andycowuk

I've had my sunroof out and in bits, and have also taken a broken mk3 one appart to see what parts are the same. My observations may be of no help to anyone, but are.... The rear guides with the rocker finger on it are exactly the same The actual frames are identical, but the outlets for the drain pipes are not at the same angles - i didnt offer up the mk3 one to see if that was a problem though The middle slider thats attached to the cable on the mk3 has no control levers (that i assume are to tilt the 'letterbox' on the inside of the corrado) The front slider has a different arm/clip for pushing and pulling of the interior trim, but as I was comparing the individual parts, I'm not sure if they will still engage enough to pull the interior trim back to closed The long arms that actuate the tilt appear differnt to look at, but I think they deliver the same result

I've got one that came with a MK3 sunroof I bought to butcher... was sold to me as working, but is untested - £12 delivered? If it doesn't work I'll take it back off you for a refund (less postage). Andrew

Its been a while since I last fiddled with a 16v... but I put KR cams into a ABF not the other way around. The abf cam duration is suited to lower range torque rather than high end power, and I believe they dont have as high a lift as the KR ones.

which week in the last 25 years did it only rain one day!?!?! That's good to know - I'll look out for toledo's being broken.... anyone else got some experience with sunroof mech butchery with parts from other cars? Thanks Andrew

Thanks guys, this is a good start... The full shooting match including the frame or just the sliders/regulators? In the corrado you have a component on each side, that is forward of the rear runner to control the roof liner - its not on the Mk3, but I assume it can be added back in during assembly?

Hi All, I'm having the usual problems with the corrado sunroof - left side sticking due to a damaged rear runner.... Its all out and stripped down, and I've heard various stories about what mechanisms are compatable to put back in there, I will use my roof skin in the new mech, and I dont want the Passat moonroof conversion. I know that the cassettes/mechs for the early and late corradoas are the same, but the motors differ. So my question is - what frames and or internals could I butcher to give me a working roof again; I've heard that the internal parts in the mechanisms are the same in golf 2/3, A3, passat etc?? Thanks Andrew

Hi all, I was in Costco today and noticed they had replacement blades for the lupo wiper arms, priced at £6.50, but I also noticed they had a attachment for the hook type so bought an 18" one for the rear too, to see what like..... 07032010137.jpg[/attachment:1df5y5w7] Not quite as tidy as the welded end, but very simple!

Not posted much in ages here - hope you had a good new year all! Just thought I would share a little anecdote for you to have a laugh at.... When I put the engine back in the car in the summer, past experience told me not to rush the antifreeze, as more often than not something happens that means you have to wash the street with it to re-seal a flange or something. I did have a leak, but because I am lazy, I just kept topping up with water rather than fixing it. apparently it has been cold recently. Bad times. :cry: Managed to get it into the garage the other day, and left it there with a heater. Now it has no water in it. :epicfail: Moral of the story boys and girls - move to dubai where its nice and warm.

After going through all that I have been able to confirm that their is an intermittent fault on the gray/red cable that is near one of the A-pillars - so I need to unplug one and just see which side is damaged.

Hey, Been looking at my leccy windows as they have packed in when they got frozen shut a fortnight ago.... When they first broke, i wiggled the button and they did go down a couple of times at random, and have always gone up easily, so I suspect the control unit can't always "see" me press the down buttons. I have made a few simple checks/observations: Switched the switches around loads to eliminate faulty switch, but am convinced all three cant die together.....[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Fuse 14 is fine[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Can hear control unit click when I press up on any of the 3 buttons[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Nothing on down from any of the 3 buttons[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Central Locking works fine[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Reverse lights work[/*:m:dsfllhbo] I have dropped the fuse box down; on either side there is a pair of connectors about 4 inches in from the A pillar boot that can be split to test the switch harness and the motor harness in each door is OK - no shorting out there, so put fuse box back into place.[/*:m:dsfllhbo] So after sitting on front of the wire diagram with a load of coloured pens to help me make sense of the diagram - gave myself a test procedure for tomorrow: On each switch you have 5 wires: Pin 1 - Brown/White Pin 2 - Gray/Black Pin 3 - Drivers side control wire is green, passenger side control wire is Green/Yellow Pin 4 - Black/Blue Pin 5 - Gray/Red Pins 1 & 4 are for the switch illumination (1 is earth, 4 is 12v from ignition) so can be ignored from this point forward. You'll need to get into the drivers rear quarter to inspect the control unit. when you get there expect to see a brown and black square connector and a white D-connector. Make the following continuity checks with the ignition off (check against earth in case its shorting out)..... Brown plug, pin 1 Green/Yellow - driver side control plug on drivers door pin 3 Green/Yellow [/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 2 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 3 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 4 Green - drivers side control plug pin 3 Green[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 5 Brown/White - Pin 1 on door contact switch (going assume unrelated to problem)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 6 Gray/Black - All 3 control plugs, pin 2 Gray/Black[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 7 Gray/Red - All 3 control plugs, pin 5 gray/red[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Brown plug, pin 8 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 1 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 2 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 3 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 4 Green/White - Passenger side pin 3 Green/Yellow[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 5 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 6 Red/Yellow - Central locking (various)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 7 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Black plug, pin 8 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 1 Brown - Welded point beside fuse panel (As long as it earths, its fine - continuity between plug and chassis)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 2 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 3 - no connect[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 4 Black/Red - passenger window motor Black[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 5 Brown/Red - Passenger and drivers window motor Brown[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 6 Black - 12v between plug and earth with ignition on via fuse 14 (10A)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 7 Red - Permanent 12v from battery (+) between plug and earth via fuse 52 (20A) Located above Fuse/Relay Panel (Labeled: Central Locking System Fuse)[/*:m:dsfllhbo] White plug, pin 8 Black/Yellow - Drivers motor black[/*:m:dsfllhbo] Unlike the brown and black plugs that are odds on one side, evens on the other, the white one is numbered 1 - 4 up one side and 5 - 6 up the other. If you have broken wires then obviously they need replaced. My last test would be to try to connect the motors directly to power source on each polarity, but I doubt they both broke at the same time. If you have no problem, connect back up as a final check. All that leaves is the control module then if you still don't know. HTH Andrew

Thanks mate thats brilliant - although if i hold it upside down from you i'll get the left and right mixed up If you peel back the rubber cover the pins are numbered - either that or just tell me if the notches on the inside were up or down. Really appreciate your help :cheers: A edit to make this useful for future: Key words: G60 wire loom harness tps throttle position sensor pot connector plug

Anyone with either a g60 they can check the order of the wires in the plug behind the throttle body, or someone with the Bentley manual able to help out here? Its the last thing I need to do under the bonnet before its back on the road again! TIA Andrew

hi all! I stupidly forgot to disconnect the throttle pos ssensor when i was taking the engine out, and strangely enough the wires didn't impede the engine hoist! :epicfail: I've got new ends to put into the plug, but i need to know the order to put them in. Can someone please advise? TIA Andrew

Cheers mate! Long time no speak! I trust u r well? I've dropped a note to g-werks to see if they can help - atm I think that I have a faulty oil feed line... I'll keep u posted.

Hi All, Has anyone ever tested the oil feed line for the G60 to see how much oil flows through it? The reason I ask is that I have my engine sitting on a stand just now, having changed the sump/oil pump - I thought it would be a good idea while the timing belt was off, to spin the intermediate shaft with a drill to make sure that there were no air locks in the oil system. I did this in a couple of stages: 1) Get oil out at the sandwich plate for the cooler 2) attach the oil cooler at one end to purge the dirty oil in it 3) keep the pump spinning till there's oil up in the charger, and coming out the return Stages 1 & 2 were fine, but after a load of spinning there was nothing out of the charger, so I checked the charger end of the feed line, and it was just dripping and no more. I detached the feed line at the cylinder head and when i spun the drill up, a column of oil flowed strongly out of the head. So the new oil feed line gives almost nothing to the charger, and the old feed line gives a little bit more - but no where near enough in my opinion. It's aftermarket braided ones that I have, so i'm going to buy a genuine one this week to see how it compares - i'll update you all. Has anyone ever tested this out? Cheers Andrew

Hi, Not posted on here in a while, but have recently done something (that isnt new) that I think is worth confirming the benefit with everyone. My G60 was feeling a bit flat above 4k over the last few weeks, and I was starting to get that feeling that only corrados can give.... WTF this time.... I hadnt sprayed the charger with lube in too long, so took off the blank plate and intake and gave a good long squirt in both sides with the revs held slightly higher than idle. Went a drive after that, and its a huge improvement; the lube obviously helps the apex seals work better. Thats it. The difference is emence. Smilling from ear to ear again. HTH Andrew

*Cough* 3 long days of looking after it down.....

Just had a look on ETKA for u... 191 498 103c is an inner CV kit for KR, PG, ABV, 2E, ADY & 9A engines 191 498 099b is an outer kit for KR, PG, ABV, 2E, ADY & 9A engines 357 498 099 is an outer kit for ABV So inners appear to be the same, outers are not. HTH ;) Andrew

Spot on mate! Thanks

I havent received one thatnk god, but I was talking about this the other day. A few months ago I read on here that someone got a NIP through the post on their birthday.... if i remember rightly they were from the Midlands or Wales area, but thats kind of irrelevant. Anyway, somebody put a reply on with a script/letter format and a named law case that was basically along the lines of, I have not been officially cautioned, therefore anything I say will not be used in court as evidence against me. I just wondered if they could whack it back up. Cheers

seems like mods dont like asking questions in for sale section.... I have a complete black interior, all plastic bits, carpets door panels including speaker grills (no speakers) parcel shelf etc but don know if its best sold as one or in bits..... i am worried that if I sell the seats, i will never get rid of hte rest, so dont want to split it..... Whats sort of price should I be asking for this? I am not looking for offers on it at this stage.

been thinking about it for a while........ would loose alot if I sold it complete as the shell isnt 100% straight.

I dont have a pipe on that side.....its got a blank; that side of the boost return butterfly has air flow in it, but is efferctively as atmosphere. I dont think a boost leak would cause overfueling. The ecu considers MAP and RPM to refernnce the injector pulse width. So if you should acheive say 15psi at full chat, but because of your boost leak you only have 10psi, you car will fuel for 10 psi at that engine rpm IE cross-reference an injector pulse width lower down the fueling map. On WOT the map has fixed values, with the CO pot controling the baseline that the fueling values are reference from, for non WOT values, the map is more dynamic, with feedback from the lambda probe. The connection between the probe and hte main loom on mine was really terrible, so i stripped each of the 8 wires back and inch or so and reconnected with spades. see if you can take the shrould of the ECU wire harness, get the car running and check the voltage that the lambda pin is seeing (purple wire). low voltage represents lean to the ecu 600mV and it will flick between the two like a toggle switch. A bad connection in this part of the loom will result in a significant voltage drop over the loom connection, so that the ecu might always see 300 - 400mv less than the lambda is telling it. Also.. What value is your CO pot at? Do you know how your injectors are performing? when were they last tested? Incase you have accidently began to trust me...... I am going up to wick some time in the next 6 weeks to fix my mums husbands scirrocco.... I may well me buying a wideband lambda sensor and data logger to help with the mapping of the vsam in it.... I might be able to help you out if you can handle getting the boat across to me?

i have a crazy way to eplain my opinion..... if the rear of the car in corner was a sound.... then with poly rear bushes you get the sound of dead thud (like if u drop a piece of turf on teh ground). doomf...and it doesnt do anything else...the back end will stay the same until you straighten up. On OEM type bushes, you get a longer more dynamic sound.... like a slide whistle... where the more u turn in the more the pitch changes. The car on standard bushes basically bends so that the wheels are always pointing hte way they are travelling, the car on poly will bend less so the wheels may start to slide earlier...but that doesnt necessarly mean u will point the wrong way instantly...as long as you foot is on the gas, a fwd car should never do that..... I cant even loose the back end of my car if i try to, but it does drift slightly when I am charging round a tight fast corner... like a big round about, or tight slip road. I couldnt change back to OE if you paid me. Also.... this has been talked to death...cant u search on it?

what compression ratio will that be running?