or ExTrEmE Top End Ownership as I call it) where 4th is 20mph/1000rpm and 5th is 25mph/1000rpm. Maybe it's a trait of the 8v gearboxes: being longer geared as the engines generate more torque / power lower down? Back on topic, you would get a better top end from the g60 box on a valver as 5th is longer, so you'd do 100mph at 4000rpm etc :D hope this helps, 80057.

Wow. Fair play, maybe I should stop playing with 80s cars and their extra 5-10 years of rust! How strange that a early corrados top mounts are so much different to a Jetta 8v (1990) and an Audi 80 (1992?), maybe the rrados have mk3 top mounts on them?

G60 5th is pretty long imho; 25mph/1000rpm is longer than most other cars i've driven. I guess you could make it longer, just remember to shift to 4th to get by someone!

That worked?! :shock: :shock: :shock: Either you are _seriously_ beef or your top mount bolts were dangerously loose imo!

I'm intrigued as to what made you try this? The two engines make their power at completely different sections of the rev range, and their gearboxes are adjusted to suit!

^^^ ditto all of that.

Did you know that if you tighten your belt up to the correct spec, you should hear it whine at a specific engine rpm? :)

Ah ok, ALS explains a lot! That car is so cool. I'd love a fwd 10sec car! :D

There are so many opinions in this thread it is a complete joke trying to compare! I like the KR though, another fave engine include the XU9J4, aka Peugeot's late 80s 16v. VR6s do take the biscuit for me too though, lovely sounding :D

Me, pure and simple. Well, simple at least!

I think Ferrari [road cars] have been the key pioneers in this area with their underfloor sculpting, proving you don't actually need aerodynamic 'aids' on top if you get the bit underneath right! Very true. Plus you're lowering the centre of gravity if you add plating etc to the inderside. It's a win-win! :lol: Awesome engineering debate :D :D :D

^^^ sorry, thought all early 90 VAG suspension was similar, so last post may be obsolete O_o

Myself and Prodigal used the following when doing suspension on the late Audi plus my old valver: 7mm Sykes allen key (looks like a gian L with a rubber handle, available from Halfords 22mm drop ring spanner (for clearing turret) with some scaffolding on the end to get leverage up to approx 1m. you'll have to twist them in opposite directions or get someone to hold the allen key whilst the spanner+scaffolding is turning. a socket would be amazing.... if I could have found one with a hex external drive... all mine are round, hence no grip for turning externally (and you can't use a ratchet cos you need to put the allen key down the middle!) spring compressors also needed. with regards the thin metally bit, we used needle noses but it was a super PITA to do. Special tool recommended here. Or a faaaat feeler guage :D

If they can make 20-25 a year (say 24) which is 2 a month, and they have a 9mth waiting list... doesn't that mean that they've got only 18 people who want one?* They weren't all that as cars go hence making less than 10,000. *slighty tongue in cheek!

Even if the difference is negligible, the active spoiler will be making a difference. You can't change the shape of an object moving through fluid (in this case, air) and say that there is no change in it's trajectory or velocity if the force that is pushing it is constant? afaik, most of those cars are RWD (not sure about Chrysler thing!) so they will benefit from a much larger downforce over the driving wheels. I appreciate what you are saying about the distance at which the spoilers are from the chassis, but without aerodynamic charts or even wind tunnel data I can't really confirm or deny that the spoiler does what it was designed to or not. Agree with the absurdity of comparing to Porsches and F1 cars though! In summary, I would think that for the majority of corrado drivers, the spoiler probably doesn't do anything noticable.

Ha ha no probs, I know some but deffo not all thermo d! Hope the new oil pump sees years more corrado'ing!