andycowuk

How does that wear out? I'd expect all of the early 4-cyl corrado ones and mk2 16v golf ones to be the same... not sure if the late 4-cyl corrados got the mk3 suspension or not.

I got one of these a few years ago - exhange rate was better at that point! http://www.bahnbrenner.com/vw_audi/products/483/Schrick_Cast_Aluminum_Oil_Pan_4cyl G-Werks do supply it if you want a UK seller...

I was thinking more of using the friends HT leads rather than their knowledge!

Around £25k for a new GT TSI, and £30k for a R (if you could buy one). not exactly the £40k for a basic cayman.......

suspect the exact same went on mine- I just had a panel welded on to get it through the MOT, but I would like to repair it properly. Would be great if you could take plenty pics if you do go ahead with the work... Andrew

someone is selling a set on cars for breaking... but you could try running the car and removing one at a time, to see if you can tell anything from that - remember you'll need to remove it from the distributor rather than the spark plug to remove any potential failure from the circuit - and take precautions when ****ing about with the HT circuit - probably best turned off, started again to test and then turned off, to try the next one... Obviously this will make the car run rough, but it should at least rev ok and allow you to evaluate if its a different kind of rough! You won't be able to illiminate the king lead without a replacement... Do you have any G60 owenrs local that could help you out? A

Only becuase you mention under load, my suspision is a loose manifold or a crack on it very close to the head.... I'd imagine if it was something to do with damaged valves, you' have running & starting issues, and camshaft and tappet noises are not really affected by engine load - more sensitive to RPM and temp.

when you say you have checked the leads, what have you checked? I had bahn Brenner ones on and they were fine to look at but the car ran really badly. One of them when I touched it (I was feeling brave) I could feel it pulsing... when I replaced the leads it ran perfect again. A

I went to a breakers and dismantled the interior of various golfs/polos - the guy just let me have the handfull of screw for nothing.

If you have the lower cover off, you'll need to use the flywheel to check the crank position (the marks are on the lower cover and the serpintine pulley) - stick a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole of cylinder one to find out roughly where the top is, then get it exact from the flywheel marks There are two marked teeth on the camshaft pulley that should line up either side of the top face of the cylinder head (at the rocker gasket) - the rotor arm lines up to the mark on the distributor body.

Bought the components from Maplin and soldered it myself onto Veroboard... Lambda probe signal into a voltage follower to block current, then amplfied the signal slightly, then into a LED Bargraph driver chip. You can use the LED module I used or could use individual coloured LEDs and fit them pretty much anywhere... I'm thjinking about other items as well, and I have a grand plan in my head that I might be able to sell the parts and circuit diagrams (circuit schematic and board layout) as DIY kits... do you think there would be any interest? A

could also be related to an old alarm system?

Where about are you located? I don't suppose your work is based anywhere as handy as my back garden even the kitchen? Logistically speaking that would work out well for me.

When I think about it, you can get it direct from the wurth UK office for about a tenner, plus P&P at £6 plus VAT - so about £20 a can... but that makes me sad to pay over £7 for postage. :sad: I'll give you a shout later if I want some... I'd still need you to post it to me! My mate's work has a Wurth account, so I'm seeing if he can source it for me first....

Hi.. I had a go at making my own AFR display as I didn't have any spare space for gauges... I'm quite happy with the outcome, and it cost less than £20 for the bits! What do you think!? [attach]48591[/attach] Andrew

Mine has had the sills patched a couple of MOTs ago... it has been damaged through being jacked up incorrectly over the course of its life... If you are not put off by the rust, you at least want to try to undertand why its there. If its there because of damage due to jacking/underseal/scuffing then you can have a bit more confidence that it may be localised; on the otherhand, if there are any hints of accident damage, you want to stay well clear in my opinion...

I have been trying to source this recently and don't have an alternative as yet... There are Wurth outlets dotted around the place - you might have a local one; their sales reps are actually fairly helpful so check with your local person http://www.wurth.co.uk/contact-salesman.php The specific product you want is the HHS Grease (Long life spray with PTFE) - 08931067 http://www.wurth.co.uk/cat.php?section=all&search=grease There are a few other options there, but I don't know which would be acceptable substitutes....

i'd stick the old head unit back in to rule out either the new HU or the speakers/connections...

Rocco is v good car to live with.... nice choice! I just got back in the corrado this month after over a year off the road and I'm loving it again just now though!

Monza that looks good, Jim I'll need to look at yours at home.... Do either of you have pics of how you handled the Sunvisors - hinges, the slider over the mirror on the drivers side and around the light on the passenger side? Those are the three areas that made me not do it as I couldn't picture how I would get them looking good (and the finish being durable)... Also, if you go for that paint it black, can you let us know how well it works? (including how well it performs on you beached denim as per their demo vid!) Cheers Andrew

My real one is 92 as well, but the one I talk about above is imaginary.... try this... http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/VW-Wiring.pdf

i am talking from memory, so might not be 100%.. On one connector block are the power and control lines... Blue/white is the remote - its supposed to go to 12v when the stereo is on. Yellow is the perm live Red is ignition live Brown is earth there is a dimmer one on there too The other block should then have pairs of speaker wires that sort of match ie purple and purple\white stripe for each of the 4 corners.. That is from memory - i havent been behind the head unit recently so I'd deffinatelt just get in about it with a multimeter!

I was going to do this, and was going to use 'paint it black'. I decided against it though as I couldn't think how i'd get the sun visors looking good - how are you going to do that? Let us know how you get on - plently of pics before it goes back int he car would be cool. Thanks & good luck! Andrew

Will the car run? If its not fuse related, I wonder if its the ignition switch...

yeah a 4x50 would be plenty I would think...