wormy

If you have aftermarket rear lights, they can leak. I put mine under the spring and saw where it was leaking, then I put some silicone-like glue there.. Fixed it for me.

23 (24 in a few weeks), had it for 5 years. Now it's a undergoing a haldex-conversion.. :)

No photos available at the moment, sorry.. But I'll try to answer. I think I'd go for a 16V distributor that fits in the cylinder head - and block of the G60 one that fits in the block. IIRC (I'm not 100% sure!) you also need a 16V intermediate shaft and 16v oil pump. For the pulleys - the 16V timing pulleys are wider, so you need spacers - or replace the pulleys/pumps with 16v units. BBM sold the spacers separately before, but I can't find them on their site anymore. By the time you are done, I think it'd be cheaper and easier to try to source a complete 1.8L KR engine (or PL, but they have lazy camshafts), and just replace the pistons/rods with S2 units - instead of trying to "modify" the PG block to fit the 16V head? Unless you have special reasons for using the PG though.. :-) From my experience - most PG blocks have bores that are totally out of specc anyway - I've even had piston slap in one engine! They'd need a re-bore, so the S2 pistons won't fit.. :-\

The PG pistons have the combustion chamber in the pistons (dome - refered to as "depth" in your data?). The 16V and S2 has it in the heads, so there's less dome (depth?) S2 rods/pistons + engine block with the right bore (stock PG f.ex.) and KR/PL/ABF head is iirc a very successful combo.

The bearing caps are unique to the head, as they are line bored/honed after being installed.. :(

As owen said, I'd take compression test on it.. Leaky injectors could also do this, so might be worth a check also.. Can't see how the ECU does this..?

It's screwed in, should be able to undo it fairly easily if needed. Not sure if it's available or not.. :\

Yeah, it is a cooling pipe. The reason for cooling it, is that the power steering fluid is compressed quite a bit by the pump - up to 80-100 bar or so(?) - and that creates a bit of heat. :)

Yeah, done them about 1-2 years ago.. I remember struggeling a bit, but can't really remember what I did.. Think I installed the thin dust-seals into the calipers first, then lubed up the pistons so they can somehow be squished past.. It's a tight fit! The big one goes into the groove in the pistons iirc? Do you have some pictures to refresh my memory? I kinda only have this.. :-(

Yeah, that.. Most pictures of destroyed Rota's I've seen are from drift-cars.. Probably after going sideways into a curb or something.. :)

Yup, that's what I did on my first engine also.. It's the head that keeps it tight, the threads themselves should unscrew once the head is off.. :-)

Crank pulley: Use a socket on the big bolt in the middle to hold it tight, while undoing the 6mm allen-bolts.. Waterpump pulley: Hold it tight using f.ex. the old belt, a big plier (oil filter plier?), or poke a screwdriver through the pulley (can't remember if it works on this one..)

Check if the bush is spinning also.. I've had that on mine.. The bolt had binded to the bush :-(

Go for a stock G60 one... As long as it's metal it should be fine.

Yeah, same. Seems fine to me - nothing very obvious wrong atleast :)

Thanks for the reply, I totally understand. I know a few people in the UK, but none that can do that sort of work unfortunaly. I could possibly get it shipped up here, but then it'd be probably cheaper (atleast alot less work) to source a local car. Syncros up here are badly overpriced, but guess I don't really have that much of a choice.. Might try to fabricate what I need myself also, time will show.. ;)

I had a twin inlet (a second intake filter instead of the blanking plate you got), and nothing on the other end - i left it open. If you want a filter, they have it f.ex. here; http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/breather-filters/kn-filters-breather-filter The 44mm version

It can stay open - or you can fit a KN-filter. The hole is ~44mm in diameter iirc. No matter what you do, don't block it! It'll make some noises though, some like them, some don't. At idle and part-throttle, all the un-needed boost will be blown out of the hole, so there's no chance anything can enter. At full throttle, the boost-return is closed, so nothing can enter. Here's my old engine, revving it.. Sound when driving..

Take of the blanking plate, and spray in at idle - that's what I was told - and what I did. 3x 1 seconds bursts at idle iirc. Anyone that can confirm? :)

I've run a twin inlet kit for a good while now (removes the boost-return, so sort of the same in that sense).. I spray the charger with the spray about once a month or so, and never had any problems.. Is it Würth HHS grease you've got?

I dunno if this is "after the book", but my method was to just empty out the old coolant (bottom radiator hose), then put the garden hose into the expansion tank and keep the water flowing until clear water comes out in the other end.. Then, put the hose(s) back on, fill the car up with coolant+water, and you're good to go.. If you're considering replacing the radiator fan switch, I'd recommend doing that at the same time, seing as it sits quite low on the radiator itself. ;)

I emptied the system and put the garden-hose into the reservoar, until only clean water came out.. I can't remember how the coolant "flows", but iirc I managed to get both the engine block and the rad flushed.. (Been a while since I did it..) If you're flushing, I'd go for the "new stuff", G12 / pink.

Could be worth a shot to clean the rad also (garden hose from inside the engine-bay, to clear out the crud on the front of the rad).. Also maybe a flush of the coolant-system? Doing those two things gave me a huge drop in coolant temperature.. :-) (Of course also check the rad switch as suggested)

I'd be extremly interested in the Syncro fuel-tank, complete boot-floor (incl. mounting points for the diff) and prop-shaft.. If you ever decicde to part out the car. To be honest, I'd pay the £500 you want for the car just for those parts, if you could remove them and prepare them for collection.. (Can't really do it myself, as I live up in Norway..) I know it's a shame to cut up a Syncro, but I feel I have to ask.. :)

I have one, but never really tried the logging-functionality.. And now that the car is in molecules, it's kinda hard to try.. :-( A friend of mine have one aswell, and iirc he had problems with getting it to run with the Digifant using the narrowband emulation.. ... Just checked our old MSN-conversation-log.. And yup, his problems was more or less sorted with installing a normal o2 sensor aswell. He didn't get the emulation to work.. So he's using the original lambda for the ECU, and the wideband just for the gauge.. My theory is that the ECU senses that there's no connection on the heating-wires for the oxygen sensor, and then ignores it..? Or maybe the emulated signal isn't "accepted"..? Iirc the emulated signal has a more "wide" curve then the original o2 sensor curve? Hope that helps.. :scratch: