TimDoc

i know i know, but the rado isnt mended yet so it'll prob set itself on fire!!!

thanks supercharged - will get this done this weekend! In the meantime - lifts to work in the aygo please wifey!!

Shocker?! Got in the car yesterday to go to work, turned on the ignition, no probs and pulled away up hill. Suddenly a puff of black acrid smoke comes out of the vent hole above the headlights switch! Immediately turned off the engine and opened the door, the wind then fanned whatever was burning so I closed the door and sat there holding my breath thinking what the hell to do - was the car about to burst into flames?! Had to move the car as it was in the middle of the road, so re-started and v speedily moved it off the road, immediately got out and closed the door and got the extinguisher out of the boot and stood and watched. The smoke died down and the car was ok. Now getting lifts from the Mrs to work until the w/e. Right... any ideas peops?? Any wiring behind that area other than headlights etc?? Anyone else had this happen?? I dont dare start the car until i have taken that part of the dash out and can see whats smoking. Suggestions/comments appreciated! PS. Have got the number for a good auto-electrician but dont want to have to spend the cash! Tim

i think you might get annoyed with having to look down at the sat nav and then back up out of the screen, takes your eyes off the road quite a lot! I had one low down in the car and found this was the case. Tim

find someone with vagcom, it'll save you money in the long run, you wont go replacing stuff you dont need to.

what does ecu relay 109 do?? Would it show up on VagCom if something was wrong with it??

Driving along the other day, car had been running for around 10 mins, had driven only about 2 miles, warm weather. Doing around 25mph and suddenly the car lost power, and the engine started running really lumpy! It then promptly stalled (with me in the right hand lane and nowhere to pull over to!). Turned the engine over with the ignition, and it would run like a bag of nails for a couple of mins and then stall again. By this time, getting beeped at lots so did something hideous and moved the car on a bit further and off the road using the starter motor. Popped the bonnet, and had a good look, no leaks, no loose connections, couldn't find a cause? Got back in the car after about 10mins and turned it over, it ran slightly lumpy and then smoothed out and went fine. No probs since. Prior to this i had just replaced the MAF and the hall sensor (cam position sensor) and had run vagcom prior to replacing these with only error coded on the hall sensor showing. Car has run smoothly since (2 weeks ago), just wondered if anyone had any bright ideas as to what this could have been and whether i need to check/do anything. Open to all ideas/suggestion. Tim

thanks for the speedy reply Sensor to be changed tomorrow Tim

Anyone shed any light on these fault codes I just picked up on my Corrado VR6?? Anything to worry about? Address 01 ------------------------------------------------------- Controller: 021 906 258 AG Component: MOTOR PMC 1 Coding: 0261203109 Shop #: 1267357531 2 Faults Found: 00515 - Camshaft Position (Hall) Sensor (G40) 30-00 - Open or Short to B+ 00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) 03-00 - No Signal Readiness: N/A thanks Tim

anyone got any ideas?

Just changed the radiator as it was hosing coolant all over the engine bay - prob from a rouge stone. Cleaned the engine bay, went on a long run to cornwall and back, and noticed that there is again some coolant leakage sat on the slam panel. Not obvious where it came from. Took it to a chap locally who is clued up on it and he had a look in the engine bay - whilst there he commented on how highly pressurised the coolant system was. Also, despite changing all of the oil, filters, plugs and coolant. The car will still run up to oil temp of around 118 on occasions. There are no engine mods to account for this. Also just replaced the MAF in the last few days for other reasons. Any advice welcome and appreciated Tim

twofourteen - this might work: get a knife or suitably strong flat implement and sit inside the car, put the knife infront of the mech and pull forcibly backwards - it will close suddenly and trap the knife so make sure its not in too far. This should close the roof and sort the wet interior problem. Then you prob need to replace the rocker and the slider on which it is mounted. If the piece that the bushed wire is attached to has snapped, then that needs replacing too - but it is prob cheaper to get a second hand sunroof of ebay or from a scrappy to get that bit. The tricky part is lining it all up afterwards so it doesnt judder when closing Choose your parts distributor carefully, as some will tell you there is only the option of the sunroof repair kit, others will sell you the individual parts. Give me a shout if you need any help, or if what i have told you is absolute tosh?! Tim

Cheers guys, was suspicious that might have been where it was. Thanks for the confirmation. Tim

Need to run some diagnostics, my mate has a licence and a lead, and need to plug into the car, anyone know where to do so?? Thanks Tim

thanks guys, most helpful Tim

Anyone tell me if there are any quick ways, or does the front bumper and upper piece need to come off???? Mid process so any speedy replies would be appreciated Tim

Very impressive work going on!!! Reading your comments, i know where your coming from, when you re-trim your own interior and you can see all the imperfections that no-one else can. Looking at the pics, youve done an awesome job. I'm onto my second interior?! Was cream, now black with red stitch. Your front door cards look really well done compared to mine! I may have to have another go at them. Nice to see another man can use an industrial machine - and on a forum like this that gets respect! Tim

i'll have one of these please - to pay by paypal Cheers Tim

yep, there are four screws underneath that release the leather gaitor

has anyone else seen this pdf - don't think its meant to be free access - not sure if this is easily found in other places - thought i'd share my discovery - apologies if this was easily found and previously known about http://www.corrado.com.pl/elektryka/corrado94.pdf Tim

The order of events: Firstly, my drivers side wing mirror electrics became a little temperamental, this was at the same time as the driver's window started to run very slowly. The wingmirror seemed to recover, but this co-incided with both window motors completely stopping working. The current state of affairs - the windows stopped working whilst they were up - thank goodness?! If you push the up or down switches then the windows do not move at all, you can hear a click behind the right rear door card panel - this appears to be coming from some electrics there, you can also hear a click coming from the window motor, but no motor protest noises. There is no change if the engine is running and the revs are up. Can anyone help??? The car will be going into the garage for diagnostics on Tues to see if they can work it out, any help would be appreciated. Tim

yeah, i reckon so, did my first door cards around a year ago, without any foam, with leather just stuck straight to the doorcard, they looked ok, but where the seams are where you have joined the leather stands proud and doesnt look quite right, also (no disrespect) but to have made the leather to fit the doorcards exactly is quite difficult - so the foam will iron out the minor errors. Good luck Tim

PS - do the gluing outdoors

B&Q carpet spray on glue, yes you do need to remove the old skins (guessing they are cloth door cards) at least at the edges in order to get a good fit with the window seal. I removed the whole lot but i think that you could get away with just trimming them down at the edges. If you are fitting leather to the cards that you have trimmed youself i would buy some fireproof 3-4mm foam and cover the whole doorcard - it means that your leather will fit better (already done this twice!?). Good luck Tim

You can do it a day - but u have to start early in order to work out what is broken in time to get to either the scrappy or the dealers and get the necessary parts. Stealers are prob the best place for the running pieces - motors from the scrappy, and possibly cables too. Good luck Tim PS - i did mine the week after i bought the car and it is still working 1yr on!??