andycowuk

i havent got any dynamat in... i was going for a budget stereo install.... got 2 vibe vp amps, a vibe 10 inch sub in a bandpass box, infinity compo's and a set of mb quart 6x4's for the rear.... cost £160! ... and dont plan spending another penny! the head is a jvc kdsh909r

that is puley central! Looks really good - always liek to see 16v g60's What sort of pistons did u use/how did you lower the compresion ratio?

Steve, I have been loking for faults on my car for some time, as it still doesnt feel *that* alive 100% of the time. On good friday I had the ecu loom appart and checked all earths and sender wires going to it (with the exception of pins 1,2,3,16,17,20,21,23,24 as they are no connects or dont terminate in the engine bay) and everything was good. Today, I finally remembered to check the blue temp sender's effect on the ISV when the engine was warm. With everything connected, the engine off, and the ignition on, I can feel the ISV hum and just under every second it pulses. If i disconnect my BTS, then the pulses turns to clicks. Do you see these two different stages? Can anyone else confirm if this is how their ISV behaves? Cheers

i had a play with the graphic equaliser in the head unit, which i dont normally do....and if I am super critical mine is also a little lacking in the 400Hz band, however this is only on some CDs - for example bleach by nirvana. If however i play something a bit more recent, like idiot america then its fine. In all cases, i cant help thinking i wish i could turn down the volume on the tweeters.

I just did the same, except using a vibe 2x100 amp and infinity kappa 5.25 inch speaks. I have to say thin mine is great, with the exception that the tweeters are too in- my-face. What are the cut off frequencies of the low pass filter for the sub, and the high pass filter for the components? Is there a gap?

Hi mate...... have i seen you about? What part of Edinburgh are you in? Are you wanting stock, or uprated mounts? GSF is the place most people go for them. Or if you are going to get uprated ones, you have missed mine, but you could try g-werks or pitstop to see if they have any. Leon just bought a set of three, uprated front and std rears, give him a shout to find out the prices.

I have been playing with my car over the weekend, I noticed that on the live feed to the ignition coil there is a decoupling capacitor. The connections were really bad, so I sorted it..... i never had any trouble with noise suppression, and I dont know if the vr6 has this part, but its worth a look.

i didnt realise they had a common earth, so thats probably not gonna reveal much.

are you able to check the potential difference between your head unit ground and your stereo ground? See if you have a groud loop. This can cause a hum as you r audio equipment have two different reference points.

how very astute of you grim! ;)

I have found space for 4!..... Takes hours of filing the plastic to get it sitting right tho!

Something that people dont realise, and its difficult to understand, is that when an engine is running lean, the car is also prone to back firing (Hotter exhuast gases meeting oxygen) that said it may well be over fueling. The afr isnt acurate enough to tell you the difference between spot on, and a bit off. It can only differentiate between ok, and awful. Good luck getting the power back!

on my g60 i have the vr6 rear sections with the oval tail..... .... i dont want to swap tho.... just that it will go straight on your system.

i will be using standard vw mounts for the other two....but i will look into mk2 deisel mounts to see if they are a bit tougher......

know how you feel - I broke my drivers door handle (again) and now the car goes like stink!

change your gearbox oil...that noise is probably from the differential in your gearbox... with abit of luck, the oil change will solve it before anything gets bad.

another optoin that has crossed my mind is to brake it.

match, petrol, insurance claim. thats about it really.

to make sure its comfortable, and enjoying its trip?

While I would assume that the sns chip gives you a good map, and the car is set up correctly, so that you wont be pinking, ultimately that does not effect the boost bleeding scenario. The MAP sensor is not replaced when the fuel map chip is changed.

yeah, you got it mate. no probs for late reply...... thanks for late night reading :lol:

flick the switch, it wipes.... turn off then wait till u r ready, then back on..... the interval is set......

The sender is a float on an arm, sort of like the thing in the bog that stops the systern over flowing...... the float/arm/potentiometer can be adjusted to read 0 correctly with a small screw driver. Just lift the lid on the tank and take a look... its pretty obvious once you are in there. I set mine when I change the fuel pump, and its about right, I put about £55-£57 pounds worth in when the needle hits the end of the white at the bottom of the red!!!

yes, its a stock pulley. Last time it was on the rollers, the gas analyser said lean up to about 4k, changing to rich up top - most probable cause for this is digilag. I have an afr gauge in the car, and it indicates that things are ok......

good try kev, but i been there already.....new dizzy I dont know about the data logging, but its std chip thats in.